Torquing control arm bolts using a jack to load the weight Topic is solved

Post by **Zimbo** » 30 Oct 2011, 12:09

I have installed new control arms and I am at the point where I need to torque the bushing bolts. I have my car up on ramps but that gives me very limited access to the nuts, to work my torque wrench into place. I've read where some have put the hub under load using a jack. That seems like it would give me the room I need but I don't know how to carry out this procedure. Any advice?
Thank you!

Post by **Pauloil** » 30 Oct 2011, 12:19

while car on jackstands, can put jack under end of control to get it up to ride height

Post by **Zimbo** » 30 Oct 2011, 12:24

Thanks, any suggestions for determining ride height? and where did you place the jack - on the control arm?

Post by **cn90** » 30 Oct 2011, 12:27

1. With on level surface, measure the distance between Fender and Center of Hub.
In this case, it is 15":

2. Then with car on jackstand:
- Use a floor jack below the control arm and jack it up until you get 15"
- Note also the "2-wrench trick" for added torque:

Post by **Zimbo** » 30 Oct 2011, 12:34

Thank you very much for the visuals, I'll give it a shot right now.

Post by **Zimbo** » 30 Oct 2011, 12:56

Okay, when I got to the point that I had another inch to go to reach ride height the entire car lifted off the jack stand and I couldn't close the gap the last inch. I had the floor jack positioned so that it avoided the cap under the ball joint. Does it need to be positioned all the way to the end of the control arm, below the cap? The weight of the car won't crush the cap? Thanks!

Post by **erikv11** » 30 Oct 2011, 13:42

Actually you are right to avoid the cap, it can be crushed.

One inch from ride height is fine, you can tighten the bolts when the arm gets to that level.

Post by **Zimbo** » 30 Oct 2011, 13:49

erikv11 wrote:Actually you are right to avoid the cap, it can be crushed.

One inch from ride height is fine, you can tighten the bolts when the arm gets to that level.

Thanks for the reply I was worried about that. I ended up putting my floor jack under rotor, that extended area off the brake area that extends for the lugs. Then there was no problem with hitting the mark.

This ends a weekend of new lower control arms and new inner and outer tie rods. Wow do I need an alignment now, my steering is about 1/3 of a turn off where it should be for driving straight.