Torquing wheel bolts

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 29 Sep 2021, 05:47

After my most recent visit to a mechanic, they wrote on the bottom of the bill, "RE-TORQUE THE WHEEL BOLTS WITHIN 50-100 MILES".
My manual states that the proper torque is 100 ft/lbs. My only question is can I torque them while the car is sitting on the ground or do I need to have the weight of the car up on a lift?

Post by **chrism** » 29 Sep 2021, 09:54

If it’s just a re-torque then weight on wheels is OK.

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 29 Sep 2021, 10:21

Yes it is a re-torque.

darylrobert · Post by **darylrobert** » 30 Sep 2021, 06:44

i check my bolts periodically, there are two types of wheel bolts the new style have captive washers where early cars had plain bolts (no washers) these bolts with no washers should be torqued less because the bite into your alloy rim and can lock.

Post by **BlackBart** » 30 Sep 2021, 12:13

Would you ever put a schmear of anti-seize on those earlier type bevels, or does that mess up the torque number?

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 30 Sep 2021, 13:10

So since my P2 is a 2002 most likely with the old bolts, would you recommend getting the ones with washers?

chris11211 · Post by **chris11211** » 30 Sep 2021, 20:11

Umm check first? If you have rounded out bolts or $80-$120 to burn then go ahead. Otherwise, there's other parts you should save up for.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 01 Oct 2021, 13:04

BlackBart wrote: ↑30 Sep 2021, 12:13 Would you ever put a schmear of anti-seize on those earlier type bevels, or does that mess up the torque number?

My opinion based on some incomplete knowledge of fasteners and bolt torquing, risk of incorrect (but close) torque on the lug bolt is less than risk of galling the threads or washer seat in corrosive areas. Use the schmear of anti-seize on threads and washer and check torque again at intervals.

volvolugnut