97 850keep blowing hazard fuse with right signal and hazards

shrtskts · Post by **shrtskts** » 19 May 2014, 18:42

1997 850 WAGON I recently had a problem with a ground from the trans to the battery, in the time before I found the broken ground I replaced the ignition switch, starter and pnp switch. After that my turn signals stopped working and I traced it to the fuse being blown, before I found the blown fuse I replaced the turn stalk and hazard relay switch. At one point I also tore apart ignition switch electrical connector, what a mess that was, the pins fell out of place and I had to figure it out. after finding a diagram online I put the pins back into their proper slots (I think) One of the pins had two potential holes they could have been placed in and I did in fact put it in what I believe was the wrong one. my clock got all jumbled and it didn't fix itself, and so I used the other hole and all was normal. I'm not sure if that's where my problem is, I doubt it I figured I'd include that in case I'm wrong.

So my major problem is my left signal works no prob, turning on the hazards and right turn signal on blows my fuse for the hazards. My father helped my test the fuse while activating the lever and for the; left signal the voltmeter read ~10ohms, the right signal read ~8ohms, and the hazard was reading open (that shouldn't be)

sounds like a short, right?

sure

well from here I'm lost, I have a copy of the repair manual downloaded on my computer. the electrical diagram is crazy! I traced much of it around, but I'm not sure what to do because its the hazard and right signal. do I check pin 25 for the right signal? or the branching point at 23/208 where the hazard meets the right signal? where would that even be in the car? My amber lights up front work with the day lights, although I'm assuming that's on another electrical system that keeps that running, although it must be grounded fine. Now what about the Ground point 31/12, in the trunk right side? I would have to remove my paneling in my car to check that?

thanks,
Bish

Post by **cn90** » 19 May 2014, 23:42

Remove the R turn signal assembly and see if the wring is shorted out there.

Post by **abscate** » 20 May 2014, 02:45

So my major problem is my left signal works no prob, turning on the hazards and right turn signal on blows my fuse for the hazards. My father helped my test the fuse while activating the lever and for the; left signal the voltmeter read ~10ohms, the right signal read ~8ohms, and the hazard was reading open (that shouldn't be)

You don't want anything turned on when checking a circuit for resistance.

Put your voltmeter on volts.

Go back to the fuse that blows and measure the voltage on each side of the fuse, with the blown fuse removed and the ignition on. One side will be at 12 volts +-2, that is the HOT side. Now measure the other side, it should be near zero. The near zero side is the load side.

Turn ignition off. Fuse stays removed. Switch voltmeter to ohms. Measure from load side to ground to see if there is a short there. Report the resistance measured.

If you have voltage on the load side, you have a wiring problem in the load. Don't measure resistance if you see any voltage on the load side....the number won't mean anything and can you damage your voltmeter.

shrtskts · Post by **shrtskts** » 20 May 2014, 06:21

Go back to the fuse that blows and measure the voltage on each side of the fuse, with the blown fuse removed and the ignition on. One side will be at 12 volts +-2, that is the HOT side. Now measure the other side, it should be near zero. The near zero side is the load side.

I definitely did this, the load size came in at .37 volts, I didn't think anything of that. When the hazard switch was flipped there was no change in ohms from when it was off. the left signal read 10.5 and the right read 8.0. I have tried to check out my wires in correlation to what is on the diagram. Although I'm not sure where to put the both of the prongs on my voltmeter to get effective readings. I poke it them around and get all sorts of numbers. Do I have to turn on the signal as I'm testing?

PS I got the voltmeter for free, and I have a few more. Harbor freight tools gives them out.

Remove the R turn signal assembly and see if the wring is shorted out there.

I did just pull the right front light off, checked it out, that looks fine. I run my ambers with my day lights just fine, so I'm not suspicious of that

shrtskts · Post by **shrtskts** » 20 May 2014, 06:47

oh wow, thanks so much for the help everyone! I located the problem. I knew the right signal was the problem so I feverishly looked at all my blue-green wires and it turns out when I installed my new ignition switch I accidentally crimped the blue green wire in it, exposing the copper which was touching the ignition switch, shorting out the system.