There are a lot of DIYs for Fuel Pump, but many of them show you the wrong way to d/c the fuel connector. So read on…
1. Do this outside of the house in well-ventilated space and gas tank <1/4 full. No smoking, no spark. Best is to do this during day time so you don’t use any lighting.
2. De-pressurize the fuel system: in the engine compartment, remove the plastic cap at end of Fuel Rail, have a rag ready and depress the Schrader Valve a bit to release fuel. Re-install the plastic cap.
3. Before doing this job, take a moment to review the anatomy of the Volvo Fuel Hose Quick Disconnect. I removed the outer rubber cover so you can see:
- The INNER Ring is the tab you need to depress to release it.
The problem is: it is way down, so you really need a right-angle pliers to hook under this INNER ring and lift it up.
- Deep inside is GREEN O-ring(s). Forgot to take the photo from my 1998 S70, so I borrowed the photo from a Volvo 740 to show you the GREEN O-ring(s). Likely I.D. = a bit less than 8 mm so it fits the metal nipples. If your Green O-ring is broken, find a similar O-ring and post the info here please!
4. Do NOT squeeze the connector sideway like this!
5. Now you can see the Right-Angle Pliers are used to hook underneath, just enough to hook under the INNER ring to lift it upward. Note the direction of fuel flow (supply and return lines):
6. I have a Sears Craftsman Oil Removal Tool that I use to change my oil as shown below:
This Sears Craftsman Oil Removal Tool works perfect for this Fuel Pump Rubber Seal job! But…
- Apply CCW on ratchet only enough so the Tool bites gently into the Fuel Pump Plastic Cover.
If you apply too much ratchet pressure, you may squeeze the Ring Cover and deform it and will not be able to remove it.
- Make sure the Oil Removal Tool do NOT touch the 2 metal nipples on the Fuel Pump. You do NOT ever want to break these 2 metal nipples!!! In other words, the Oil Removal Tool can only touch the Black Plastic Ring.
- Now use the Right-Angle Pliers to twist it CCW to open.
7. For the Rubber Seal. NOTE:
- Two (2) inner lips, both of these lips go inside the gas tank. Some people don’t pay attention to this and these 2 lips become trapped in the Gas Tank Round Neck and end up with fuel leak later.
- I apply a bit of grease in the groove (where it meets with the Gas Tank Round Neck) for a good seal. You don’t have to do this, it is just my way.
8. I also applied a bit of grease on the Gas Tank Round Neck .
Once the Rubber Seal is installed on the FP, slowly install the Fuel Pump, making sure the seal fits properly by:
- Using a mirror to verify fitment.
- Rotate the whole assembly back and forth a bit for a good seal.
9. When you tighten the cover back on:
- Remember the Sears Oil Tool: again apply gentle CCW pressure on the ratchet only enough to “bite” on the Ring.
- Now use the Right-Angle Pliers to twist it CW to tighten it. The whole assembly has a tendency to rotate CW as you tighten it. So twist the whole assembly a bit CCW ahead of time such that by the time you are done, it fits in the factory position (see the 1st photo).
10. During installation of the Fuel Connector, press it down firmly with your thumb until the connector clicks in, the bottom should be about 2-3 mm from the top of the white plastic cover.
In other words, you want a proper seal here!!!
Now clean the whole outside (screwdriver and rag), this way any future fuel leak is easy to spot. Don’t replace the metal cover yet, leave it alone for a week while you monitor for any leak with a flash light after a fill-up.
That is all boys and girls…










