1998 S70 T5 - Heater Core Plumbing Alternatives

Post by **MoVolvos** » 13 Oct 2013, 04:07

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I wanted to see how that Volvo (IPD 120323) - Heater Core Hardpipes & Firewall Junction Coupler was made and how easy it was to remove but in doing so I BROKE IT

. As I mentioned in earlier posts I was going to try the alternative of running just hoses through the Junction Coupler as found on another website and got my wish, unfortunately. After it was all said and done I would say DON'T MESS WITH or REINVENT VOLVO's mouse trap. Here is what I started with and then finish with.

However, An Important Note Before (You

) I Begin: I purchased the Ebay Heater Core from Swedish something with the Lifetime Warranty early last year (yes no heat all last winter) which I just installed and so far so good but you should absolutely flush the inside of metal grit and spray the outside with detergent of the manufacturing oils. Found all this metal in the bottom of the Coolant tank and at this time it smells of grease when you turn on the heat. May have to remove it to clean the Fins of the oil.

Metal Shaving - Seemed like a lot more on the bottom of the Coolant Tank

Bad Heater hose leaking since I bought the car in Jan 2012 which I thought was coming from the Turbo with 2 to 3 drips each time I parked (NO Longer). I think the Air Tube to Turbo may have done the damage as I did not pulled the Tube when I did the PCV work last year but just pulled the PTC (would not recommend) from the Tube for cleaning.

Started out with 1/2 " Gates hose in one run but decided it was too tight to push the hose onto the 2 fittings on the engine so I went with 5/8" in a different configuration. In retrospect a little grease could have done it.

: Single Run 1/2" Gates Heater Hose - Could Have Made It Work

: 5/8" Gates Heater Hose Cut To Length To Protrude Into Engine Bay From Coupler For Attachment

: The Heater Hose Fitting and Engine Block Fitting and Heater Core Hard Line are about the same size

Removed Fitting, Sanded and Copper Anti-Seized

: Heater Hose Fitting To Side of Engine Block Left Lower Side of Distributor Cap

The 5/8" hose is a good fit through the Coupler opening. I used some Copper tape someone gave me and some Gorilla Duct Tape to stiffen it and fill the opening of the Coupler. The Coupler needs to be gutted by breaking the ends and sliding everything out.

Should NOT Have CUT The Tube So Short. It Did Bend / Bind When Attached To The Core Though Not Bad

Final Product: 5/8 " Gates hose was too stiff for a single run so I had to cut it down and used the old factory Heater Core hose end fittings to make the turn. Also, due to the bending of the 5/8" hose to the engine attachments I cut the old Heater hose and split it open and wrapped it around the new 5/8" hose with a zip tie as a protective cover where it rest on the body of the vehicle (not shown). Since the hose has a natural curve I would try to see which way flexed best in order for it not to kink (not shown).

: Home Depot Heater Hose Clamp Is The Most Inexpensive Compared With Other Hardware or Auto Parts Stores

OE Courtesy of "jblackburn"

: jblackburn_Heater Hose.JPG (79.53 KiB) Viewed 1347 times

In Conclusion:

OE is best, then 1/2" hose single run not cutting the aluminum tube so short and finally the end result of 5/8" hose but also not cutting the aluminum hose so short. I think the last maybe the better alternative (5/8" vs 1/2") in terms of fit and curvature besides filling the hole in Coupler fully. The 1/2" would have been much faster if you can get the hose onto the fitting on the engine.

Blessings,

BKM

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Post by **rspi** » 13 Oct 2013, 05:38

I know someone who ran hose through the firewall. They had issues with leaks on the clamps and ended up getting another coupling and going back with that.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 13 Oct 2013, 10:57

rspi wrote:I know someone who ran hose through the firewall. They had issues with leaks on the clamps and ended up getting another coupling and going back with that.

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I thought about that too. The Coupling and OE Heater hoses due to its shape and routing also acts as a damper for the Heater Core when the engine moves due rotational torque. The current 5/8" Heater hoses in the engine bay has a little flexibility due to the routing so hopefully it will not leak or leak too soon. Thanks for letting me know I'll keep an eye on that for slipping or leakage.

Blessings,

BKM

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Post by **erikv11** » 13 Oct 2013, 11:25

FYI for anyone else thinking about getting rid of the coupler: here at MVS there are a handful of threads about doing this, do some searching. I have always used a heavy duty 5/8 hose (Gates Green Stripe), but only done it on non-turbo models.

nonturbo · Post by **nonturbo** » 21 Oct 2013, 09:53

erik, i have to do the same , bypass and remove the coupling and go straight for the hose connection ! non turbo , 2.4 99 s70, seems to not have any obstructions ,just 2- 90 degree turns . would you recommend 5/8 , or 1/2 hose for the line ? thanks

Post by **erikv11** » 21 Oct 2013, 11:57

Yes, I would recommend 5/8 anyway because that will fit best on the pipes, but especially on a non-turbo where there is room for it. You could buy a 5 foot length, figure out the routing and how much hose you will want, and then cut it. That's what I did.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 21 Oct 2013, 22:56

erikv11 wrote:Yes, I would recommend 5/8 anyway because that will fit best on the pipes, but especially on a non-turbo where there is room for it. You could buy a 5 foot length, figure out the routing and how much hose you will want, and then cut it. That's what I did.

How long has the 5/8" hose been in the car and have you check it for chafing where it touches the chassis/frame areas or other parts as it is bent for routing?

Even though I cut the 90 degrees elbow from the OE Hoses for 5/8" hose in the engine side it still has to rest on various parts of car during routing. I had to cut several pieces of the old hose to shield the new hoses from rubbing.

Blessings,

BKM

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nonturbo · Post by **nonturbo** » 22 Oct 2013, 08:45

BKM, This post uses the old coupling housing without the "tube parts", tight fit but looks like it solves the chaffing problem . also I have electronic throttle, no cable ...

Post by **cn90** » 22 Oct 2013, 08:52

1+ to what erikv11 said.
Run the heater hoses from the metal piping in the cabin ---> firewall ---> engine.
No more couplings to worry about.

Post by **erikv11** » 22 Oct 2013, 09:07

BKM98 S70 T5 wrote:...
How long has the 5/8" hose been in the car and have you check it for chafing where it touches the chassis/frame areas or other parts as it is bent for routing?

Even though I cut the 90 degrees elbow from the OE Hoses for 5/8" hose in the engine side it still has to rest on various parts of car during routing. I had to cut several pieces of the old hose to shield the new hoses from rubbing.

I used the 5/8 hoses for maybe 18 months (?), then that car became a parts car so I stole the heater core and removed the setup. It's in the garage waiting for when the next coupler goes out. I actually had each hose make a small loop in the engine bay, like 6 inch diameter maybe, to avoid stresses on the hose that would cause kinking.