1994 Volvo 855T stripped bolt heads
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azureblue
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1994 Volvo 855T stripped bolt heads
While attempting to replace the starter I discovered the previous owner had rounded and way overtightened all of the mounting bolts. I got one 14MM off -it was a bear to get it to come loose, but the other two are stuck, beyond six point sockets and beyond vice grips, too. I am considering getting the Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set - Item # 00952166000P, but is this the best thing for getting rounded bolts / nets loose, and will they take the torque? At least I have a replacement starter and bolts in hand, so I don't care if the existing bolts are trashed...
544
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5
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QuirkySwede
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Hate stripped bolt heads. Propane heat spit hot. Acetone+ATF (50/50) for corroded. Dremel opposing "flat spots" so you can use a crescent wrench. Tack weld a nut on then use a socket. Lots of approaches.
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azureblue
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but none of those are feasible in this situation. I'm looking for a response for someone who has done a starter R&R.
544
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5
- rspi
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
As you likely seen from my video, I have done a starter R&R but did not have any issues with bolts. Which bolts are stuck? Photo?
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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JDS60R
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Those bolts are in a tight spot. I have the craftsman bolt removers you spoke of and they work well if you can get them in there. I have both a cold chisel and an air hammer with chisel I favor.
Drive the cold chisel in (towards center of bolt) with a hammer then angle it and drive it loose.
If I can get the air hammer in safely I will choose it over other methods but that's a tight spot and close to the alloy trans case so I guess I would use the stripped bolt remover first, then a cold chisel and then the impact hammer.
I have welding equipment so I might just tig on another bolt .
If you are in real tight then file down the sides of the bolt so you can get a smaller open end wrench on it.
Drive the cold chisel in (towards center of bolt) with a hammer then angle it and drive it loose.
If I can get the air hammer in safely I will choose it over other methods but that's a tight spot and close to the alloy trans case so I guess I would use the stripped bolt remover first, then a cold chisel and then the impact hammer.
I have welding equipment so I might just tig on another bolt .
If you are in real tight then file down the sides of the bolt so you can get a smaller open end wrench on it.
Retired
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kahl
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I have the Craftsman 13 piece nut/Bolt extractor set. They have worked great in some dire/crapy situations. The number 9 and 8 extractor is basically the same foot print as a 14mm socket. they are set up for use with a 6 pt wrench. I have applied some high ft lbs to them with no problem. though I have not used them often, when I did use these extractors they worked flawlessly.
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QuirkySwede
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QuirkySwede wrote:Hate stripped bolt heads. Propane heat spit hot. Acetone+ATF (50/50) for corroded. Dremel opposing "flat spots" so you can use a crescent wrench. Tack weld a nut on then use a socket. Lots of approaches.
Uh, yes, they are. And I've done plenty of starter R&R, both Removal and Replace, and Remove and Rebuild. Hitting the head at an angle with a chisel is another method. Sometimes you have to remove other parts (e.g. intake manifold) to get more room to work with -- that's the nature of dealing with rounded-off bolt heads (proper term, "stripped" is for threads). OxyAce' is another method for stubborn fastners which I didn't mention because it doesn't sound like something you have experience with or access to, but that's still another technique. On some things you can remove the other bolts then twist the items to help free the last one.azureblue wrote:but none of those are feasible in this situation. I'm looking for a response for someone who has done a starter R&R.
With experience, one starts to encounter rounded off bolts less because the recognize it failing and stop prior to rounding it off with the "hope" that weaker hold will some how work on a bolt with the same resistance instead of trying something else (tighter SAE socket) while there's still meat to work with. Sidenote: one cause of rounding heads off I've seen is folks turning the tool the wrong way (or ratchet set wrong), especially if upsidedown or another awkward spot.
I know you'd love to hear there's a pixie dust solution, but that's not the case. You're in a deeper hole so are going to need bigger ladders.
Keep at it and good luck.
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JimBee
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Menards recently had a 6 pc. set of the rounded-head sockets available for $14.95 that includes the 14mm. I've often thought about such a tool and had some ideas about how it would be designed. I'm glad to see it's been done.
There does need to be some remnant of a point for those gouges to dig into to.
I have not used mine yet, but it looks promising. Unless it's a Chinese knockoff, it's probably the same as the Craftsman, just sold under different label.
Good luck.
There does need to be some remnant of a point for those gouges to dig into to.
I have not used mine yet, but it looks promising. Unless it's a Chinese knockoff, it's probably the same as the Craftsman, just sold under different label.
Good luck.
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joe_pinehill
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- Location: United States
taking it a shop and having them weld a nut on the end may be the easiest, heat from the weld helps remove also.
96 850 GLT
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RIP '90 240 DL, 285K, someone ran a stop sign in front of me
RIP '89 760 Wagon, 200K
RIP '83 240 Wagon, rusted out
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