Boy oh Boy I broke it.
Installed a new tune up kit from IPD, Bosch cap & rotor, Bougland Wires, Volvo Plugs.
Soon as I started it up it began A Bad Hard Miss and throwing Random miss, Cyl 4/5 miss and running rough. Pulled the new plugs and found one was cracked. Installed new plugs and Still a Rough Hard miss. Put everything back I took off Except the Bosch Cap & rotor, no change. What did I break ?
1998 V70 AWD Miss after install Tune Up Kit
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TheLoneAviator
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 14 August 2014
- Year and Model: V70 1998 AWD
- Location: Texas
- Been thanked: 1 time
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TheLoneAviator
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 14 August 2014
- Year and Model: V70 1998 AWD
- Location: Texas
- Been thanked: 1 time
Alright, Thanks a bunch. I'm gonna have to tell on my self. I had 4 & 5 swapped. What I get for working fatigued & in the dark. IPD still owes me some new plugs, I was very careful on Torque with an aluminum head, looks like the warehouse might have dropped it.
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scot850
- Posts: 14899
- Joined: 5 April 2010
- Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
- Has thanked: 1853 times
- Been thanked: 1714 times
As you will often hear, if it wasn't broken before, then go back to the start and re-look at what you have done.
Did you check the spark plug gaps before install? If not check they are gapped to 0.028" (28 thou), and some guys say a turbo should be 0.026". I run NA or turbo at 28 thou and not had issues.
As you cracked a spark plug, there is perhaps something in how you do the install that is causing the issues. Have you replaced spark plugs before (not trying to insult here as I don't know your skill level)?
People will give you different advice on how to do a job, so I will give you my process.
1) Having removed the cam cover and leads, I use a snug fitting plug socket and hand wrench to loosen the plugs. If they are tight, loosen a few turns and then tighten again as this will help clean the threads somewhat, and reduce the chance of stripping the thread.
2) Having remove a spark plug, I lay it down in a sequence so I can check how they have been burning and also check for any abnormalities in the threads.
3) Some guys may shudder at this, but I like to use a small pick of cloth and plug the plug hole with it (leaving enough to pull back out!!). Using a lone flat screw driver, I carefully clean the seating area of the spark plug in the head to remove and gunge or oil. This will help ensure the plug seats properly when you fit the new one. I dampen a piece of cloth with WD40 to allow me to remove the gunge, and minimising any falling into the plug hole.
4) Remove the cloth in the plug hole, and using a long screw driver and a piece of cloth over the end of it (damped with WD40) I gently turn it into the threaded plug hole to clean the threads.
5) Having checked the plug gap, I carefully insert the plug into the plug socket which holds it in place. Using just the socket and an extension bar, I lower it carefully into the plug recess. to make sure I don't bump the electrode. Again, carefully 'feel' for the end of the plug entering the threaded hole, and slowly, rotate CW until you feel the thread 'catch'. I turn the plug in as far as I can by hand using only the extension shaft to make sure I don't cross thread it or strip the thread. I like to use spark plug lube, others will say you don't need it. Call me old fashioned, but as an engineer, putting a steel thread into an alloy head, will cause a reaction over time with heat. So this is my preference.
6) Finally I use a ratchet to tighten until I feel some resistance. Then using a torque wrench, tighten the plugs to 25NM (18 ft/lb). Again many will say you don't need to do that and tighten by feel. Again, I prefer to work with the numbers, they were developed for a reason!
Sorry if this is too detailed, but after 40 years and no stripped threads, I feel it is justified!
Now, assuming this all is now good, revisit the distributer cap and rotor arm. Remove the cap, and check the rotor arm is not cracked and is seating correctly. Check the inside of the cap and make sure all the contacts as un-damaged, especially the carbon center contact. If all is well, re-fit the plastic shield over the rotor arm, and make sure the little tab is aligned with the distributer body cut out. Also make sure the rotor cap is fitted so the cut out tab is aligned. I have found it possible to fit it 120 degrees out! Re-tighten the 3 distributor cap retaining screws.
Next, look at the leads.
