New 2002 S80 T6 owner\new to volvo\site.. needs advice..

S80T6_P_T_M · Post by **S80T6_P_T_M** » 06 Apr 2012, 20:27

Hello All, I am new to Volvo as well as this site. I have experience with many American cars from old school to newer supercharged\turbo models (the only FWD I could stand) and this is my first foreign car, a 2002 Volvo s80 T6 with 181,0xx mi, very clean interior, and nice body other than a few door dings. Good news is there are service\maintenance records. Ill come out and say it, I researched this car before purchasing and there were a few people telling me they checked the car out and I should not get it due to a leak, specifically a Trans leak. I had an opportunity to go over this car with as much time as needed; I looked at it and drove the car looking for a leak. no constant leak other than the spill from sitting for a year which was about a half a quart. Despite all the bad things I have researched, I needed a challenge like this one to have a change of pace in my my car world. Besides that I started the negotiations at 1300 (with my uncle, it was his girlfriend’s old car) and wound up at $1000... It’s my car now... So here are my Questions on tips needed as I am looking for as many sources to get this S80 up to par and then try new things with possible good results:

1) Can someone with good knowledge on this car please tell me anything I should check, replace, test outside the norm\basics i.e. oil change, tune-up, radiator flush. Possible Trans flush/fluid-filter change.

2) My new S80 starts right up, but has a rough idle, seems to have a dead cylinder but will drive with decent power. I’m positive there’s more to the T6. So I researched the issue, call my best friend who is a master mechanic/diesel mechanic and tell him to hand over his snap on SOLUS scanner. So excited to use all the advanced features over a smaller less expensive scanner he told me he doesn’t know if it will scan a Volvo. I found out it was not upgraded with the European car software, but I was able to read the codes and live data and this is what I got for the codes.
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
Please correct me if I’m wrong, The P0108 seems to fit with the post I found where the MAP sensor is bad due to cheap design and the soldering could be cracked or damaged inside, so I should attempt to clean the connectors/the solder fix or find a replacement MAP sensor.??

P0-104-102-101 to me points to a dirty or malfunctioning MAF sensor, I’ve tested MAFs on fords, but I wouldn’t think it’s the same. My plan is to clean connectors, clean MAF elements and housing, test voltages input/output if good clear code and see where I am. Any tips??
P0110 I have not found an IAT sensor but I am thinking it is in reference to the sensor on the MAF... Any help is appreciated. I can’t wait to get my new toy on the road...I will post Pics of it now soon and my appearance progress pics...

S80T6_P_T_M · Post by **S80T6_P_T_M** » 07 Apr 2012, 12:49

Any Volvo Gurus that can give a tip or 2??

Post by **matthew1** » 07 Apr 2012, 12:59

Give a new mass airflow sensor a shot. I know it'll be over 1/10th the price you paid for the car, but that's the nature of the beast. Perhaps you can change it at the store/dealer and return it on the spot if it doesn't help. Despite my dad owning an S80 like yours, I don't know enough to be an authority, just able to apply Gen 1 FWD Volvo ideas. If it's like Gen 1, you will see no change or improvement in idle while the MAF is unplugged.

Beyond that, a Stage 0 will keep your sanity intact.

S80T6_P_T_M · Post by **S80T6_P_T_M** » 07 Apr 2012, 13:29

Thanks for the advice matthew1, I will give the new maf a shot as well as the test, I will be happy if and when I get to stage 0 after all I have read about s80s.. thats not going to discourage me tho..

S80T6_P_T_M · Post by **S80T6_P_T_M** » 10 Apr 2012, 10:45

Update... checked all connections for the MAF and checked for visible vacuum leaks, I found one bad connection, a half inch aluminum tube connected to the turbo intercooler tubes that were just about off. I believe this may be routed as some sort of waste gate vacuum tube. After connecting there was an improvement in the idle, but it still rough sort of like a miss but there are no misfire codes. With the engine running I unplugged the MAF sensor and the idle gets worse. The test drive seemed to be worse now, there’s a little black smoke at start, it’s sluggish and there is a big lack of power and as there seems to be a misfire there is a surge with the lights dash and etc... I have not tried this with the MAP sensor as of yet but that what I will test in a few minutes here.
Question:
Does anyone know the voltage test procedures for the MAF as well as the MAP? I will buy sensors if needed but I want to make sure that it’s the proper diagnosis before shelling out hundreds of dollars and still have the same issue.
If problems are corrected will code clear automatically after a number of test drive cycles?

