I have a 1994 Volvo 850 Turbo. The horn won't shut off! I remove the fuse, however that also operates the windshield wipers. Of course it would rain today!
Does anyone know how to disable the horns themselves?
HELP! HELP! HELP!
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White850Turbo
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- Location: Plano, TX
Open the hood and unplug them. This place sells a kit to repair the broken contacts.
-Sean
1995 850 Turbo (Extensively Modded)
1998 S70 T5 (Almost Stock)
1995 850 Turbo (Extensively Modded)
1998 S70 T5 (Almost Stock)
- matthew1
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- Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
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How to fix:
This has also been discussed in this forum. Search the forum for more.
from halfway down this page https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/tips.phpThis is from memory: There are I think 4 horn contacts inside the steering wheel. They go thru a metal frame and are held in place and insulated by red plastic around each contact. The contacts normally sit just below a piece of metal on the back side of the airbag, so when you push on the horn it touches at least one of those contacts and blasts the horn. This makes more sense when you see it.
In my car the plastic that holds one of the contacts in place broke and allowed the metal contact to move just enough to touch the metal frame, making a permanent circuit. Apparently this is not exactly your problem, I guess in yours the contacts completely fell out or otherwise are not where they need to be to complete the circuit. Anyway, in my car because the plastic insulator had not completely disintegrated I was able to epoxy the thing back in place. That was only last December - it still works, but I don't blow the horn very much.
Since you get a pathetic millisecond honk I bet at least one of your contacts is in good enough shape to glue back in. If on the other hand the plastic insulation is gone you have to decide how much fabricating you want to do to fix it.
If you want to take a stab at it here are the details (again from memory)
- disconnect the battery
- turn the wheel all the way to one side. There is a hole on the back of the wheel, inside there is a t-30 torx screw. Remove that.
- turn all the way to the other side. Remove torx screw.
- airbag is now loose. Unhook electrical connector and put airbag in a safe place. (I put mine on the kitchen counter while I worked. When I went back inside my 16 year old son was juggling the airbag. Really.)
- look for broken red plastic parts. I think they are on the back side of the frame, kind of hard to see.
If you do try to fix it I would test the connections with an ohmmeter before reassembling. If fact, before I started the job I poked around for a while with an ohmmeter figuring out how the whole thing works. Maybe it'll be obvious to you.
Standard disclaimer about airbags and such - you have to remove the airbag to do this job, it's up to you to decide whether you want to mess with that. I am not an expert at this stuff. The contributors who know more than I do say you shouldn't put an ohmmeter across the airbag contacts. And finally my own tidbit - don't let your torx bit roll down the steering column, you'll never find it.
And remember to have your radio code handy when you reattach the battery or you're in for a trip to the dealer.
This has also been discussed in this forum. Search the forum for more.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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Guest
V&M said:
" Of course it would rain today!.."
Ah, I see Mr. Murphy is in Iowa today! j/k
You can usually start at the source of the problem, in this case the horns (2 on mine at least right in the front under the hood) and follow the wiring back to some kind of wiring harness/disconnect plug but those plugs can be a PITA (pain in the ass) to unplug sometimes, (i.e just replaced a headlight bulb). Even if there is no disconnect, you could prbably get away with cutting the wire(s) and then simply splice the wire cover back on each side of the cut and reconnect them by twisting together and coverint the twisted exposed wireing with electrical tape by state inspection time since you won't pass it but you would probably do (solve your problem) soonest since it is nice to have a horn for those other drivers not paying attention.
" Of course it would rain today!.."
Ah, I see Mr. Murphy is in Iowa today! j/k
You can usually start at the source of the problem, in this case the horns (2 on mine at least right in the front under the hood) and follow the wiring back to some kind of wiring harness/disconnect plug but those plugs can be a PITA (pain in the ass) to unplug sometimes, (i.e just replaced a headlight bulb). Even if there is no disconnect, you could prbably get away with cutting the wire(s) and then simply splice the wire cover back on each side of the cut and reconnect them by twisting together and coverint the twisted exposed wireing with electrical tape by state inspection time since you won't pass it but you would probably do (solve your problem) soonest since it is nice to have a horn for those other drivers not paying attention.
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