1998 T5 - New Member Introduction and Questions

Post by **mecheng** » 28 Mar 2014, 11:41

I will start off first by introducing my T5 SE - with 220,000km (136,000 miles), I got a pretty good deal on her because she had 3 engine codes and it scared off some buyers: P0133, P0410, P0455. I am a Mechanical Engineer and I've worked on cars all mylife, having owned/maintained a Honda Prelude SRV, Acura Integra. I've decided to sell the Integra because with a family I need a safe, roomy car. My dad has a 97 Volvo GLT and I've helped him maintain it by researching all the websites so I am pretty familar with Volvo's and appreciate their excellent corrosion resistance, and strong engine/trannys. I am well aware of their sensor issues, AC, heat, PVC but I think it should be worth it. I love how it drives, it pulls hard and is comfortable.

I've already fixed the air pump issue, great instructions on this site! I am also getting it to Stage 0, so I've replaced the plugs, oil cap rubber (there was oil on top of the cover), cabin air filter and I will do the cap/rotor and fuel filter, upper motor mount (its bad). He had already changed the PCV, front struts.

My Questions are:

1)The O2 sensor seems pretty straightforward, has anybody tried at NTK (NGK) for these cars? They are Made in Japan and I can get one for $100 versus the $250 for the Bosch

2)For the P0455, I cleaned the purge valve or so I think Please confirm that this is the purge valve, it was under the air intake hose near the rad.

: Is this the purge valve?

3)For the J hose, It wasn't clear where it is, is it near the fuel filter? See the pic I've attached, I took it bending on my knees near the fuel filter, the picture is of the component it is attached to . Or is it behind the turn signal or front wheel like some have suggested?

: Does the J hose connect to this component

4) There are two small hoses near the throttle body cable that connect to the manifold; they seem old and cracked, what are they for?

: What are these two hoses for

5)The owner said he replaced the ABS module so I want to know why the light came back on. Is there a way to check it? I can't do it with my OBD II reader.

6)I tried the AC and it cycles on and off but its cold outside so is this normal? Or is it the AC clutch?

Any input is appreciated, thanks

: She needs some detaling but here she is at Day 1; IMG_2937.JPG (125.83 KiB) Viewed 1973 times

Post by **rmmagow** » 28 Mar 2014, 11:51

Spring for the Bosch O2 sensor at amazon, this might be it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ ... PDKIKX0DER

Post by **mecheng** » 28 Mar 2014, 12:31

Unfortuantely, Amazon does not ship to Canada but if that is the concensus I will buy the Bosch. I'm just not sure how good the Bosch sensor is considering it failed on my dads 850 as well. I've never had to replace an O2 sensor in my Hondas and they are NTK I believe.

Post by **precopster** » 28 Mar 2014, 15:04

Regarding Amazon shipping with much searching for numerous Volvo items I've managed to create a Wish list of items that WILL ship to Australia. Just search for the same part description and you should get numerous matches.

The trick is to place the item in the Cart then look for the drop down list for shipping options. Alternatively the transaction will fail after the later stages of the transaction if it won't ship.

Post by **esl_97_850_T5** » 28 Mar 2014, 15:10

Concerning how to read the '98 S70 T5 ABS codes...

Check out this post in the "1998 S70 T5 - Few Misc. Questions on Various Topics" thread. It seems to be right up your alley. It mentions the possibilities of:

- using Brick-Diag Free Beta with a VAG/COM KKL USB cable, or
- using a terminal emulator with an ELM327 device.

Most importantly, it includes the instructions necessary to read/clear ABS DTCs using an ELM327 device. Those instructions work with '96-'98 850/S70/V70/C70/XC70 (and possibly some more years/models).

If you have an Android device, you might consider getting an affordable bluetooth ELM327 device and using the free "ELM 327 Terminal" emulator like gmh described in the I read my 97 850R mileage with ELM327 and an Android phone thread.

My experience is with a ~$18 ELM327 clone from eBay and with a ~$38 used ScanTool.net OBDLink SX from Amazon. The (ELM327 v1.4 compatible) OBDLink SX is definitely the better tool. Both are USB cables.

If you follow the links above, you'll eventually come across my volvo850diag. It has not yet finished being generalized for the 1998 S70, though even now, volvo850diag v0.5 will work as is to read/clear the 1998 S70 ABS. You can do that ABS DTC reading/clearing with Read DTCs and Clear DTCs pushbuttons for the ABS, somewhat similar to how the Vol-FCR and Brick-Diag GUIs work, but the interpretation is a separate action. volvo850diag requires Windows XP (or higher), Internet Explorer v8 (or higher), Realterm, ELM327. It's open source, essentially public domain, and free, other than the cost of the ELM327 device. If you explore the volvo850diag route, I'd suggest waiting about a week, so I can finish generalizing it for the '98 S70/V70/C70/XC70.

