2002 V40 S40 Front Wheel Bearing Replacment Process?
2002 V40 S40 Front Wheel Bearing Replacment Process?
Hello, What is the process to replace a wheel bearing on my 02 V40? I have replaced cartridges on K-cars and even made my own tools to do this. I have searched but unable to find anything. Thanks in advance for your help. - B-
I will venture off and document the process. This is the best I could find from another site:
The front wheel bearing is pressed on.
You will need to remove the knuckle from the car.
Remove the wheel.
Disconnect the tie rod end.
Loosen the axle.
Remove the control arm.
Unbolt the brake caliper bracket.
Unbolt the strut.
Then use a hydraulic press to remove the old bearing and install a new one.
The front wheel bearing is pressed on.
You will need to remove the knuckle from the car.
Remove the wheel.
Disconnect the tie rod end.
Loosen the axle.
Remove the control arm.
Unbolt the brake caliper bracket.
Unbolt the strut.
Then use a hydraulic press to remove the old bearing and install a new one.
The process was not fun. If you know you are not going to do it for several days, make sure you apply lots of PB Blaster or other effective penetrant to all of your studs, fasteners and toward the CV to knuckle interface. I did this on the ground and it took 8 hours total. Now that I have done this before, it should take less than 3 as I would cut to the chase on the trial and errors.
Here is my summary:
1) Jack up car, use jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the center cap and reinstall the wheel and lower to the ground.
2) Loosen/remove the axle shaft nut using a 35mm socket. If you have the car jacked up, the other wheel will rotate. If the wheel is on the ground, you won't be transferring the load through the transmission or differential.
3) Jack up the car, apply jack stands and remove the wheel. Tighten at least one nut to the disc. Measure the camber angle using the surface of the disk. This won't be very useful if your bearing is really bad - but it will get you close. Remove the caliper and disc. The caliper should be hanging from the strut or the brake line bracket and out of your way for doing the rest of the service.
4) Spray the studs with WD40 and then Loosen the nuts to the ball joint and tie rod end. Leave the nuts to the end of the thread. I don't know of another way to remove the ball joint nut except for using an open end wrench. Otherwise, wait until after step 7.
5) Use a heavy hammer and large drift to loosen the tapered stud of the tie rod end. Remove the nut and tie rod end. You may need to use a pry bar to maintain a load on the stud to remove the nut. Remove the speed sensor.
6) Remove the strut fasteners and rotate the knuckle forward to disengage from the knuckle. You may need to use a pry bar to lower the suspension arm so that the strut end clears the CV joint.
7) Extract the drive shaft from the bearing. You may need to pound out the shaft from the bearing if the previous service did not have grease or RTV applied to the spline. Fortunately this car was easy. I have worked on others that did not.
Remove the ball joint stud. I placed a jack stand under the hub when pounding on the studs. With the ball joint stud exposed, use a heavy drift (punch) that is 13-20 mm in diameter and heaving hammer to strike the ball joint stud/nut. Otherwise you need to use a splitting fork. That will likely cut the boot and can prematurely wear the ball joint.
9) Using a press, support the knuckle at its perimeter. With the dust shield in place, the only places you can grab are the strut and ball joint. You can put a stack of heavy washers between the shield and control/steering arm. Now you can support the underside of the shield without worry of bending or crushing it.
10) Press out the center hub. This is the easiest part. The inner races may separate. I have seen them get extracted through the bearing and one half stay on the hub. If this happens, use a Dremel tool with a thin cut off wheel to make two or three cuts at the perimeter of the race without cutting the shaft. Hit the race with a ball peen hammer and the race should crack or shatter.
11) Now you are at the toughest part - removing the darned snap ring. You will need a heavy duty snap ring pliers if it is not rusted in place. Although this car spent most of its life in California, the snap ring was securely rusted into the knuckle. I tried to use screw drivers and chisels to loosen it without success. I ended up breaking one of the snap ring tabs when driving it with a punch. After applying several doses of PB Blaster and heat using a torch, nothing moved. I also bead blasted the assembly with the hope that removing the rust would make it easier. I also pressed on the ring using a punch, air chisel/hammer and hydraulic press without any success. Fortunately, I have access to a milling machine. I milled a slot inside the wheel speed sensor and tangent to the ring +0.5mm. In other words, I cut into the retainer ring a small amount. You can also use a die grinder to cut some relief and then drill a hole tangent to the ring. With this new access point from the speed sensor opening, I used a 5/32 drift and loosened the ring. Now I was able to use two different screw drivers to inch my way around the perimeter and pry the ring from its groove. This step took 4 hours of trial and error.
