2003 S60 Clunking rattle from rear right

[maddog2020]

I just bought this car about 3 weeks ago and am steadily working my way through the few issues it has. Given that it has 145k miles on it, it's really a pretty solid car, especially now that I've had a bunch of work done - new timing belt, water pump, all new bearings on the front of the motor, new motor mount, all new brakes and a few more maintenance items that the prior owner should have taken care of.

One of the remaining things we (my mechanic and I) are struggling to figure out is a clunking rattle (best way I can think of to describe it) coming from the right rear whenever the car goes over bumps or any kind of slightly rough road surface. I'm wondering if the rear subframe bushings might be shot, particularly because the car sometimes feels a bit like the body isn't tightly connected to the wheels, especially when going over an uneven surface at freeway speeds (a common occurrence in Los Angeles).

The mechanic has tightened everything up back there, and can't find anything obvious, but he experiences the same "loose" feeling I'm experiencing.

Any ideas? If it is the subframe bushings, how easy/hard are these to replace?

Thanks,

Ian

[velorider]

Check the shock mount inside the trunk. I have a similar clunk and lots of posts suggest end links or shock mount. Both very cheap so I've done the end links which tighten up the rear but didn't fix the clunk. I now have new mounts to install this weekend.

[maddog2020]

Thanks, I'll take a look. Any thoughts on what might cause the feeling that the car is not connected to the wheels over bumps? It's a bit hard to describe, but it feels like when I hit a bump the rear end of the car moves sideways.

[sdworack66]

I just bought a 2004 Volvo S60 also and have the exact same symptoms, were you able to figure out the cause of the clunk and "squirelieness"?

[nov]

I also have a tapping/rattle noise from rear left for over a year can not find it . new rear shocks/ new drop links/ new top mounts / new discs / new calipers / new pads / noise still there .checked everywhere for loose stuff. i also get the feeling the car goes sideways going over certain large bumps.

s60 2001 2.4t

[sdworack66]

I am taking the car to Belle tire to have them look at it, i will post when i learn something about this.

[oragex]

Make sure the hand brake cable is well secured to the chassis. I had an annoying rattle over the smallest bumps and it was the cable kicking. Can just ask someone to keep the cable with a hand and kick the rear wheel.

Another easy to fix issue is the gas filling pipe that goes to the tank, it has a small plastic bumper so it doesn't rattle against the wheel arch.

[sdworack66]

My local repair shop told me the sta bar bushings were worn out and making the noise. They would have to replace the entire sway bar ($440) since the bushings were bonded to the bar and not available separately. I took the car home as is, and put my thinking cap on. The sta-bar bushings did not seem that loose and the noise did not seem to match. The car passed the bounce test, but the way the car reacted over the bumps, i thought it has to be the shock. Replacing the shock was night and day better, the clunk was completely gone. The shock offered resistance when i compressed/extended it, but was quite jerky. I think this was why it passed the bounce test in the driveway, but did not have the smooth damping required for dynamic suspension events on the freeway. I have read that the suspension can displace a full inch, in 1/1,000th of a second.

BTW, now i am going to replace all 4 shocks/struts, i bought them on ebay from prime choice. It was only 97.02 for the full set shipped to my home vs. $82 for 1 rear shock from my local parts store. It looks like others have cut the bonded sta-bar bushings off and replaced them with aftermarket ones for about $20.

happy Volvoing, Steve

[oragex]

You got 4 shocks for $100 shipped? Are these the Stagg ones?