Any tips or Guidance is greatly appreciated, I just want to get this car running and everything to OE specs.

S80T6_P_T_M · Post by **S80T6_P_T_M** » 13 Apr 2012, 00:36

This is my new s80 t6 as it sits... still need tips and advice to get to Stage 0.. (see issues above).. any help is Appreciated..
Thanks

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 13 Apr 2012, 06:40

On a P2 car I'd advise against unplugging an sensor while the motor is running and or ignition is on. Is it throwing any misfire codes now? Smoke/rich running with the MAF disconnected is not too unusual.

Since you fixed a leak of some description I think at this point I'd reconnect the MAF sensor disconnect the battery to clear the codes as well as the adaptation data to start from a clean slate and go from there. Also while the battery is disconnected I would at least look at the condition of the spark plugs to see if they are carbon fouled. You can replace them with cheap copper plugs and expect to get 15K miles or so out of them. Ensure the gap is set to .028" when installing the plugs.

My theory is that your leak has probably thrown quite a few parameters for a loop and fouled the plugs with an overly rich mixture. You may well have issues with the MAP and or MAF sensors but at this point I think I would reset the codes and adaptation, use a fresh set of plugs and go from there.

S80T6_P_T_M · Post by **S80T6_P_T_M** » 13 Apr 2012, 10:43

Thanks for the tips and advice boosted5cyl, to clear up a few things I unplugged the MAF only for a few seconds to see is there was a change in idle.. It did cause the idle to get worse. I plugged it back in before the test drive. The leak in question turned out to be a low pressure power steering hose clamp at the pump. It leaked all of the fluid down and around the alternator and made its way under the motor. Any tips on cleaning the alternator and belt drive components without damaging electronics?? I want to degrease and power wash the whole engine compartment, it needs it as you can see. Lol

I had plugs on my list but I want to go with a good plug if I’m going to do it. , If copper is the cheap option what would be the best High and MId option for plugs? While I’m at it Ill try to do a little spring cleaning on hoses, clamps and etc.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 13 Apr 2012, 11:49

NGK coppers will be just fine. This time around might as well get cheap ones until you figure out what's going on. On the sensor my point was that, in my opinion you should never disconnect or reconnect a sensor while the ignition is on and the motor is running. Ideally turn the ignition off, connect/disconnect whatever you want to test and fire it back up. Especially with the S80, its got a lot of complex electronics that you dont want.

I'm still leaning with new plugs, clearing the codes AND adaptation and going from there. I don't think its going to fix your problem but I feel it will give you a good platform to troubleshoot from.

S80T6_P_T_M · Post by **S80T6_P_T_M** » 16 Apr 2012, 14:43

Thanks for all of you advice BOSTED5CYL...UPDATE2: I finally got a chance to work on the 02' S80 T6's issues. so the first thing I was going to do is test the MAF signal and voltage but decided to clean it really good first to see what happens since I had the MAF cleaner handy. I cleaned it as well as the MAP and IAT sensors\connections. i did disconnect the battery for over 30 minutes to clear the codes as well as the adaptation of the computer. I replaced a few clamps for the P/S low hose and a vacuum line. after all of this I decided to use seafoam to clean the crank case so i poured 1/3 can in the oil and 1/3 in the tank. So now I re-connected the battery and went for a test drive. the car now runs better than it did, AND THE RPMS now rev higher than 3500-4000 but seems to still have slight miss. I can hear there is more power and I can hear the turbos working now. I’m on my way now to get a set of plugs and an oil change kit. I am very optimistic that the plugs may put me closer to "stage 0". But there is a new message after the test drive. NO OIL PRESSURE SHUT ENGINE OFF.....

I think and hope its the seafoam that changed the oils viscosity and needs an oil change. Any advice on the new message is greatly appreciated as well as any others..
Thanks