2001 Volvo S80 2.9 PCV Step by Step Replacement Instructions

bmartine · Post by **bmartine** » 19 Oct 2013, 15:55

Hello Experts,

I'm new to this forum and just purchased an 01 Volvo S80 2.9 (Non-turbo). I am experiencing the clogged PCV symptoms and I'm planning to replace it myself. I'm an amateur when it comes to mechanical tasks but I wanted to save some money and do it myself. I already purchased the PCV kit but I searched for PCV replacement instructions for a 2.9 non-turbo and can't find any. I hope someone here can provide me the detailed step by step instructions preferably with pictures to help me successfully complete the job. Thanks in advance.

Post by **yuckuJackD** » 19 Oct 2013, 20:33

Well I've rebuild my 2.9 non-turbo engine, and during all the time I was making pictures. I give you a link to the gallery hoping it will help you to see where it is and then decide what to do. 328 pics during a B6294S Engine head restore
The bad thing with our engines is that the throttle body is just under the inlet while the 5cyl engines the throttle could be left there.
However, I think you should remove the whole inlet assembly to be able to get access to the PCV, BUT as I remember there is one BAD bolt for which you'll have to remove even the bracket which keeps the alternator, hydraulic pump and compressor. Or maybe you could do that without removing the whole inlet, but just the throttle body, dipstick and the mentioned bracket. But it would be hard I believe. I've done PCV but as a part of engine repair where everything was dissembled...
I'll try to make a step=by-step but don't judge me if I miss something.

1. The PVC pipe between the air cleaner box and the throttle body.
2. The fuel injectors harness
3. in case you don't plan to clean the fuel injectors and you're able to undo the bolts keeping the inlet manifold to the engine head you may leave them there, as most likely you'll destroy a couple of their O-rings. BUT leaving the fuel rail in pace means you'll have to play with the fuel input pipe quick connection which seems not to be quick and no easy to open (for me). I've never considered to do that even with plenty of space, but you'll have to do it "blind" just feeling it. I'd remove the fuel rail assembly.
Before you start removing the inlet ensure nothing is left plugged there - there are a lot of vacuum hoses for example. Name/mark them. Take pictures so that latter you could see haw they were placed.
Undo the bolt securing the oil level stick to the inlet and pill the stick with it's tube out.
As I remember there ware some cable paths attached to the inlet, too.

I got LPG system fitted so don't get scary

Fuel rail and throttle body are away:

Bottom half of the inlet is away:

Now you could see the PCV:

On this picture the view is better,, but of course you wont open the engine itself

At the bottom line. This procedure is fine for hard beginner fan with plenty of free time but you say you're "an amateur when it comes to mechanical tasks" so you got two exits:
1. Become a better mechanic
2. Pay to somebody to do the job.

There are many things that I didn't say like you should not drop any tools, dust and other stuff in the bottom part of the inlet, because they go just IN the engine, and a lot of other basic stuff. I just don't know what you knowledges are.
In case you decide to do it by you own just tell me do make a proper step-by-step tutorial, but know that it takes time so I could do it at least next weekend.

It would be easier to make a PDF from VIDA but ... ok I will

OK, VIDA said you should remove just the upper part of the inlet, the throttle and all the hoses.

PCV_B6294S.pdf: (1.25 MiB) Downloaded 1344 times

But how the he** they think a human been could be able to undo the last bolt securing the PCV itself to the engine body? There is no tool that could be used, or I just didn't figured out how would it look like. OK you'll brake the old one but you still got to find a way to bolt in the new one...
The bolt I'm talking about is behind the bracket in to the tight space between the bracket and the engine:

: 030433873_.jpg (135.79 KiB) Viewed 5547 times

There is no access from top, no access from bottom and no access from front. I was not able to remove it even with removed bottom part of the inlet so I removed the bracket.

bmartine · Post by **bmartine** » 20 Oct 2013, 10:23

Hi yuckuJackD,

Thank you very much for the prompt and detailed response. It seems that it is a lot harder than I thought. I was thinking the 2.9 will be a lot less complicated than the turbo version but probably not. Anyway, I still would venture on doing the job. I will be on vacation next week and I think I have a lot of time to take it slowly but surely. If you can create the step by step for me, that would be highly appreciated. Please confirm if and when you can and I will wait for it before I start tinkering with the engine.

Eldoninoz · Post by **Eldoninoz** » 20 Oct 2013, 20:23

If you have purchased another breather/separator box then just break the left tab under the accessory bracket. Then you can grind for clearance for a 10mm socket for access to install/uninstall the left bolt.

This is a pic of when I did this mod on my bracket. I used a drill bit to rough it out and finished it off with a grinding stone on my drill until the clearance was enough. The newer S80 models have this clearance cast in the bracket. This will keep you from having to remove the bracket to gain access to the bolt and will save time. it is only a minor notch to allow a 1/4 inch drive 10mm socket to fit.

bmartine · Post by **bmartine** » 20 Oct 2013, 22:07

Hi Eldoninoz,

Yes, I bought a new breather box. I'll try your suggestion. Can you highlight in the picture the modification that you did? I am not sure where it is. Thanks in advance.

Eldoninoz · Post by **Eldoninoz** » 23 Oct 2013, 09:43

The modification is right about dead center in the photo, it is directly over the bolt that holds the tank to the engine block. I removed enough material to allow a socket to access the bolt.