2003 S60 T5 - Dead DIM x 2

[HawleyTronics]

I just bought my 2003 S60 T5 a couple weeks ago for only $1,500, knowing that the steering was tight and the gauges didn't work. I already own two Volvos, so I was confident that these issues were easily repairable by someone like me who was familiar with Volvos (or so I thought). The steering was easy to fix after lubing the steering knuckles with some PB Blaster. The gauges have me puzzled though. I have researched in forums for Volvos and have learned a lot in return. Most pointed to getting the gauges rebuilt since there were probably breaks in the circuits causing the gauge cluster (DIM) to go blank and stop functioning. The gauges didn't work at all. Only the Check Engine light would come on momentarily upon starting the car and it going through its "diagnostics".

I pulled the gauge cluster out and was ready to try reflowing the DIM's circuit board, but found a "Rebuilt" sticker on the back and another sticker that had the name of the company that rebuilt it, along with the date, and an 800 number. The date was 4/10/14, meaning that the DIM was rebuilt only about 3 months ago. When I called the 800 number, the guy was also surprised that it wouldn't be working after only a short time. I was suspicious but went with the notion that I either needed this one repaired, again, or I could simply find a replacement as long as it had the same part number. Well, I opted to try and find a used one instead of going through the trouble of shipping mine, waiting for it to be rebuilt and then shipped back. I found one on eBay that had ALL 4 of the correct numbers, except for the serial number of course. Plus he stated in the listing that it worked perfectly. I bought it with the notion that I could simply plug it in and then I could go get my car inspected, seeing as I had already registered it and only have 5 days to get it inspected.

So, the plan did not pan out, and the replacement I bought on eBay did not work either, bringing me to believe that it might be a fuse/relay somewhere, or maybe even an issue with wiring or harness. I inspected the harness coming from the back of the DIM, but like everything else with this car, everything looks brand new with no visible fraying or cuts. So I am at a loss as to why the gauges, 2 sets now, won't work. It is evident that it is beyond the gauges and the problem may be a bit deeper.

I called a Rhode Island stealership and talked to a tech. He said that you have to have the DIM re-programmed after it was rebuilt (for around $175) in order for it to work. I told him about how both of the DIMs have matching numbers and I've read in a few places that people have bought DIMs right off of ebay (like I did) that had matching numbers and that they were plug-and-play and that the only issue would be that the mileage would revert to the higher value of either the CEM or the DIM. I asked if there was a way they could look up my VIN and tell me if the DIM that was in the car when I bought it is the original OEM one that came with the car or if the DIM itself was a replacement and he said no, they cannot do that.

I asked him if they can test the DIMs if I brought them to them and he said they don't have any way of testing them other than installing them into the car and seeing if they work, even after they re-program them. I then asked him how the rebuilding facilities are able to tell you that it was tested and passed and he said he doesn't know. This sounds screwy to me since this is supposed to be a Volvo dealership of which you would think they would have all of the necessary diagnostic/testing equipment...

So I have a problem with shelling out another $175 to have the DIM re-programmed, especially if it still doesn't work. He said there's no refund for the programming charge because whether it works or not they still have to go through the programming process (even though I'm sure all they do is connect it to a computer and run a script). And how do they "program" the DIM? What does "programming" the DIM do? Is it something they do with VIDA? (I thought they cannot program a used DIM?)

Anyway, are there any other things in the car that can cause the DIM to not function, like maybe a relay, fuse, CEM, wire harness, etc?

I would like to pinpoint the problem instead of throwing money at guessing and I need to eliminate all other possibilities before doing anything else with the DIMs I have...

And yes, to address the question of how the car runs, the car does run. In fact, it runs great! The gauges just don't work. Only the check engine light comes on momentarily when the car is started. That seems to be the only thing functional in the DIM, which brings me to believe that the DIM must be getting some sort of power in order to light the CEL.

By the way, I've visually inspected the CEM and it's relays and the relays all seem OK. (I swapped some around and determined that the relays are fine.)

I even pulled the carpet from in front of the drivers seat and checked out the wiring harnesses under and to the side and those all look like new, like everything else with this car. But, I did notice that as the harness that comes from the seat goes under the dash, there is a white wire that splits into two white wires that go to the CEM, and there's a green wire that is split into two green wires that go to the CEM. They have been soldered and electrical taped but look to be done profressionally or by the factory. Are you guys familiar with this or does this indicate a repair job has been done at one point?

I have also just recently called a local Volvo stealership in CT this time (I live in RI, just over the border) and asked them about doing a diagnostics check to see if there are any systems/modules that are down/defective/offline and they want to charge me $105 just to hook it up and do the diagnostics. So instead, I bit the bullet and bought a VIDA/DICE knockoff for $109 on eBay and I am awaiting for its arrival. Hopefully there are no issues with shipment and quality of the product.

Once it arrives, I will be setting up a computer system in my garage just for testing purposes and I will run my own diagnostics. "F" the stealerships! I will only resort to them for actual programming as I don't think I will be able to do that with the DICE/VIDA knockoff.

I figured this would be a more logical way to address my issues, mainly because I own 3 Volvos, 1996 and newer, and this VIDA/Dice should be useful with all 3 vehicles and I won't have to pay the stealerships to run a simple diagnostics test any time something goes funky with one of them.

