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XC90 Rear Hub Replacement Tutorial

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America).
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » XC90 Rear Hub Replacement Tutorial
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KeninKenmore
Posts: 10
Joined: 08 Jan 2013, 22:51
Year and Model: XC90, 2006 4.4V8
Location: Kenmore WA - just north of Seattle

Volvo Repair Database XC90 Rear Hub Replacement Tutorial

Post by KeninKenmore »

Here is a tutorial I put together after having to replace the rear hubs on my 2006 XC90... after doing the first one. It was easy, and I didn't see any other tutorial on it... so here's my shot at it. If anyone has the torque ratings, I'll add them in - I don't have any manuals so had to guess :D

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...Hope this helps someone else!

FYI: In between replacing the right and left sides, I adjusted my parking brake... the right side I had to wiggle a bit for it to slide over the parking brake pads due to slight groove in the rotor. If yours has been on longer, you may need to adjust the parking brake a lot looser to get the rotors off & back on...
2006 XC90 Rear Hub Replacement.pdf
PDF of the full tutorial...
(3.13 MiB) Downloaded 1407 times
Ken
'06 XC90 Pearl White 4.4l V8 (sold)
Son's '06 S60R

99VulvaS70
Posts: 13
Joined: 11 Mar 2011, 09:44
Year and Model: 1999 S70
Location: Wind Gap, PA

Post by 99VulvaS70 »

Great tutorial Ken. I can't thank people like you enough for providing info like this. Makes it easier for experts, shadetree mechanics(like me) and novices alike.

jetskifast
Posts: 25
Joined: 23 Apr 2012, 01:23
Year and Model: 2004 XC90 T6
Location: San Francisco

Post by jetskifast »

Nice job, Thanks.

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Scheduled for inclusion in the Repair Database. Thanks Ken.
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1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
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matthew1
Site Admin
Posts: 12389
Joined: 14 Sep 2002, 11:03
Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
Location: Denver, Colorado, US
Has thanked: 1344 times
Been thanked: 657 times

Post by matthew1 »

Posted in the MVS Repair Database.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.

1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
2004 V70 R [gone]

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kwright21
Posts: 1
Joined: 31 May 2016, 10:24
Year and Model: Volvo 2008 XC90
Location: Washington, DC

Post by kwright21 »

Hi thanks for posting. Did you have any issues with removing the ABS sensor?

KeninKenmore
Posts: 10
Joined: 08 Jan 2013, 22:51
Year and Model: XC90, 2006 4.4V8
Location: Kenmore WA - just north of Seattle

Post by KeninKenmore »

Sensors do not have to be touched... it was an amazingly simple repair considering the cost the dealership wants to charge for it. After I did one side, i decided I needed to do a tutorial to show how easy it was to encourage others to tackle themselves...
Ken
'06 XC90 Pearl White 4.4l V8 (sold)
Son's '06 S60R

scottalanf
Posts: 1
Joined: 15 Jul 2016, 22:08
Year and Model: 2006 XC90
Location: Oregon

Post by scottalanf »

Great tutorial. I found it very helpful and kept it up while I worked through the replacement on 2006 XC90. Based on my experience the potential impact of rusty parts was not well addressed. The rotor was rusted to the hub and all the tapping with a padded mallet and metal on metal on the center of the rotor was not moving anything. I finally attached a C-clamp to the exposed side of the rotor and rigged a 2-foot steel bar through the C-clamp frame and across the hub which became a fulcrum. Then I could strike the opposite end of the bar hard enough to get significant force in the right direction.

Compared to the hub the rotor was a piece of cake. Hours of tapping and dithering moved nothing. After trying all sorts of lash-ups I broke down and rented a substantial puller. The puller was rated at seven tons and was well taxed before spline rust gave a little. I was a hard pull throughout the length of the spline with probably 20 good "pops" before the job was done.

Though I wire brushed and scraped rust from every spline, reassembly of the greased spline was difficult and I could barely get spline engaged and could not force it into place by hand. Since the center bolt was not long enough to reach the internal threads of the spline shaft, I found a long stud with threads that matched. I engaged the stud in the shaft threads and put a nut on it. I fitted an adjustable wrench under the nut and used the wrench as a lever against the hub body to pull the nut, stud, and spline shaft into place. The lever probably gave a five to one mechanical advantage and the nut was easily adjusted to ratchet the spline forward.

I only go to this details to warn folks that this two hour job can take much longer (especially without access to a puller). I my case it was a long half day.

FYI- I got about 100k miles out of these bearings in a vehicle that very rarely carries any load but has seen lots of moisture (no salt). In this day, this seems to me to be very poor performance.

suribachi
Posts: 5
Joined: 25 Jan 2010, 14:45
Year and Model: 2008 C30
Location: Connecticut USA

Post by suribachi »

Great tutorial. Just did the fronts last week and I'm doing the rears today. I got 170000 out of mine and I live in New England where there is a lot of salt and I use it to go on vacation with a full load of people and stuff pulling a trailer from time to time, so I guess it's a crap shoot when it comes to how long they last.

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