P0455 and P0410 codes on a '98 V70

WesleyW · Post by **WesleyW** » 15 Apr 2013, 15:49

My 98 V70's check engine light stays on. I've hooked my reader up to it and it gives me two codes. The first one (which has come up since I got the car in 07) is P0455 EVAP Evaporation control system leak (Large), in the last 3 years, I've had all the O2 sensors replaced (that's what the mechanic said it was.) The next one is a new one I haven't seen before, P0410 secondary air injection system malfunction. What else can I do for the EVAP code? And what is the P0410 code and what can I do about it? Also how difficult is it to do these repairs myself?

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 15 Apr 2013, 17:11

I think the 410 is the SAS. Maybe an easy fix, depending what state you are in. The other might take a smoke test to find out. Mine was only a bad hose and the gas cap, so far. This is going to bite me in the back side,,,but I have not had an engine lite in a year. Just passed another inspection.....

.
Shane

WesleyW · Post by **WesleyW** » 17 Apr 2013, 15:27

did you replace it yourself? how difficult was it? I've already replaced the gas cap. Mine passes inspection because I have a reader that can reset the codes for 100 miles.

Post by **erikv11** » 17 Apr 2013, 17:25

P0455 is a very common nuisance code on these cars. It is often due to a crumbling vaccum line (people call it the J hose) at the charcoal canister or back by the rollover valve near the fuel filter. If you want to get rid of the code, you need to check the hoses and replace all of the bad ones. The smoke test will help you find the leaks.

Fixing the P0410 can be easy if you are willing to just bypass the whole SAS system. Search this forum for "SAS delete" to get a lot of info. A good place for the procedure is this thread at another site: http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... elete.html

WesleyW · Post by **WesleyW** » 17 Apr 2013, 19:56

I'd rather not bypass that is there another way?

Post by **erikv11** » 17 Apr 2013, 20:41

If you want to keep the SAS, next step is figure out why the code is setting.

If you reset the code, does it come right back?

A (most?) common reason for that is the SAS valve up on the exhaust manifold is worn out, so moisture gets through and accumulates in the pump, the pump fills with water, and dies. Been a while since I did any troubleshooting on the SAS, but for sure you want to see if the air pump turns on when you start the car in the morning. It should run for just a couple minutes. You could also test the air pump by putting 12v across the terminals and see if it runs. The air pump is mounted below and to the front of the battery, there is a plastic pipe on it leading to the air cleaner.

Where are you located - do you have easy access to a used SAS valve from a junkyard? You could try swapping one in. To replace, the SAS valve is expensive (like $85 I think?) and the air pump is very expensive (more like $200+).

Also, the code could be as simple as a hole in a vacuum line, check all of the vac lines from the SAS and the associated purge valve that is probably located on the driver's side of the radiator.

WesleyW · Post by **WesleyW** » 18 Apr 2013, 16:36

Yes, when I reset the code it comes back after 100 miles (that's how far my reader will reset if for.)

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Apr 2013, 16:55

So the code is likely some combination of those things mentioned:

- vacuum leak in the SAS system, also look at the check valve
- bad SAS valve
- dead air pump (maybe less likely if it takes 100 miles for a CEL)

WesleyW · Post by **WesleyW** » 19 Apr 2013, 11:36

The EVAP code has been on since I bought the car in 07. the other one is new.

Post by **rmmagow** » 19 Apr 2013, 11:48

I got the P0410 code once on my car. There is a relay that controls the air pump, the relay is up near the place where the fuel pump relay is located, I do not 100% remember exactly where. I used piece of HEAVY and insulated wire to jumper the relay connections with the ignition on and could hear the AIR pump scream! It is right under the battery. I ran it for a few minutes and it started to quiet down a little and it has been at least 6 months since I've seen the code. The pump, however, is most likely to fry itself sooner or later. Expensive little thing but there are work arounds using VW air pumps. You would need to get the above mentioned $85.00 part. This air pump serves very little purpose other than to maybe heat up the O2 sensor a tad faster, probably not going to contribute much to global warming if it isn't working.