1990 240 wagon front hub bearing test/adjust/replace

edelmatt · Post by **edelmatt** » 22 Jun 2014, 13:03

Hi all. I got my front wheels off, because when driving there seemed to be the sound of bad front bearings. I.e. constant hum/whine from the front which varied with speed. Applying the brakes seemed to have no impact. I surmised this ruled out a sound from disc/pad friction.

Once getting the wheels and calipers off, the hubs spun very freely with no sound or apparent friction. There also doesn't appear to be any play from side to side or up and down when pulling on the disc. But from my experience with my Toyota wheel hubs, usually there is some feeling of friction in newly installed bearings with the wheels off. So does the absence of friction and the free spinning indicate the bearings need to be replaced?

Thanks!

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 22 Jun 2014, 22:09

edelmatt wrote:bearings

Wheel bearings need to be inspected, but with older vehicles with lots of miles, its a good idea to replace wheel bearings.

There is a technique on installing, so consult your automotive booklet, and/or find someone who has done it before. These wheel bearings are not torqued down like hub bearings are.

Free spinning suggests a dry bearing, and it may suggest its going to shoot craps, at your expense.

240s do not have a hub setup, there are wheel bearings inside of a hub.

I've never bought from these folks, but this is a good price, if S/H is not high: 240 1975–1993 Wheel Bearing Kit 2 needed

Here is what one kit looks like, for one side:

240 1992 front wheel bearing

edelmatt · Post by **edelmatt** » 24 Jun 2014, 00:03

Thanks 93Regina. I got the left hub off and think there should be more grease than I found. The car has 180,000+ (odometer broke last year) and I don't know when, if ever, the bearings have been replaced. I just bought SKF replacements from fcpeuro for $33/set. The set you linked has a nice price, but no brand name attached. Maybe it's paranoid but I'd be a little concerned about quality with the other part.

Pep Boys said they'd remove the old and put in the new races for $25/side. I might go that way, or I might buy this race/seal driver set and attempt it myself with hand tools. $50 bucks to Pep Boys isn't bad though, if they don't screw it up.

Anyway once that's done I've got no worries about packing the bearings and doing the adjustment.

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 24 Jun 2014, 16:01

edelmatt wrote:Pep Boys said they'd remove the old and put in the new races for $25/side...

I don't know who Pep Boys is/are, but if they have newly trained "mechanics" there, run away.

When new races are put in, you can't bum them up (scar) with metallic scratches.

Most vehicles these days have assembled hub bearings, and only old hands know what to do with older setups.

I've heard of young idiots taking an impact to tighten down these bearings...NO>>NO>>NO.

$25.00 per side is Cheap, Cheap, Cheap....unless you are only talking about installing races ONLY....and if you bring hub to them, then that's a high price for a few minutes of labor.

I install races myself, with or without a press; its not hard to do. Knock out old race, place new race in position...place flat iron across top of new race, tap evenly down until flush...then use old race to place over new with flat iron across old race, and tap further until bottomed. Then using brass drift or good punch to punch out old race (note - old race is placed over new race in same position so you have something to hit). Trick is not to scar new race.

Here's a Youtube Video; in this video, he has already knocked out the old races, which is easy to do. When you get your new races, find that tool he is using, and see if two of those seal drivers are right sized. I've never done it that way, and I have no idea if this is the way folks are doing it now.

He does have a Bearing race removal video

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 24 Jun 2014, 16:12

edelmatt wrote:I might buy this race/seal driver set

Cheaper on ebay 10pc Bearing Race Seal Driver Tool MASTER Set with Storage Case Wheel Axle NEW

edelmatt · Post by **edelmatt** » 24 Jun 2014, 23:23

Thanks for the pep talk. I just bought the driver set on eBay and a brass drift I should have all the parts/tools by early next week. Updates soon. Pep Boys won't have a crack at this. They are much as you describe them.

The only problem is that I had to shear off one of the wheel studs to get a nut off. The last mechanic must have cross threaded or overtightented that one (ironically the last mechanic was at Pep Boys). Anyway, not sure I can replace a wheel stud at home. I searched around for something like the Volvo SST for the job and found nothing. Any thoughts on that?

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 25 Jun 2014, 08:17

Brass drift and a hammer will remove those bearing races.

edelmatt · Post by **edelmatt** » 25 Jun 2014, 10:05

What do you all think of this answer regarding the sheared wheel stud?
http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/8irgh-v ... t-hub.html

I'm a bit suspect of pounding the stud while the hub is on the vehicle. That seems like it could damage steering/suspension components.

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 25 Jun 2014, 11:54

edelmatt wrote:shear off one of the wheel studs to get a nut off.

I have not done one in years, but generally speaking, the stud is pressed out and a new one is installed.

Doorman sells them here.

I have no idea why there are three part numbers.

Studs use to not cost much, but if parts store does not carry, they have to order them, and may charge shipping to you.

See what new hub cost, and see what stud cost. Here's some at ebay

edelmatt · Post by **edelmatt** » 25 Jun 2014, 12:17

I already ordered the replacement stud. It should arrive on Friday or Monday. So would you recommend that I get it professionally done and not do it myself with a big hammer?