2000 S70 Thermostat Fluctuates and CEL

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 22 Sep 2014, 08:13

So combined with my potential ETM problems, the S70's thermostat is fluctuating heavily these past few days. I've been so worried about it I didn't even drive it today and we are considering getting rid of it for a Volkswagen Golf! It's touching my parent's nerves because we just put in money for an aftermarket radiator last month! Right now, the thermostat will fluctuate between cold and normal operating temperature, with it mainly stuck at cold or 4 o'clock position. This has me worried because I don't want the engine to overheat or screw up due to the thermostat. Then to make matters worse when I was driving home yesterday, the CEL came on. Taking the car to the shop tomorrow but is there anything I should expect? Aside from an ETM cleaning if possible, and a new thermostat?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Sep 2014, 08:28

My guess is that the code will be for the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. You have the classic symptoms. Change the thermostat while you are at it, you need to remove the thermostat cover to get to the sensor anyway.

...Lee

Post by **timmybdaddyof3** » 22 Sep 2014, 10:26

X2...
The shop that did the radiator did not also want to change the thermostat and hoses at the time?

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 22 Sep 2014, 14:23

timmybdaddyof3 wrote:X2...
The shop that did the radiator did not also want to change the thermostat and hoses at the time?

Nope! They didn't. It was $600 job too and used aftermarket radiator.

Post by **timmybdaddyof3** » 22 Sep 2014, 15:12

I'd be pissed....Book labor using genuine volvo parts is $541.51 (at our rate of $100/hr) for just the radiator...book for doing everything is about $950, we usually bill it out at around $650~$700 (I have a hard time adding the books 1.2 hours of labor to replace hoses I have already removed)- And if it doesn't say "Volvo" on it its not getting installed by us.

Unless I know the hoses are within a year old when doing a radiator job we automatically add upper and lower hoses, and t-stat (we also pull the sensor bench test it....only means it will work when we put it back together; cuz predicting there death is next to impossible)...

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 22 Sep 2014, 17:16

timmybdaddyof3 wrote:I'd be pissed....Book labor using genuine volvo parts is $541.51 (at our rate of $100/hr) for just the radiator...book for doing everything is about $950, we usually bill it out at around $650~$700 (I have a hard time adding the books 1.2 hours of labor to replace hoses I have already removed)- And if it doesn't say "Volvo" on it its not getting installed by us.

Unless I know the hoses are within a year old when doing a radiator job we automatically add upper and lower hoses, and t-stat (we also pull the sensor bench test it....only means it will work when we put it back together; cuz predicting there death is next to impossible)...

Aftermarket shop. Plus doing it in Toronto costs more than USA. Labour rate at Volvo is $140/hour. OEM radiator was quoted at I think $600 or more, and that doesn't even include tax. If I did it at a Volvo dealer, it's pretty safe to safe the total would be close to or be over $1000. I inquired about the thermostat replacement at a Volvo dealer and they told me $215!

Post by **timmybdaddyof3** » 22 Sep 2014, 17:32

we are an indie shop, and our labor rates are on the high side, but we only use factory parts or parts that are known and confirmed better.
Part numbers are different but check this out:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=52203

I would take a crack at it yourself...you have lots of support

Post by **abscate** » 23 Sep 2014, 06:22

Labor is 100 an hour
Labour is 140 an hour

That's 40 dollars an hour for you.

95-115 in Albany Ny area, probably neither cheap nor seriously urban

You canchange that sensor yourself, but you should soak the housing bolts for 3 days straight with PB blaster ( not wd40) to help loosen them up. They need time and easing fluid to get lubricated.

Use a good sharp torx bit, get it well into the socket head (clean out with an awl if necessary) and make sure you apply "pure torque " to the screw. By this, I mean apply counter pressure to the wrench at the socket to ease the "upward motion" of the socket.

Post by **rspi** » 23 Sep 2014, 09:49

Take the "u" out of labour and you might save that $40 per hour. Lol

If you don't work on this car yourself, just get rid of it. It's over 15 years old and it will always need something done.

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 25 Sep 2014, 21:51

It's the engine coolant temperature sensor going bonkers. Ozark Lee was right. Today I couldn't even start my car because it thought it was -40C. Time to get a replacement.