12) Press the bearing out from the knuckle. Since my bearing was pretty rusty, I made sure that I supported the knuckle very close to the bearing that would only allow the bearing to move about 5 mm. Once I broke it loose (at 6-8 tons of force!), I felt confident to support the knuckle at its perimeter and give room for the bearing to be extracted from the knuckle.
13) Once the bearing was freed, I bead blasted the knuckle, snap ring and hub, buffed the edges and cleaned up my pry marks from removing the snap ring using a Scotchbrite wheel on a small die grinder. Cleaning and deburing will make reassembly easier. I also painted the parts for appearance.
14) Press the bearing into the knuckle. Apply grease to both the bearing OD and knuckle ID. Make sure you have an old bearing or mandrel that captures the outside diameter. Press until it is at the end of travel into the pocket. I applied about 3 tons of force to make sure it was seated.
15) Apply grease to the bearing ID and hub OD. Support the knuckle/bearing by the inner race using a large socket or other mandrel. Line up the hub and press it into the bearing. You are now ready to reassemble.
16) Check the drive shaft to make sure the splines are clean and the mating face is free of corrosion or RTV. I used a Scotchbrite wheel on a small die grinder to buff the bearing mating surface clean. I then applied a thin film of silicone to the flange before assembly. Apply grease or never seize to the spline and nut threads. Install knuckle/bearing upon the shaft. Install the nut using hand torque.
17) Place the knuckle on the ball joint stud. Install the nut. You may need to support the suspension arm with a block while you apply a force down on the stud through the knuckle. This will keep the stud from rotating while you secure the nut. Alternatively, you can put the nut in place as far as you can go and tighten later and insert the drive shaft into the bearing after the ball joint is tightened.
18) Connect the strut. You may need to rotate the strut and knuckle to get best alignment. Connect the strut and then jack up the suspension arm to apply a load to lock the stud into the knuckle. Now you can tighten the stud.
19) Attach the tie rod to the control arm. If you have a digital protractor, check your camber and then tighten the strut bolts.
20) Attach the speed sensor.
21) Install the disc. Apply one or two nuts and torque hand tight. This keeps the disc aligned when you install the caliper.
22) Install the caliper.
23) Pre-torque the drive shaft nut to hand tight.
24) Install the wheel, pre-torque the lug nuts.
25) Jack up, remove jack stand and lower the car. Once on the ground, torque the lug nuts and axle shaft to specs. Install center cap and test drive.
Hopefully this is helpful. I took a few photos and will post when I figure out how to do that. The car drives and sounds significantly better. I am glad I did the work!
Here is my summary:
1) Jack up car, use jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the center cap and reinstall the wheel and lower to the ground.
2) Loosen/remove the axle shaft nut using a 35mm socket. If you have the car jacked up, the other wheel will rotate. If the wheel is on the ground, you won't be transferring the load through the transmission or differential.
3) Jack up the car, apply jack stands and remove the wheel. Tighten at least one nut to the disc. Measure the camber angle using the surface of the disk. This won't be very useful if your bearing is really bad - but it will get you close. Remove the caliper and disc. The caliper should be hanging from the strut or the brake line bracket and out of your way for doing the rest of the service.
4) Spray the studs with WD40 and then Loosen the nuts to the ball joint and tie rod end. Leave the nuts to the end of the thread. I don't know of another way to remove the ball joint nut except for using an open end wrench. Otherwise, wait until after step 7.
5) Use a heavy hammer and large drift to loosen the tapered stud of the tie rod end. Remove the nut and tie rod end. You may need to use a pry bar to maintain a load on the stud to remove the nut. Remove the speed sensor.
6) Remove the strut fasteners and rotate the knuckle forward to disengage from the knuckle. You may need to use a pry bar to lower the suspension arm so that the strut end clears the CV joint.
7) Extract the drive shaft from the bearing. You may need to pound out the shaft from the bearing if the previous service did not have grease or RTV applied to the spline. Fortunately this car was easy. I have worked on others that did not.
Remove the ball joint stud. I placed a jack stand under the hub when pounding on the studs. With the ball joint stud exposed, use a heavy drift (punch) that is 13-20 mm in diameter and heaving hammer to strike the ball joint stud/nut. Otherwise you need to use a splitting fork. That will likely cut the boot and can prematurely wear the ball joint.9) Using a press, support the knuckle at its perimeter. With the dust shield in place, the only places you can grab are the strut and ball joint. You can put a stack of heavy washers between the shield and control/steering arm. Now you can support the underside of the shield without worry of bending or crushing it.