Many people use Vol-FCR, which requires a VAG/COM KKL style cable (like Brick-Diag). The latest (legal) Vol-FCR v1.7 Demo is not useful with the 96-98 ABS, since it only decodes 1 DTC and it does not clear any DTCs. Instead, many people use (illegal) Vol-FCR v1.3 Full (cracked) downloaded from pirate download sites. I have not gone that route.

Brick-Diag Free Beta v0.0.6.6 will do what the cracked Vol-FCR v1.3 Full will do, except for the Service Light Reset. It works with a variety of Volvo models in the late 90s, it's legal, and though its name says "Free", it actually costs $1-2 via a Paypal donation.

Any of the above approaches -- either VAG/COM KKL cable based or ELM327 device based -- can be had for $20 or less. If you take both approaches, it could be done for $40 or less. It you added a OBDII Y-connector so you passively monitored one leg of the Y, while actively communicating on the other leg of the Y, it could be done for $60 or less.

If you want a handheld scanner to read the ABS codes, then I'd definitely suggest the Autel MS700 or Autel MS800 variants. MattyMoo, the resident ABS module repair guru, uses one of the MS700 variants and has many posts at MVS and elsewhere recommending it. This approach seems to range from $70 - $250. I'm not sure if it resets the SERVICE light or not.

If you are willing to pay roughly $150, you can get the Vol-FCR v1.7 Full (legally). It will read/clear all the DTCs of most of your ECUs. It handles Motronic 4.4 (but not Motronic 4.3). And it resets the SERVICE light. I'm not sure if it can manipulate the Service Light Reset limits.

The advantage of the ELM327 approaches is that they can also read the Vehicle Mileage and some other COMBI data. Whereas the Vol-FCR Demo and Brick-Diag Free Beta approaches don't do that. I'm not sure if Vol-FCR Full can handle it.

Another advantage of the ELM327 approaches is that they can change the Service Light Reset limits.

Enough info overload for now...

esl_97_850_T5

Post by **erikv11** » 28 Mar 2014, 16:29

1 - O2 sensors must be Bosch with the pre-fit connector, there is a long history of trouble with others.
2 - That is the purge valve.
3 - I think that is the charcoal canister yes, can't tell for sure. Also look at the hoses on the rollover valve near the fuel filter.
4 - the one that loops over the manifold probably goes to the fuel pressure regulator. The other I am not sure. Bottom line, replace them both when it is convenient. Pretty much all of the rubber lines are shot by now.
5 - you want to check the resistance to the wheel sensors, go the the midwest-abs.com page there are instructions. Check the rings on the axles they may be dirty. But by far most likely is the owner put in a used module and it failed right away, or one that wasn't repaired properly, etc., so that you need a ABS module rebuild. PM to MattyMoo as he will solve your ABS woes for the best price.
6 - Slow cycling is normal. Fast (every few seconds) is not, that could be either the clutch or it just needs a recharge.

Post by **scot850** » 28 Mar 2014, 23:19

Try Rock Auto for the bosch O2 sensors. They ship to Canada. If you need the extension cables, I bought Volvo OE from eautoparts. They only ship to Canada once a week, think it is a Tuesday.

Speak to Matty on the ABS module.

A/C may need a recharge. Have the system loaded with a dye incase there is a leak. There are several possible. Hopefully not the evaporator as that is a dashboard out job. The job is detailed on the forum.

Welcome and good luck.

Neil

Post by **mecheng** » 29 Mar 2014, 06:37

ESL_97: can you make a coles note version

with a newborn, and work that is a long involved read
I helped my dad fix his ABS computer, we sent it to MidwestABS last year.

ERIKV11: thanks that was nice and consice

SCOT850: perfect, $85 shipped to my door. I've heard a lot about rockauto, but I've never used it.

Update: After cleaning the purge valve, the EVAP code is gone but I have a new code P0116 so just like my dad's GLT looks like I need an ECT and Thermostat. I will buy a volvo thermostat, not sure if I need OEM for the sensor?

I'm surprised the O2 sensor code hasn't come back, I didn't service it, only the air pump and evap but I did change the plugs, they were pretty bad and some oil was getting into the cylinders from the oil filler cap so it might have affected the O2 sensor readings, I guess I have to drive some more.

Keep the responses coming, and thanks for welcoming me into the community! I noticed that Honda, and Volvo support is strong. I was looking at getting a Benz but the support just doesn't seem to be there.

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Mar 2014, 09:29

The thermostat there are several known good (cheaper) brands that box up the Wahler: Gates and Stant have been posted about for sure, maybe others. ECT should be Volvo brand.

Post by **esl_97_850_T5** » 29 Mar 2014, 10:38

You might find the O2 code returns after 1-3 days after certain Readiness flags are set.