Intermittent No Starts: Check Engine And Efi-314

tolian2 · Post by **tolian2** » 10 May 2011, 14:51

97 854GLT 127K miles. Recent purchase = going over some annoying things.

new camshaft and crankshaft position sensors from the shop that sold me the car.
his usually happens when car is still warm.
For instance, today i idled it to check for leaks from the outlet transmission cooling line i attempted to fix.
I shut down the car after it reached normal operating temperature and then tried to start it after, say, a few minutes.
First it cranked, but not started.
Next attempt cranked, not started, and gave a 3-1-4 code.
Finally on third attempt it started, but died right away.

It did restart after sitting for a while.
then it started just fine warm on a few attempts.

gilhuly · Post by **gilhuly** » 10 May 2011, 15:20

Coolant temp sensor can die in the "engine is cold" status and cause hard or impossible warm starts. Too rich. If you have a warm no start, pull the fuel pump fuse and try to start the car. If it starts and then dies (of course) then it is definitely too rich as the cause and will almost definitely be cured with a new coolant temp sensor.

tolian2 · Post by **tolian2** » 10 May 2011, 15:27

Ok, good point about ECT sensor. Although I have checked the sensor via ELM-obd2 interface and it seems to work.
But what about the camshaft position code coming up?

Post by **VCA** » 10 May 2011, 17:37

tolian2 wrote:But what about the camshaft position code coming up?

My suspicion, given that it was changed already is bad ground or bad cabling. With the key off (wait 5 minutes before you check this), pull the CMP connector, get a multimeter, set it in ohms, and check between pin 1 (rightmost pin when you're looking at the connector with the clip on top) and a ground. It should be zero ohms. Assuming that's good, turn the ignition on and check between pin 3 (leftmost pin) and ground, should be battery voltage; check between 1 and 3, should be battery voltage. Let us know if all of these check out.