10) Press out the center hub. This is the easiest part. The inner races may separate. I have seen them get extracted through the bearing and one half stay on the hub. If this happens, use a Dremel tool with a thin cut off wheel to make two or three cuts at the perimeter of the race without cutting the shaft. Hit the race with a ball peen hammer and the race should crack or shatter.
11) Now you are at the toughest part - removing the darned snap ring. You will need a heavy duty snap ring pliers if it is not rusted in place. Although this car spent most of its life in California, the snap ring was securely rusted into the knuckle. I tried to use screw drivers and chisels to loosen it without success. I ended up breaking one of the snap ring tabs when driving it with a punch. After applying several doses of PB Blaster and heat using a torch, nothing moved. I also bead blasted the assembly with the hope that removing the rust would make it easier. I also pressed on the ring using a punch, air chisel/hammer and hydraulic press without any success. Fortunately, I have access to a milling machine. I milled a slot inside the wheel speed sensor and tangent to the ring +0.5mm. In other words, I cut into the retainer ring a small amount. You can also use a die grinder to cut some relief and then drill a hole tangent to the ring. With this new access point from the speed sensor opening, I used a 5/32 drift and loosened the ring. Now I was able to use two different screw drivers to inch my way around the perimeter and pry the ring from its groove. This step took 4 hours of trial and error.
12) Press the bearing out from the knuckle. Since my bearing was pretty rusty, I made sure that I supported the knuckle very close to the bearing that would only allow the bearing to move about 5 mm. Once I broke it loose (at 6-8 tons of force!), I felt confident to support the knuckle at its perimeter and give room for the bearing to be extracted from the knuckle.
13) Once the bearing was freed, I bead blasted the knuckle, snap ring and hub, buffed the edges and cleaned up my pry marks from removing the snap ring using a Scotchbrite wheel on a small die grinder. Cleaning and deburing will make reassembly easier. I also painted the parts for appearance.
14) Press the bearing into the knuckle. Apply grease to both the bearing OD and knuckle ID. Make sure you have an old bearing or mandrel that captures the outside diameter. Press until it is at the end of travel into the pocket. I applied about 3 tons of force to make sure it was seated.
15) Apply grease to the bearing ID and hub OD. Support the knuckle/bearing by the inner race using a large socket or other mandrel. Line up the hub and press it into the bearing. You are now ready to reassemble.
16) Check the drive shaft to make sure the splines are clean and the mating face is free of corrosion or RTV. I used a Scotchbrite wheel on a small die grinder to buff the bearing mating surface clean. I then applied a thin film of silicone to the flange before assembly. Apply grease or never seize to the spline and nut threads. Install knuckle/bearing upon the shaft. Install the nut using hand torque.
17) Place the knuckle on the ball joint stud. Install the nut. You may need to support the suspension arm with a block while you apply a force down on the stud through the knuckle. This will keep the stud from rotating while you secure the nut. Alternatively, you can put the nut in place as far as you can go and tighten later and insert the drive shaft into the bearing after the ball joint is tightened.
18) Connect the strut. You may need to rotate the strut and knuckle to get best alignment. Connect the strut and then jack up the suspension arm to apply a load to lock the stud into the knuckle. Now you can tighten the stud.
19) Attach the tie rod to the control arm. If you have a digital protractor, check your camber and then tighten the strut bolts.
20) Attach the speed sensor.
21) Install the disc. Apply one or two nuts and torque hand tight. This keeps the disc aligned when you install the caliper.
22) Install the caliper.
23) Pre-torque the drive shaft nut to hand tight.
24) Install the wheel, pre-torque the lug nuts.
25) Jack up, remove jack stand and lower the car. Once on the ground, torque the lug nuts and axle shaft to specs. Install center cap and test drive.
Hopefully this is helpful. I took a few photos and will post when I figure out how to do that. The car drives and sounds significantly better. I am glad I did the work!
-
pierremcalpine
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 18 June 2013
- Year and Model: V40 2003, V70 2010
- Location: Toronto, Canada
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 5 times
Wow, I now see why I was given the advice of just replacing the whole spindle assembly, bearing, hub and all when I had to replace my hub which had severe run-out. Good on you for getting through that blasted job!
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