Volvo XC60 Rear Brakes (Electronic Park Brake) Replacement

Post by **matthew1** » 15 Sep 2014, 11:56

MVS (now) Contributor Tiny Tim 007 hits with a beautiful DIY in PDF form for XC60 owners:

Comments? Please post them to this thread.

cwernke · Post by **cwernke** » 31 May 2015, 18:34

Where to do I purchase a spline key? After putting in the new pads do you have to re-insert the spline key and turn counter clock wise? If so how far do you turn it in. Do you know which EPB tool will work for the 2011 xc 60. Thank you for your post and information. Best regards, Chris

Post by **jimmy57** » 31 May 2015, 23:01

The tool needed is a triple square. Sometimes it is called spline but another tool style is called spline by Snap-On and some others so beware.

I have seen them at Harbor freight. You can also use a Torx 30 as it will grip and torque to turn the screw jack in caliper is low.

st8ofmind · Post by **st8ofmind** » 05 Mar 2017, 10:09

Does this work for a 2011 xc60 as well?

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 06 May 2025, 20:05

I think this thread needs to be updated. Manual retraction of the EPB is sure a great option, but in salt belt it would not be economical. Even if one would manage to remove holding bolts without damaging the plastic motor housing, I doubt the o-ring seal would be watertight upon reinstallation, so it would be best to replace it(likely special order part from volvo). In our day and age a lot of people are able to afford $110 icarsoft scanner for volvo/Saab which works great for this process(it is also a great alternative to vida or other expensive(but so capable) scanners for basic maintenance and troubleshooting). In case one is on budget-9v battery works great for this job. Simply disconnect EPB motor and with brake caliper assembled apply voltage to the male connectors at the EPB. If after couple seconds your rotor is held tight by the EPB-reverse polarity and wait until it will bottom out. (Can use 12v battery as well, but 9v with 2 short wires is way easier to come by). In addition to above, I would like to mention that in salt belt replacement of the brake hardware without prior cleaning of the bracket from all the rust will lead to quick wear of the pads and likely they will seeze soon. In reality it is best to sand blast the bracket(if able/available) vs spending hour per bracket with the drill and wire wheel attachments+ file(dremel, bench grinder whatever you have) to clean the rust. After you cleaned the rust from hardware mating places and contact area between bracket/bolt, bracket/knuckle spray those areas with your favorite lanolin based product(Krown in my case but can be fluid film, etc) and install hardware. Then proceed to install bracket with 2 new bolts(comes with oem rotor, so might be buying such) or clean old lock tight and apply new and torque to factory spec. With small brush apply thin coat of your favorite brake part lubricant(permatex, crc, etc) to brake pads hardware contact surface and corresponding metal instalation areas of brake pads(Google where to apply brake grease to a disk brake and plenty of photos will be there). Load pads into bracket and reinstal caliper. If you live in salt belt, do yourself a favor and order new guide pins and rubber boots. Chances are yours will be rusted and you will rip the boot trying to remove it from the guide pin. Yes it is money, but better to spend some money beforehand than to be without car when "simple" job turned into "Sith" moment...plus cleaning rust from guide pins takes time and may result in rough surface which will damge the boot(so better pay for new). Lubricate pins with small amount of brake grease and reinstall. Check if pins and pads move freely. Torque new bolts with lock tight to the factory spec(new bolts and brake hardware provided with oem brake pad set). If replacing rotor as well- wire wheel wheelbearing rotor contact area so no rust will be there. Apply thin coat of antiseeze(i like copper based by permatex) or a spray of lanolin based undercoating.