Feels like clutch slipping, but I have an automatic. What?

hanseich · Post by **hanseich** » 07 May 2013, 12:47

Hi everyone,

hard to even put this topic in the subject line. I've got an 850 turbo, and when I really push it, it feels as if "a clutch was slipping". The power just does not get transmitted to the wheels in a linear fashion anymore (the way I remember it when I first go the car). If my car had a standard gearbox, I'd say the clutch is slipping. What is wrong?

Furthermore: it also smells like burnt "clutch" (or maybe rubber, or burning brakes) when really pushing it. I have not changed my transmission since I got the car, which was about 15,000 miles ago.

Cheers, Hans

Post by **mikealder** » 07 May 2013, 13:08

What state is the transmission fluid in, if it is black/ dark brown and smells burnt a fluid change is probably the best approach, also double check the autobox fluid level if it is low with the engine running top it up by adding fresh fluid down the dipstick tube - Mike

hanseich · Post by **hanseich** » 07 May 2013, 13:37

color: light brown, (between red and brown)
level: I can never tell with that dip stick (I just checked, even pulling it out really carefully, I can't tell, but I noticed the rubber seal on the dip stick is broken, I need to change it)

At Valvoline (where I do my oil changes when I don't have the time to do it myself), they are always trying to sell me on a tranny flush, because "there are little particles in the fluid".

I want to avoid doing a flush, when it fixes nothing. What is the actual mechanism that connects/disconnects ("clutches") the engine to the gear box? Do those parts ever wear out?

Post by **wheelsup** » 07 May 2013, 15:45

Engine to gear box is the torque converter. It bolts to the flexplate and slides into a gear set on the transmission. No idea on lifespan. Typically when replacing the transmission a new torque converter is put in as well. It's too bad you are in Toronto I have a known good one that I could just give you.

hanseich · Post by **hanseich** » 07 May 2013, 16:41

Does that mean, there are no parts that are physically linked together? Just hydraulic fluid transferring the action? I thought, there are some clutch plates that are (automatically) operated.

I suppose the only thing that I can do to influence any sort of action is fluid level, and fluid quality. The engine has only 220tkm (136t miles) on it. I've not heard of many developing issues with the gear box this early.

Post by **wheelsup** » 07 May 2013, 18:17

Mine started going around that time. When you would drive and the fluid would heat up, it would drop out of gear when coming to a stop. I lived with it for ~50k miles. I got a basically free transmission and swapped that in last year.

The torque converter is physically bolted to the flexplate that is bolted to the crank on the engine. As far as clutches go in the internals of the transmission there are "clutches" of such, not real familiar, they would wear but I can't imagine yours would be worn down at that mileage.

Post by **xHeart** » 07 May 2013, 18:29

mikealder wrote:What state is the transmission fluid in, if it is black/ dark brown and smells burnt a fluid change is probably the best approach, also double check the autobox fluid level if it is low with the engine running top it up by adding fresh fluid down the dipstick tube - Mike

+1. This is a pre-requisite, vital information.
It takes time to get it right, close to accurate, else everything said is a hyperbole.

Post by **jblackburn** » 07 May 2013, 18:45

The clutches in an auto just help it change gear.

Change your fluid. Do it.

DO NOT let it near a flush "machine". They will only destroy your transmission. Instead, you want to dump the fluid in the transmission pan and replace it, one change at a time.

Volvo v70 transmission drain and fill tutorial

Like that, but your transmission will use standard Dexron III rather than Type IV Toyota fluid.

hanseich · Post by **hanseich** » 07 May 2013, 18:57

okay, will do. Mobil ATF 3309 also doing the trick?

Post by **jblackburn** » 07 May 2013, 19:03

You can use Mobil 3309, but you'd have to change ALL the fluid which isn't recommended on a transmission with unknown history.

Better to stick with the cheaper Dexron and do 3-4 drain and fills over the course of a few weeks or so. One change, drive for a week or two, repeat. If that transmission still has life in it, it should nurse it back to health.