Hi Everyone,
I can't seem to find anything real specific on the site. Has anyone replaced their C70's top?
Although our 2001 (26,000 miles) is in great shape, the rear window seal is shot, the window is "coming unglued" and the material has some dry-rot around the factory heat-seal around the rear window. The car sits in the garage a lot so I guess it's to be expected after 11 years even with the low miles. (Ha... just replaced the ETM ! Of course it would not throw a code while it was still under the recall! - The Xmodex unit is AWESOME by the way!)
I've done several tops in the past. Can someone point me in the right direction / any hints from anyone that has replaced their top in the past etc? Not sure if there is any thing on the vadis CD or in a repair manual somewhere?? I did find some basic info online - looks like the "book time" is 6.5 hours or so. No problem, I can do it leisurely over a few days in the garage. I also do see NOT to "disassemble" any of the drive mechanism, motors/gears etc, in fear of having to take it to the dealer to get everything put back "into sync".
Any info would be a huge help. Especially if you've done it before. Thanks,
EDIT: For others searching for the same info, I did find a "Generic Instructions" below that may be of help:
http://www.convertibletopguys.com/static/topmanual
Replacement of C70 Top -Anyone done one??
I was never able to find any videos or instructions online so I made a quick video of myself replacing the top on our 2001 Volvo C-70 this past weekend.
Initially, I tried doing a repair / glue of the rear window with the 3M Windo-Weld. Even with a great prep of the glass and using the 3M Primer, the top tore right off of the window the first time I put the top up. After the repair, I let the car sit with the top loose for 3 days for it to set up. Although the 3M product did seem to work on other convertible tops, I feel the Volvo top, angle of the glass make the "force" on the top of the window "too great" for the Windo-Weld to hold effectively.
Overall - I'd say the difficulty is a 5-6 out of 10. Not really that bad at all if you are handy. Took about 5-6 hours after deducting the time it took for taking pics, video, cleaning "stuff" and getting coffee etc.... (I did not replace the headliner yet) - on order. That would take about an additional 45min to 1 hour to replace.
NOTES:
You can replace the rivets that you have to drill out (to remove the molding over the rear 1/4 windows) with:
HIllman # 491297 round head 10-24x1/2" long bolts and nuts. You'll also need:
HIllman #8 Flat Washers # 490685.
For the flaps that attach to a few of the frame "bows", Volvo uses a very sticky (but thin) 2 sided tape similar to a 2 sided carpet seam tape (which you can use for your new top). I've also found that Shurtape makes a strong Double Sided Duct Tape:
Shurtape Pro Series # 312575 1.88" x 12 yard (48mm x 10,9 m) which can also be found at Lowes.
It's strong and it can be removed if needed for future top replacements. The flaps really are not under much "stress", they just hold the top in place when it retracts so it does not bunch up.
@ $25, hey.... give the Windo-Weld a shot if you want to try it. It may work for you.
If you find that you do need to replace the top, see my video here:
Hope this helps other C-70 owners.
Initially, I tried doing a repair / glue of the rear window with the 3M Windo-Weld. Even with a great prep of the glass and using the 3M Primer, the top tore right off of the window the first time I put the top up. After the repair, I let the car sit with the top loose for 3 days for it to set up. Although the 3M product did seem to work on other convertible tops, I feel the Volvo top, angle of the glass make the "force" on the top of the window "too great" for the Windo-Weld to hold effectively.
Overall - I'd say the difficulty is a 5-6 out of 10. Not really that bad at all if you are handy. Took about 5-6 hours after deducting the time it took for taking pics, video, cleaning "stuff" and getting coffee etc.... (I did not replace the headliner yet) - on order. That would take about an additional 45min to 1 hour to replace.
NOTES:
You can replace the rivets that you have to drill out (to remove the molding over the rear 1/4 windows) with:
HIllman # 491297 round head 10-24x1/2" long bolts and nuts. You'll also need:
HIllman #8 Flat Washers # 490685.
For the flaps that attach to a few of the frame "bows", Volvo uses a very sticky (but thin) 2 sided tape similar to a 2 sided carpet seam tape (which you can use for your new top). I've also found that Shurtape makes a strong Double Sided Duct Tape:
Shurtape Pro Series # 312575 1.88" x 12 yard (48mm x 10,9 m) which can also be found at Lowes.
It's strong and it can be removed if needed for future top replacements. The flaps really are not under much "stress", they just hold the top in place when it retracts so it does not bunch up.
@ $25, hey.... give the Windo-Weld a shot if you want to try it. It may work for you.
If you find that you do need to replace the top, see my video here:
Hope this helps other C-70 owners.
You know, it's been so long - I cant even remember.
I'll take a look and see if I still have the company info. I was extremely happy with quality of the top. There is a cheaper version (Stayfast etc) and then the "better" Sonnenland / Sonnendeck" OEM Hartz fabric - which is what I purchased.
Don't let the mfg's tell you that all fabric is the same. It's not. The cheaper stuff will not last as long. (but the price is lower so it's not necessarilly bad).
Sonnenland is made by Hartz in Europe for various carmakers like Volvo, BMW etc. Sonnendeck is made by Hartz here in the US. You CAN pay more to get Sonnenland shipped over to the states, but according to Hartz the US version / Sonnendeck is the same quality BUT uses a COTTON BLEND fabric as opposed to an Polyester blend used overseas.
How do I know??? I actually emailed Hartz and a company owner (Jim Hartz I believe it was), acutally emailed and called me back! He gave me lots of great info. (Like Stayfast and other fabrics are not the same - despite top makers telling you that they are)....
The Sonnendeck top I bought still looked brand new when I sold it (2012-2016). Sold the car in 2016. Using 303 Marine Canvas (or Raggtopp) every year helps extend the life, keep the water beading / protects from U.V. etc.. (Still have the original top on our 2002 Saab 9-3 convertible and it looks brand new).
Here is a good link that I kept regarding tops. See # 10
https://www.gahh.com/faqs/
I'll take a look and see if I still have the company info. I was extremely happy with quality of the top. There is a cheaper version (Stayfast etc) and then the "better" Sonnenland / Sonnendeck" OEM Hartz fabric - which is what I purchased.
Don't let the mfg's tell you that all fabric is the same. It's not. The cheaper stuff will not last as long. (but the price is lower so it's not necessarilly bad).
Sonnenland is made by Hartz in Europe for various carmakers like Volvo, BMW etc. Sonnendeck is made by Hartz here in the US. You CAN pay more to get Sonnenland shipped over to the states, but according to Hartz the US version / Sonnendeck is the same quality BUT uses a COTTON BLEND fabric as opposed to an Polyester blend used overseas.
How do I know??? I actually emailed Hartz and a company owner (Jim Hartz I believe it was), acutally emailed and called me back! He gave me lots of great info. (Like Stayfast and other fabrics are not the same - despite top makers telling you that they are)....
The Sonnendeck top I bought still looked brand new when I sold it (2012-2016). Sold the car in 2016. Using 303 Marine Canvas (or Raggtopp) every year helps extend the life, keep the water beading / protects from U.V. etc.. (Still have the original top on our 2002 Saab 9-3 convertible and it looks brand new).
Here is a good link that I kept regarding tops. See # 10
https://www.gahh.com/faqs/
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