Play at 3 & 9, just replaced outters

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 29 Apr 2012, 09:07

I put on new full strut assemblies and outter tie rods. There was play at 3 & 9 before I did it, and persists after. While I had tie rod out of knuckle, I moved it all around and did not perceive any play on inners.

What else could it be, wheel bearing? What should I do to confirm? Was thinking popping outter back out of knuckle, bolting on wheel and shaking again.

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Post by **jimmy57** » 29 Apr 2012, 11:26

Are you referring to play at steering knuckle if you turn to full lock or near full lock?
If so quit worrying, the gear ratio of the steering is variable on many of the Volvo rack n pinions and that causes the gear clearance to be loose away from the staight ahead postion.

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 29 Apr 2012, 12:17

Not at lock. Wheels straight ahead, hands on tire at 3 & 9 and shaking front-end to check suspension.

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Post by **erikv11** » 29 Apr 2012, 14:35

Those generic 3-and-9 and 12-and-6 tests for play are great reminders to check your suspension, but if you find play then the key is to just look at the suspension and see where it is coming from. Either you contort and get your head back there to look while you shake, or get someone else to move it for you. Which parts are moving? Is it the ball joints, or the hub? Or is it in the rack? Etc.

Post by **JRL** » 29 Apr 2012, 15:32

It can be anything
Probably control arms and it's one "T" in outer(s)

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 29 Apr 2012, 16:19

I put it back up on stands and shook it again, this time with one hand on the tire and other back on inner bellows. I could feel movement there. Inner tie rod it is?

I had the transmission in Park and Ignition switched to Off, but the wheels didn't lock (not sure if this is new). I was able to "steer" the front wheels, but partly was through the movement there was a dragging that caused a resonating vibration. Not sure what it was, never noticed before. Also, after getting it down and back on the road, do not notice it.

Post by **jimmy57** » 29 Apr 2012, 16:26

It will lock when you remove key.

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Apr 2012, 17:59

Agreed, inner tie rods seems likely. On my car they went about the same time, it was back at like 150k. However I would try to get a good look at them, make sure you are seeing play in the tie rod joint itself, not just in the rack ends. If you cut the zip ties that hold the boots, you should be able to pull back the boots and watch the tie rod's ball joint while you shake the wheel.

Do the same with the ball joints in the control arms: actually look at the joint while the wheel is being moved.

When it is bad, you will see movement in the joint itself. For any of those those ball joints, there should be zero play.

Just a warning: those cheap tie rods, the ones that are like $15 each, don't usually last very long. They didn't for me. TRW, Lemforder, Genuine Volvo. TRWs are still good after 5 years now.

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 29 Apr 2012, 18:44

erikv11 wrote:make sure you are seeing play in the tie rod joint itself, not just in the rack ends

If it were in the rack, could it be just one side or would it have to be play on both sides?

erikv11 wrote:Just a warning: those cheap tie rods, the ones that are like $15 each, don't usually last very long. They didn't for me. TRW, Lemforder, Genuine Volvo. TRWs are still good after 5 years now.

I used Meyle for outer, and plan on ordering Lemfoerder for the inners.

Any thoughts on what the resistance I encountering steering the wheels while in the air? Could that point to problem with the rack?

Post by **rspi** » 29 Apr 2012, 20:09

The control arms are likely the problem. If you jack the car, grab the wheel, look real close at the control arm mounts at the frame. If they move even a little the bushings are bad. I picked up a set of aluminum ones from a '94. You can replace the ball joints on them and get poly bushings for the mounts.