96 855T Need to reseal cam cover

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 24 Aug 2014, 20:27

Hey guys!

Quick summary of past stuff:
1. Did a valve job last year, afraid I may not have used enough anaerobic sealant (Permatex gasket maker), and also cracked the cam lobe on the rear of the head. I reinserted the cracked piece and everyone told me since it was on the outside of the cam seal, it should hold.
2. The leak is getting worse, smoking alot and losing about a quart of oil every month or month and a half. I did recently switch to 0w40 though.
3. Just replaced the distributor cap and noticed a bit of oil on the bottom of the old one, and behind that little plastic ring/sleeve underneath. On the inside bottom of the old cap, same deal, small amount of oil. The CPS looked a little greasy too, and looking down past it at the PCV pipes and the PTC, that whole area of the engine is grimey with oil.
4. The rear of the engine is where the leak looks really bad though. Based on the buildup of gunk where the oil is burning on the exhaust manifold, I don't think it's dripping around from the rear cam seal. Here's the video:

I guess I'm just looking for confirmation that pulling the cam cover, inspecting, cleaning and resealing is the next step. Hoping that you guys will tell me I'm misdiagnosing this and there is some other easier fix, but I'm not hopeful.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 Aug 2014, 21:18

The picture tells the story.

This time use the pink Volvo stuff, it will never leak, and don't get carried away with it and block the oil passages.

...Lee

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 24 Aug 2014, 22:00

Lee, any tips to make this one go a little faster?

I'm pretty well versed in stripping all the subsystems off the block, just dreading having to do it again.

I think I may use this job as an opportunity to install an R exhaust manifold while the cover is off.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 Aug 2014, 22:34

It will go faster just based on familiarity the second time around.

Do you have the cam adjustment tools? The camshaft holders and pull-down tools help to speed things along.

...Lee

Post by **JDS60R** » 24 Aug 2014, 22:44

Can you clean it off and then see where its being fed from? Sometimes oil can travel down that seal line from some odd places.

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 24 Aug 2014, 22:55

I will clean it up tomorrow and check it out again.

I don't have any of the cam tools... :/

Post by **rspi** » 25 Aug 2014, 05:17

If you are doing the cover why do you need to clean the block? You should be able to remove the cover, clean it, and reinstall it in 2 or 3 hours. Make sure the mating surfaces are super clean and oil free.

Post by **erikv11** » 25 Aug 2014, 09:14

futureboycolin wrote:...
I think I may use this job as an opportunity to install an R exhaust manifold while the cover is off.

I think I would pull the manifold first if you are going to do it now, then open and close the cover separately to keep it clean in there, then put it all back together with the new manifold.

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 25 Aug 2014, 10:23

Erik, so if I'm combining jobs, do everything else first, then do the cam cover last. I can see why, especially with old rusty parts coming off and flaking everywhere.

Also, is there a no fuss way to clean off the old gasket? Last time I used a scotchbrite and acetone (on the cam cover side only, thankfully) and don't want to mess with having to clean out all that scotchbrite dust, or worry about it getting in the valves or oil passageways.

Post by **erikv11** » 25 Aug 2014, 12:15

You could put the new manifold on last, may give you a little more space to deal with the cam cover. But yeah, I am thinking take it off first.

Agreed I do not like to use Scotchbrite pads. For me, the key to removing the anaerobic sealant has been a good chemical gasket remover. The last time I did a cam cover was last summer, and I used the last bit of quality gasket remover. It is a product from AST that was discontinued. But I see it now on this website, it is product number 17052, maybe it is available again (http://www.staniosindustrial.com/Anti_S ... 15&show=10). I will go check the machine shop supply house where I used to buy it, and buy a few cans if they have it just to have it down the road. It works very well but because of that I am very careful with it. I previously tried the Permatex product about two years ago and it was useless on anaerobic sealant.

I spray on the AST Gasket Remover, let it sit 15 minutes or so, then wipe it away with a vertical razor blade. The chemical turns the hard gasket into goo and you get a hassle-free, shiny surface. The cover you can just do on a piece of cardboard in the yard then wash it down with degreaser or sometihng when you are done, the engine side you will want to protect the car from any overspray. Use paper towels, fab up a couple little cardboard shields while you spray. I have never damaged other engine parts etc, the stuff is not radioactive or anything, but it would likely damage paint. Change the oil when you get it back together.