1999 S70 NA Xemodex replacement

[arrowrod]

After playing around with the "white" label ETM on my Volvo (I cleaned it, which seemed to work for a few hundred miles each time). I decided to replace it with the Xemodex ETM. Their latest news (to me at least) of upgrading their module with new software was the selling point (No dealer to deal with).

Fairly straight forward install. Remove the bolts and air hose, disconnect the electrical connection, bolt in the new part.

Unfortunately, Volvo decided to route the wiring cable behind the starter motor rear bracket. They also crossthreaded the mounting bolt holding the bracket against the engine.

So... Out came the radiator fan (the bottom screws don't have to be taken out, as there is a groove in the radiator fan mount at the bottom). Out came the bottom engine shield (to get to the bottom screws holding the radiator).

I made a bigger hole in the starter motor mounting bracket so that I could bolt the mounting bracket bolt straight in.

I was going to put the ETM cable behind the starter motor bracket as Volvo did, however the wiring cable from Xemodex was too short (I assume that Volvo shortened the cable and doesn't run the cable behind the starter motor bracket in later models).

Used a wiring tie to route the cable to prevent movement from the radiator fan air flow.

I also had a heck of a time disconnecting the cable plug. I detached the male and female plug, which are attached to the lower frame, to be able to push the plug release and pull the plug apart.

After 40 miles of driving to town and shopping, the S70 seems smoother.

[cknapp58]

I too just started driving my 99 S70 Turbo after replacing the Throttle body with the Xemodex, the starter, PVC system, all rubber hoses, timing belt, Drive belt, and rewrapped the harness. The car runs great and no oil leaks. After being a mechanic for over 25 years I must say the Volvo is quite different to work on. I had a major scare when I first started it up. I had what sounded like the valves hitting each other or the pistons. I tore it all apart to recheck the timing marks and sure enough, the crank was off by one notch. before starting I checked these marks at least three times rotated the engine the same after the install. I realized the best way to line up and recheck after installing the belt was to use a small straight edge., laying it in the grove between the cogs then sliding it back to the mark on the oil pump. After reinstalling the belt, starting it up the noise was still there. Now not afraid to run the engine, I found the noise coming from the drive belt tensioner. strange it wasn't making any noise prior to repair. I guess the spring could handle me moving it to install the new drive belt. All that out of the way I now had a bad misfire. I took it to the local repair shop to run the codes, He came up with electrical and said it had to be the coil. Replaced the coil, no help. Turned out one of the new plugs from Volvo was bad. cracked below the steel body.

Oh, for any one getting ready to buy the cam locking tool. I made one out of a piece of soft pine cutting it square and using a found rasp type file to make the notches for the cam pulley.

Now it is down to the parts store to pick up the tensioner. looks like fun, no room to work.