If memory serves, the distributor covers for the 5 cylinder Volvos have a number marked beside each plug. If not, go back through them and make sure they are fitted in the correct order. It is easy to mix them up and get the firing order wrong. If you need to know which plug goes where, I will try to get the info for you, but I don't have a car with a distributor any longer to take a picture. Make sure all the leads are pushed fully home. You can feel then clipping in place as they are pushed home.
Finally, refit each lead, making sure it is going to the correct plug. Don't bother re-fitting the cover until you have re-tested the running to save having to remove it again.
If you are still having problems check that you didn't move the wire for the cam position sensor too close to the distributor. The distributor signal masks the cam position signal when too close to it and can cut the engine altogether or make it run rough.
If you are still having issues, get back and we can try to help further.
Good luck!
Neil.
Did you check the spark plug gaps before install? If not check they are gapped to 0.028" (28 thou), and some guys say a turbo should be 0.026". I run NA or turbo at 28 thou and not had issues.
As you cracked a spark plug, there is perhaps something in how you do the install that is causing the issues. Have you replaced spark plugs before (not trying to insult here as I don't know your skill level)?
People will give you different advice on how to do a job, so I will give you my process.
1) Having removed the cam cover and leads, I use a snug fitting plug socket and hand wrench to loosen the plugs. If they are tight, loosen a few turns and then tighten again as this will help clean the threads somewhat, and reduce the chance of stripping the thread.
2) Having remove a spark plug, I lay it down in a sequence so I can check how they have been burning and also check for any abnormalities in the threads.
3) Some guys may shudder at this, but I like to use a small pick of cloth and plug the plug hole with it (leaving enough to pull back out!!). Using a lone flat screw driver, I carefully clean the seating area of the spark plug in the head to remove and gunge or oil. This will help ensure the plug seats properly when you fit the new one. I dampen a piece of cloth with WD40 to allow me to remove the gunge, and minimising any falling into the plug hole.
4) Remove the cloth in the plug hole, and using a long screw driver and a piece of cloth over the end of it (damped with WD40) I gently turn it into the threaded plug hole to clean the threads.
5) Having checked the plug gap, I carefully insert the plug into the plug socket which holds it in place. Using just the socket and an extension bar, I lower it carefully into the plug recess. to make sure I don't bump the electrode. Again, carefully 'feel' for the end of the plug entering the threaded hole, and slowly, rotate CW until you feel the thread 'catch'. I turn the plug in as far as I can by hand using only the extension shaft to make sure I don't cross thread it or strip the thread. I like to use spark plug lube, others will say you don't need it. Call me old fashioned, but as an engineer, putting a steel thread into an alloy head, will cause a reaction over time with heat. So this is my preference.
6) Finally I use a ratchet to tighten until I feel some resistance. Then using a torque wrench, tighten the plugs to 25NM (18 ft/lb). Again many will say you don't need to do that and tighten by feel. Again, I prefer to work with the numbers, they were developed for a reason!
Sorry if this is too detailed, but after 40 years and no stripped threads, I feel it is justified!
Now, assuming this all is now good, revisit the distributer cap and rotor arm. Remove the cap, and check the rotor arm is not cracked and is seating correctly. Check the inside of the cap and make sure all the contacts as un-damaged, especially the carbon center contact. If all is well, re-fit the plastic shield over the rotor arm, and make sure the little tab is aligned with the distributer body cut out. Also make sure the rotor cap is fitted so the cut out tab is aligned. I have found it possible to fit it 120 degrees out! Re-tighten the 3 distributor cap retaining screws.
Next, look at the leads.
If memory serves, the distributor covers for the 5 cylinder Volvos have a number marked beside each plug. If not, go back through them and make sure they are fitted in the correct order. It is easy to mix them up and get the firing order wrong. If you need to know which plug goes where, I will try to get the info for you, but I don't have a car with a distributor any longer to take a picture. Make sure all the leads are pushed fully home. You can feel then clipping in place as they are pushed home.
Finally, refit each lead, making sure it is going to the correct plug. Don't bother re-fitting the cover until you have re-tested the running to save having to remove it again.
If you are still having problems check that you didn't move the wire for the cam position sensor too close to the distributor. The distributor signal masks the cam position signal when too close to it and can cut the engine altogether or make it run rough.
If you are still having issues, get back and we can try to help further.
Good luck!
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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