I'm pretty sure my A/C compressor went out last season. I was hearing a metallic ring and eventually it stopped blowing cold air.
The clutch fix seemed okay and I topped up the refrigerant Then I got a leak at the high pressure seal, so had it pumped down.
Prices for replacement units seem to vary widely for new ones and rebuilts.
I would go with a rebuilt if there are known reliable units available for much less than new.
Suggestions appreciated!
btw: is it possible to test a compressor off the car if I took it to a shop?
96 855 best option for rebuilt/new A/C compressor?
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jimmy57
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Rock auto $233 new. Ebay new as low as $139. Any rebuilts I find are more than these new ones.
You need to see if metal escaped the compressor. If metal can be swabbed in the discharge line to condenser then a condenser is needed as well as orifice and accumulator.
The condenser is a parallel flow type and you can't flush it. The air and flush chemical can go through the other tubes and the debris is left behind to come out later and plug orifice, stop oil flow, and kill new compressor. Most ac parts sellers require condenser replacement to get full warranty on the compressor.
You need to see if metal escaped the compressor. If metal can be swabbed in the discharge line to condenser then a condenser is needed as well as orifice and accumulator.
The condenser is a parallel flow type and you can't flush it. The air and flush chemical can go through the other tubes and the debris is left behind to come out later and plug orifice, stop oil flow, and kill new compressor. Most ac parts sellers require condenser replacement to get full warranty on the compressor.
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JimBee
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Jimmy57: thanks for the detailed info. Do you mean I would open the coupling at the firewall and swab out the tube with a Q-tip?
One reman unit I found requires new drier and orifice tube and expansion valve. Do you have preferred sources / brands for those?
One reman unit I found requires new drier and orifice tube and expansion valve. Do you have preferred sources / brands for those?
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cn90
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Jim,
OEM is Zexel and is hard to find, about $380 online.
I don't know much about "Four Seasons" and other brands sold by rockauto, which are probably made in China anyway.
Denso does not make compressor for our models (850, S/V70).
OEM is Zexel and is hard to find, about $380 online.
I don't know much about "Four Seasons" and other brands sold by rockauto, which are probably made in China anyway.
Denso does not make compressor for our models (850, S/V70).
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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burnout8488
- Posts: 504
- Joined: 18 June 2011
- Year and Model: 1999 S70 AWD
- Location: Endwell, NY
I'd get a used Zexel from the junkyard (or even eBay) before getting anything rebuilt or non-Zexel.
These aren't a huge failure item, and if you find a low mileage car (90-100K) you could probably get 100K+ out of a used compressor…
Definitely do the orifice tube and receiver/dryer. Those are not an option, but a requirement.
These aren't a huge failure item, and if you find a low mileage car (90-100K) you could probably get 100K+ out of a used compressor…
Definitely do the orifice tube and receiver/dryer. Those are not an option, but a requirement.
'13 BMW X1 35i M-Sport
'99 S70 AWD/FWD - 198K - FOR SALE!
'99 S70 AWD/FWD - 198K - FOR SALE!
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jimmy57
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The swab test is done at the line connection on back of compressor or the line at condenser that comes from compressor. separating the liquid line over in front of engine and checking the orifice is also a good idea but if you find metal flakes at the compressor discharge you already have the answer.
GPD and Four Seasons are good brands with good reputations and with good pricing.
GPD and Four Seasons are good brands with good reputations and with good pricing.
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rmmagow
- Posts: 2023
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- Year and Model: V70 1998
- Location: Rhode Island USA
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In the case of a catastrophic compressor failure aren't you supposed to put some kind of filter in-line to trap metallic particles left over from the failure?
1998 V70 AWD 228K - Daily Driver
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D - 197K Off Road For Now Brakes Failed
1998 S70 135K - FOR SALE
2003 GMC Sonoma - 114K - POS
1958 Mercedes Benz 220S 66K Original and never to be restored.
2006 Saturn ION 5-Speed - 150K Son's weird little easy to fix car
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D - 197K Off Road For Now Brakes Failed
1998 S70 135K - FOR SALE
2003 GMC Sonoma - 114K - POS
1958 Mercedes Benz 220S 66K Original and never to be restored.
2006 Saturn ION 5-Speed - 150K Son's weird little easy to fix car
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cn90
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If you shop for used Zexel, then stick to 1994-1998 models.
The 1999+ compressor has different design (pulley and belt routing etc.).
There is a Zexel in my local junk yard with very low mileage (around 80K miles). I don't have the time to pull it but it is there.
Also, adjust the clutch gap before you put it in, this way you don't have to play with bread clips/zip ties later lol.
Below is a "New Old Stock" Unit, at $325, it is not a bad price at all! Considering all the work involved and also theR134a recharge cost, this is a good buy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-8601498-A ... 0923549473
PS: I posted some trick in the thread below, watch for the bracket (between compressor and engine) that hold the compressor:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=39209
The 1999+ compressor has different design (pulley and belt routing etc.).
There is a Zexel in my local junk yard with very low mileage (around 80K miles). I don't have the time to pull it but it is there.
Also, adjust the clutch gap before you put it in, this way you don't have to play with bread clips/zip ties later lol.
Below is a "New Old Stock" Unit, at $325, it is not a bad price at all! Considering all the work involved and also theR134a recharge cost, this is a good buy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-8601498-A ... 0923549473
PS: I posted some trick in the thread below, watch for the bracket (between compressor and engine) that hold the compressor:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=39209
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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jimmy57
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You do this for household a/c. You cut a line and solder in a filter/drier.rmmagow wrote:In the case of a catastrophic compressor failure aren't you supposed to put some kind of filter in-line to trap metallic particles left over from the failure?
On automotive you flush if serial flow condenser and replace if parallel flow. Parallel flow is almost 100% if not 100% now. Parallel flow pressure drop condensers perform so much better and keep high side pressure down as R134a increases pressure at higher temps non-linearly.
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JimBee
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Narrowing things down, and considering a raft of repairs to get roadworthy and comfortable, I'm looking at this rebuilt unit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/19049-57519-Vol ... 58&vxp=mtr
Regardless of price, all new or rebuilt units seem to ship with a one year warranty, usually with some conditions such as new drier and expansion valve, plus approved A/C flush (which according to jimmy57 might be moot if there's any loose filings in the system). That I won't know until I get it apart.
This vendor offers the 1 year plus free shipping and lowest price for a USA rebuilt. So I might give it a try, assuming other members don't successfully talk me out of it : P
First, the radiator, water pump, heater core, hoses and torque rods.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/19049-57519-Vol ... 58&vxp=mtr
Regardless of price, all new or rebuilt units seem to ship with a one year warranty, usually with some conditions such as new drier and expansion valve, plus approved A/C flush (which according to jimmy57 might be moot if there's any loose filings in the system). That I won't know until I get it apart.
This vendor offers the 1 year plus free shipping and lowest price for a USA rebuilt. So I might give it a try, assuming other members don't successfully talk me out of it : P
First, the radiator, water pump, heater core, hoses and torque rods.
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