1998 V70 Outer tie-rod stuck to wheel hub

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 16 Sep 2014, 10:19

Hi (again!),
I am trying to extract the driver's side outer tie-rod but it is rusted into/onto the wheel hub assembly hole where the bolt from the tie rod goes through and then secured with a nut. I have tried a BFH numerous times but it does not want to budge. I have tried heat but that has not worked either. I have tried soaking it in WD 40 but nothing seems to happen with this. I have pounded the b-gizzers out of the end of the bolt to the tie-rod and that does not seem to help either. Appreciate all suggestions!

Post by **kahl** » 16 Sep 2014, 10:38

Sometimes they can be really locked into the spindle. See if you can get a ball joint separator.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Sep 2014, 11:08

5rivers - WD40 isn't the best penetrating oil - products like PB blaster are better. If you are stuck, mix oil and gas in 1:1 ratio (just a bit) and pull up the rubber boot so that you get the juice on the top of the junction of the tie rod and the knuckle.

Tapping (not bashing) the side of the tie rod coupling on the knuckle will also help sometimes. Ive seen mechanics make them magically pop out with this action.

Autozone will rent you the 'pickle fork' tool above I think

Post by **rmmagow** » 16 Sep 2014, 11:26

Or try 50/50 ATF & Acetone. I used that to break a frozen engine once. Let it soak and do like abscate said, pull up the rubber boot. Sometimes you can take two small sledge hammers and hit the sides where the tie rod connects and break it loose like that. Sledge hammers, not regular nail hammers, 3 to 5 pounders.

Post by **volvoAgX** » 16 Sep 2014, 11:47

Advice here is right on. For my 2000, PB Blaster+time and serious blows with a 4 pound hammer to the steering knuckle eventually worked. The tie rod will pop out.

skloon · Post by **skloon** » 16 Sep 2014, 13:19

Either a pickle fork or a dedicated tie rod press- I have fount that the presses work in combination with the sharp tap of a happer on the hub part when under pressure.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 17 Sep 2014, 09:21

Ok, I finally got the outer tie rod off - with heat and lots more hammering! Thanks for all your suggestions!!

ONE MORE QUESTION - the outer tie rod has TRW noted on it. But, the rack is a replacement one.
The service plate # is 5. The only outer tie rod I can find is one for an SMI rack with 16 mm threads. I have found a TRW outer tie rod with 14 mm threads. Is there a way to figure out what sort of rack I have so I can buy the correct part? And how would one measure the threads?

Post by **jimmy57** » 17 Sep 2014, 14:49

if a 14mm open wrench will just fit over the threaded inner tie rod it is 14mm, if a 16mm fits and a 14 will not then it is 16mm SMI rack.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Sep 2014, 08:29

Hope I caught you before you removed the end completely ....

Count the threads or carefully measure the distance of the tie rod from mount to hole before you remove it. If you duplicate this ( another good reason to use a TRW tie rod end) your front end will be pretty close yo alignment. Certainly enough to not kill tires in a few months. You do enough long distance driving though (personal knowledge) that I would recommend having the pros do it. I did used to do my old VWS with tape measure and string.

If you replace tie rod end exactly, just use the "dirt and corrosion" on the tie rod end to gauge where it should be.

Was your old one really loose and sloppy?

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 20 Sep 2014, 07:44

Hi abscate, I did count the number of threads before I took it off. The tie rod end bushing was torn in a spot that was not readily visible and grease had come out, plus the bellow over the steering rack on same side was separated over the inner tie rod. I had intended on just replacing the bellow, but once I cut that off, I realized the inner tie rod had become very rusted and loose. So...it took some time, but I did get the outer tie rod off. The inner tie rod took some muscle and a 5 lb hammer to the wrench to come off. The only problem now is the steering wheel is not centered (Volvo label on airbag unit is at an 10 - 4 axis). Checked the tire tread on both front tires - both are pretty equivalent - drove over some wet dirt/gravel and the car drives well (no bouncy feeling!). Figured out the car has an SMI steering rack with 16mm threads on the inner tie rod/outer tie rod connection using the 14mm and 16mm wrench method. Appreciate everyone's help!!