2006 xc70 valve lash

redlineharleys · Post by **redlineharleys** » 11 Jun 2012, 16:11

Hi , sorry if this is posted elswhere I tried to search but had no luck . I'm looking for the valve lash specs for a 2006 xc70 with a B5254t engine , i have ordered a manual but the head is at the machine shop and they are ready to shim it but my manual has not come in yet . I have found specs for other volvos but obviously need to be sure to give them the correct specs .Any help would be greatly appreciated .
thanks Chris

Post by **jimmy57** » 11 Jun 2012, 17:25

intake .20 mm +/- .03mm
exhaust .40 mm +/- .03mm
Those are cold/room temp specs. Engine will be cold before you could ever prep to adjust so no hot specs needed.
If seats or valves were touched stem tips may have to be ground to get to the height where bucket dimensions will work.

why was head removed?

redlineharleys · Post by **redlineharleys** » 11 Jun 2012, 18:23

We bought the car used , while under warranty it developed a serious exhaust leak at the manifold the car always ran a little rough but I was comparing it to our s80t6 . After a while it started to use a minimal amount of coolant about a pint every few hundred miles .to make a long story short I tracked it down to a head gasket leak into cyl 2 upon disassembly it was obvious that the dealer had removed the head to try and fix the exhaust manifold . The gasket was shot , 18 of the 20 valves were not sealing ant the head was .003-.004 out. Unfortunately there is no recourse with the dealer , but luckily I was a European mechanic before I opened my bike shop , so hopefully it will at least be right when I'm done and we can rack up 300k like our S80.
Thanks for your help.

Post by **jimmy57** » 11 Jun 2012, 21:47

I think a valve adjustment procedure I wrote as a reply is stickied in the repair database tab on here.

redlineharleys · Post by **redlineharleys** » 12 Jun 2012, 06:21

Thanks I did see that , I just wanted to make sure the specs were correct for the xc70 . My buddy at the machine shop is going to cut the valves to get the clearances. The only other thing that worries me is the variable cam timing but I was told if I didn't remove the pullys I should be ok .yes I am borrowing the cam tools for reassembly.

redlineharleys · Post by **redlineharleys** » 14 Jun 2012, 16:06

Well the head should be back from the machine shop Friday and my repair manual cd arrived , but to my luck they never burned it so it is blank . The assembly does'nt worry me but I could realy use the head bolt torque specs as well as the timing marks if someone has accsess to them and would share it I would appreciate it .Thanks again for all your help and info .

Post by **jimmy57** » 14 Jun 2012, 23:33

Head bolts: 15 ft-lb, 44 ft-lb, then 130 degrees. Typical inside out spiral pattern for bolts. I thin anti-seize with some motor oil and brush onto threads lightly to assure no aluminum galling.
Top cover bolts are 17 ft-lb, NO MORE THAN THIS
CVVT center bolts (TX 55): 89 ft-lb
CVVT center plug : 26 ft-lb
cam gear to cvvt hub bolts: 8 ft lb

Set crank to correct position first before head is installed. NOTE, the engine assembles at a position that IS NOT TDC #1.
If you look at the forward edge of the cam gear there will be a mark you will see if you turn the crank. Look straight down the timing belt path. The mark will correspond with the bottom of the belt tooth depression. Follow that depression back to the pointer on oil pump. the mark needs to be aligned with a straight on view. There is not a lot of forgiveness here. Absolutely correct procedure that hardly ever gets used would be to remove starter and use a stop pin stuck into a hole on the block. The pin stops a ground place on a crankshaft counterweight.

If you do not know which CVVt belongs to which cam: the deeper (taller?) one is for intake. Intake has a wider control range than exhaust and that means more piston bore depth in the hub.
With head installed and cams locked using tool 9995452:

1.Fit gear to CVVT unit with bolts centered in slots and tighten one bolt.
2. Fit CVVT unit to cam with timing mark at approximately 9 O'Clock position.
3. Secure center bolt and rotate CVVT to the right (CW) until it stops. Loosen bolt and turn to the right until timing mark is aligned with top belt cover notch. NOTE: do not turn back to the left if you go past notch. Repeat the step from the start if you do this!
4. Tighten center bolt and then recheck that marks align when turn CVVT to the left and back to the right against it stop.
5. Torque center bolt to proper torque and then install CVVT plug and torque it to the proper torque.

NOTE: Use the same steps for BOTH CVVT units if the engine is a dual CVVT unit engine!

6. Loosen the bolt securing gear to CVVT unit and then fit belt around all pulleys keeping the timing marks aligned. (The cam gears need to "float" for now. The belt being tensioner will shift the cam gear and then the CVVT will be turned back to its right (CW) stop which is the setup position.)
7. Tension timing belt in the proper direction (CW for 6 cyl, CCW for 5cyl) by going to a higher value for tension and then relaxing the tension to lower proper level. Proper level is the moving indicator upright between the "goalposts" on the tensioner bracket.
8. Turn CVVT unit to its right stop. Check to be sure the gear bolts are not at the end of the slots and then torque the gear bolts to the CVVT to proper torque. The bolts for the gear do not have to be in center of range and will not be on new engines from the factory.

Continue installation instructions in VIDA

redlineharleys · Post by **redlineharleys** » 21 Jun 2012, 21:19

Just want to say thanks for all the help . I wrapped the car up Tuesday and It's running mint .
Thanks Chris