So, with all that being said, please read this carefully and give me some input if you have any. It would be nice to hear if I'm going about things the right way as well as any additional suggestions/ideas.

[oragex]

As for the replacement off Ebay, I remember when I put a replacement one in my car, with the exact same numbers, it didn't work right away. It was all dark. I left it in the car for a while with the engine off, then the thing came to life. Now idea why. Maybe it's good to disconnect the battery overnight (have ignition key in position II before reconnecting the battery).

As for the one that you already had in the car, that was showing a check engine, that one is busted. Either the repair didn't last, either they damaged something inside.

Reprogramming goes like this: when the dealer installs a new DIM, it has to be programmed to accept the actual car miles. By several accounts, no dealer will be willing to program a used DIM. But if they do, it will probably be only for the miles again. When you put a used DIM in your car, it will show the miles from the donor car, not your actual car miles.

Installing a used DIM with the same four numbers doesn't require any programming, if it's not for the miles. It will work without programming, but it will show donor's car miles. Your actual miles are still stocked inside the cars main computer and can be accessed.

[abscate]

That hack wiring doesn't sound good. Get the wiring diagram and look do for that green while and get that sorted out

[doublebug]

CEL light is connected directly to the engine module that is why it is only bulb that works.

The original DIM can have corrupted firmware. In some cases it cannot be programmed by dealer because it needs some trick to do that. In this case DIM won't answer for Vida in both modes (diagnostics and programming). Used module from eBAY can have firmware for different model year so it also won't work.

When your DiCE arrives contact me. I will check if it can be used for programming. If everything ok I can check what software is installed in the both modules if it is corrupted and so on and re-flash if necessary and also transfer miles from old unit to the new one.

So far at least check if you have other issued besides DIM.

[HawleyTronics]

What I'll do is setup my VIDA computer to also run Teamviewer so that if someone who knows the VIDA software well enough wants to connect remotely to the computer running VIDA, they can. I still haven't heard back from the seller of the DICE knockoff and I have not yet received any notice of the item shipping, so I am hoping this is not a sign of me having trouble with overseas ass-clowns...

[chrism]

If the Vida/Dice thing doesn't work out, you might try the route I took. I called Southern Vo-Vo (MVS advertiser) and gave him the year and model of my car and started reading the numbers off of the back of the DIM until he said "Stop! That's all I need." So I don't really know which of the numbers are key to match-up, but he knew. 20 minutes later he called back and said he had a match - $115 including shipping (3 years ago). And is was guarenteed to work for some nominal period of time like 6 or 12 months. It works perfectly except as was mentioned before, the displayed mileage was that of the donor car. No big deal to me - I just recorded the delta in my maintenance log so I can always figure out exactly where I stand. Also, count on having the SRS light reset at the dealer or a well-equipped Volvo independent mechanic after the install unless your Vida/Dice will clear it. If you don't turn the key on while the DIM is out of the car it might not trigger the SRS light, but don't hold your breath.

Good luck.

[HawleyTronics]

Ok so I bought and paid for the VIDA/DICE knockoff on the 15th, and the item had not shown any activity on it as far as shipping was concerned, so I contacted the seller yesterday, thinking that 2 days was enough time to give them before contacting them about the item. I basically asked if it had shipped yet and when I should expect it. I received a message from the seller last night...

Dear friend,
Really sorry for the inconvenience provided.
Just find out that your item did not go through the customs checking, and it would be send back to us soon.
Really sorry the shipping company did not notice us asap of this issue, and we delayed to notice you this.

But please do not worry, I may not let you suffer any lose, and if you can not wait any longer, how about we issue you a full refund?
And in order to compensate you, I would like to apply a coupon for you for your next time purchasing.l

So please kindly advice us your idea on this issue, if you can wait, we would like to rearrange the item for you asap.

I replied with a message asking what is needed for me to receive the item, so hopefully they will respond with something that makes sense. Or should I just ask for the refund and buy from a different seller? This seller may not be a bad seller, but if you are going to have trouble shipping it to me right off the bat, then that may be my sign to take the refund and run. I may just wait and see what they say in regards to me asking what else is needed...stay tuned...

[abscate]

Ask them to reship, but watch your payment method carefully over next few weeks for any unauthorized activity. Its pretty typical to get this stuff dealing with Pac Rim countries - even Business to Business.

[draser]

Before spending any more on anything I'd do basic voltage checks at connectors to make sure voltage and grounds are correct. Wire diagram needed.

[precopster]

Don't use this seller. Get a refund and go to AliExpress. Buy from Shenzhen Zeuss. Mandy there has sent multiple items to me and she knows how to get around the customs problems currently in China. She just sent an Autel EU-702 to my customer in Perth on the 17th July and it has already landed in Perth Australia.

BTW China's EMS postal service currently has an embargo on electronic goods and many courier companies use the EMS postal facilities. I recently had goods sitting in China for 3 weeks waiting for a clearance that wouldn't occur. Problems stemmed from contraband goods being sent to Russian Federation through the regular postal service.

DHL and UPS have both found ways around this.