J-Hose Repair Tutorial w/ pics (EVAP Emission Hose)

Post by **kickin_it** » 28 Oct 2011, 02:47

First and foremost, awesome site, great info. My first post and I thought I would try to help others even though there are countless other tutorials. I am driving a 1998 Volvo S70 GLT with 262k miles. Never had any major problems, mileage issue arose such as the heater core failure and what not. Anyways, trying to pass emission test in Nashville, (Franklin) Tennessee. Failed and given the dreaded P0442 trouble code, found this site and off we went with the repair. Sorry for quality of pictures, from my cell phone.

I started by jacking the right side and removing the right rear wheel (not necessary).

: j_hose_1.jpg (70.63 KiB) Viewed 16060 times

One can locate the Canister and J-Hose by sliding underneath the car just in front of the right rear wheel well and look straight up.

: j_hose_2.jpg (84.24 KiB) Viewed 16060 times

The J-Hose is held on by these circular clips. I found the easiest way to remove them was to insert a tiny flat head into the connecting slot and just twist open, the clip will snap right off.

: j_hose_3.jpg (37.35 KiB) Viewed 16060 times

The J-Hose has two connections, one to the Canister (pictured above) and a connection with the Shut Off Valve which is pictured below.

: j_hose_4.jpg (25.51 KiB) Viewed 16060 times

The two hoses side-by-side with the flathead I used showing where the crack was located.

: j_hose_5.jpg (25.94 KiB) Viewed 16060 times

I took the advice of other tutorials and opted for the screw-type hose clamps.

: j_hose_6.jpg (20.7 KiB) Viewed 16060 times

: j_hose_7.jpg (22.92 KiB) Viewed 16060 times

Thank you for reading. Any questions or comments much appreciated.

Post by **jreed** » 28 Oct 2011, 06:23

This is great! Thanks and welcome to the site!

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Oct 2011, 08:10

This is great - thanks for the contribution. I will add this into the repair database for others' reference.

Post by **Xilikon** » 28 Oct 2011, 10:08

Same procedure for a AWD car ? I do remember seeing that EVAP box close to the fuel filter and I wonder if the J-hose is accessible. I'm asking because I heard the fuel tank must be dropped to replace that part.

axlaxl · Post by **axlaxl** » 28 Oct 2011, 10:31

Thank you so much...I've been dealing with this issue for the past 6 months and have been dreading taking it to the shop to pay for the repair...with this tutorial I am now confident to do it myself...any suggestions on where to get the J hose?

Great job!

Post by **kickin_it** » 28 Oct 2011, 12:27

@jblackburn - Thanks, glad to help. More to come in the future I hope.

@Xilikon - Not to sure for AWD's. This repair was performed on a 1998 S70 GLT FWD.

@axlaxl - FCPGroton.com is very affordable. I did not want to wait for shipping so I ran by Darrell Waltrip Volvo here in Franklin, TN and picked one up for $19.82 tax included. I purchased the hose clamps from Autozone for about $3.00.

Terens · Post by **Terens** » 29 Oct 2011, 03:50

hopefully this is the source of my 422 code. awesome write-up!

pmortv70xc · Post by **pmortv70xc** » 29 Oct 2011, 21:41

I did the repair on my 2000 v70 xc by accessing the hose from above through the panel just behind the right rear seat. It was fairly easy.

wertz4769 · Post by **wertz4769** » 30 Oct 2011, 10:09

Great Post! I have performed this repair on my 1998 S70 T5 several times as well as replacing the L shaped Evap line which seems to wear out just about around the same time. I have found it is a bit easier, and I feel a whole lot safer to back the car up a set of ramps and approach the lines from the bottom. May just be personal preference, but removing a back tire and working under the car with that little mid- line jack kind of creeps me out. Thanks for the graphics! nice work!

Post by **kickin_it** » 30 Oct 2011, 20:07

I will probably need to replace the hose that intersects with the J hose just after the shut-off valve. If you look closely at the last picture you can see a good amount of cracking. The ramps are a good alternative if you have them on hand so I had to run with the 2-ton jack stands.