DIY: 1998 S70 Dash Rattle Ghetto Fix! Topic is solved

[cn90]

Most people here are familiar with Ozark Lee Dash Rattle Fix.
There are 2 versions of repair: version 1 and version 2; you can read more below:

Dashboard Mount Repair - Version 2.0
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=58347

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My 1998 S70 is now for my kids to use for high-school. I simply don't have 6-8h to take the dash apart, so I resort to a "Ghetto" Fix. Surprisingly, the result is very good, no more noise after I did this fix.

So, I want to dedicate a thread just on "ghetto" techniques for dash rattle.

This DIY only takes 10 minutes or so, skill level is 1/10, super easy.

1. To test the theory, I installed some cardboard as shown and sure enough, the noise is gone:

VolvoDash1.JPG (62.32 KiB) Viewed 7281 times

2. All you need is "Butyl Rope", the stuff auto glass shops use to attach windshield glass to older Chevy Ford models many years ago. You can buy them at local glass shop for about $10 for a roll of 10 feet or so. This is in fact used on other parts of the car (vapor barrier etc.), so you can use it for other jobs too.

VolvoDash2.JPG (84.48 KiB) Viewed 7281 times

3. On both sides of the dash, at your shin level, there is a Torx screw. Tighten it.
Then apply a small bead of Butyl Rope as shown:

VolvoDash3.JPG (87.57 KiB) Viewed 7281 times

Easy peasy, noise is gone...

[rspi]

Please update us in 30 and 60 days. I'm afraid that it will push the dash away from the firewall.

[erikv11]

Might this put additional stress on the already breaking mounts, making things worse rather than better?

[cn90]

So far so good, zero rattle. This stuff is like chewing gum, I just put a dab as shown.
Almost no stress on the dash at all.

[erikv11]

Aha, OK. I want to give this a try, thanks.

[Ben850]

I had the dash pad out of the wagon to pull the instrument cluster and replace the odometer gear, so I took advantage of the opportunity to help out my sagging, bouncy dash.

Replacing cluster with its new odometer gear.

Passengers side Where cn90 pointed out the torx screw, I removed that screw and lifted the whole dash almost an inch. I then drilled a new hole at that point and screwed it back in.

Raised this screw almost an inch.

Then at the topside of that same metal bracket that holds up the dash I drilled a completely new hole in the bracket and straight into the door jamb area at the A pillar. I used washers to space it correctly as to not pull the dash too tightly and contorted out of its original position.

Washers helped hold the original position.

I repeated on the other side and the dash is now quiet and motionless.

I still plan on doing something at the firewall when I am in that area again.

[cn90]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for the "ghetto" idea. I like it.
As I mentioned above, I simply don't have the appetite to spend 6-8h to pull the dash out...

[Ben850]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for the "ghetto" idea. I like it.
As I mentioned above, I simply don't have the appetite to spend 6-8h to pull the dash out...

This took me less than 2 hours total, including replacing the instrument cluster and taking pictures. Not too bad. (Add another 1/2 hr. for odometer gear.)

Of course I have experience getting the dash pad off between the Sedans accident and odometer fix, and quickly getting them off donor vehicles.

[singood]

I ghetto fixed my Volvo's squeaks by using regular plastic shims, wedged between the dash and the a pillars on the sides.

I used about three shims on each side of the dash and took it for a test ride - love the quiet! Hopefully the shims do not place too much pressure on any other fastening points and will remain long term...

[cdnbluez]

The real "ghetto fix" is to pull the bolts from the firewall and use some spray foam insulation in each hole. Get back inside the car and put pressure on the dash until the foam sets. Let it cure overnight.