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More Power steering problems

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Replace S70 Speakers -- How To
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DCintraining
Posts: 33
Joined: 2 July 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Upstate New York

More Power steering problems

Post by DCintraining »

Hi All,

We were having a steering problem on our 1993 850GLT with 193K miles. When turning left or right at about 15 degrees the steering would bind up until you used enough force and then it would let go and you would oversteer into the next lane. Very unsettling. I took the car to my local shop who diagnosed the problem as a bad steering rack which we replaced with a rebuit unit.

We got the car back and we still had binding problems. This time the wheel was binding up inconsistantly, sometimes it would bind up at 5 degrees then 15 degrees or sometimes not at all. The longer you drove it, the worse it would become. Took the car back to the shop and replaced the power steering pump with a rebuilt unit. Got the car back and the binding is not as bad, but it is definately still there. Very frustrating.

At this point I don't know what else to replace. My wife and I are both Graduate Students so I can't keep throwing money at the car (even though I love it) .

A friend thought that the high pressure line might have one way check valves that are bad. Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks!

Eoin

Guest

Post by Guest »

I have the same problem as you where the steering goes from easy to hard and back to easy again while turning it. I haven't changed anything yet but i'm anxious too see any suggestion too.

Guest

Post by Guest »

Replace steering u-joint or knuckle, between rack and column. Part is about $125.00 at dealership here in NJ, USA. Best to do this job on a lift as the subframe needs to be loosened in the front and lowered in the rear. Also a good time to change out anti-roll bar bushings as they are probably shot and causing a lot of that clunking you can't really track down. Get the IPD stuff. Been there, done that.

DCintraining
Posts: 33
Joined: 2 July 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Upstate New York

Post by DCintraining »

Thanks for the advice. The funny thing is that the shop that replaced the rack checked the lower steering knuckle and they said that it was moving freely. Under load would it behave differently then when it is manipulated off the rack?

We also replaced the front sway bar bushings and the links which did tighten up the front end some what.

Thanks,

Eoin

Guest

Post by Guest »

Yea, mechanical componants can throw you some strange curve balls when trying to diagnose; in my case, my steering went "bad" when the temperature dropped to about 30 f, the colder it got, the worse it became. I "knew" it was the pump; changed both fluid and the pump. No difference.
Turns out the knuckle, which has to work in two planes, was very stiff one direction, ok the other. Now I love to drive it again. By the way, this happened at 285,000 miles, now 298,000. This car will not die.
Mitch.

DCintraining
Posts: 33
Joined: 2 July 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Upstate New York

Post by DCintraining »

Thanks Mitch,

I'm going to check out that U-Joint. There is only one site online that I can find it for sale and it's only $10 less than the dealer.

Anyone else have any recommendations where to buy it discount? I'm a broke grad student, so every buck counts!

Eoin

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