96 850 turbo Should I rebuild the turbo?

Post by **JimBee** » 07 Oct 2014, 20:52

I have the head off and am looking online at turbo rebuilding tutorials. It actually looks quite easy, but I have been fooled before. I actually have a 15g pulled from a boneyard '97 that has just been sitting around for a year. I could rebuild that and "just" swap it in.

But "just" how easy is it to swap it in? I tried to separate the halves with the band clamp off and it isn't coming apart. On the car will it be any easier?

The engine hasn't been smoking and the turbo hasn't leaked much, it's the cleanest I've seen. While I'm this far in, what can I check to decide whether to go for it or leave it alone?

Post by **tryingbe** » 07 Oct 2014, 21:38

If the turbo worked fine before, leave it.

Side to side shaft play in normal. If there is in and out shaft play, turbo needs to be rebuild.

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Oct 2014, 22:17

I think you will find the swap part quite easy, since you already have the head off. I have done it a few times with the engine bay all put together (OK heat shield and a few other parts must come off), even then it is only a minor hassle.

And I also agree that unless there are trouble signs, in all likelihood the turbo will last a long time yet.

It's really up to you, if you rebuild it you know it will be tight and not pass much oil. At the very least pull and check the CBV diaphragm, most of the factory ones are cracked now.

Post by **JimBee** » 07 Oct 2014, 22:30

One symptom of something that I suspected is the turbo—in addition to it doesn't boost much—is a sort of groaning sound under load, such as going up a hill. It used to throw a CEL when it did that, but with a new O2 sensor, that doesn't happen now.
Is my suspicion plausible ?

Post by **tryingbe** » 08 Oct 2014, 00:14

Unbolt the 3 bolts and check the CBV and make sure it doesn't have holes in it.

If it is

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-BOV-Bypas ... 54&vxp=mtr

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 08 Oct 2014, 08:03

As far as splitting the hot side and the cold side goes, after you remove the band clamp just give it a light smack with a hammer. There is a locater pin between the two halves that hangs up. If you rebuild it be sure to use the Genuine Mitsubishi parts.

Rebuilding the turbo isn't that bad except dealing with the huge snap ring. I had to buy a set of heavy duty snap ring pliers to get it on and off.

...Lee

Post by **JimBee** » 08 Oct 2014, 09:07

I notice the rebuilding kits come in either "flat" or a slightly domed center plate. One seller mentioned that should be designated when ordering. Is there a way to determine that without disassembling it?

Also, what about that groaning sound? Can that be from the turbo?

Post by **tryingbe** » 08 Oct 2014, 09:13

JimBee wrote:
Also, what about that groaning sound? Can that be from the turbo?

tryingbe wrote:Unbolt the 3 bolts and check the CBV and make sure it doesn't have holes in it.

If it is

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-BOV-Bypas ... 54&vxp=mtr

^

Post by **rspi** » 08 Oct 2014, 10:49

The real deal here is the fact that the stock boost gauge doesn't give much info. I was under boosting for only God knows how long. I was boosting at about 2 or 3 psi and didn't even know it. The turbo wheel itself is fine but the wastegate, bypass valve, and other issues was causing the erratic boosting.

Either learn where the boost gauge markings mean or install a boost gauge that gives real numbers so you will know when something is really wrong.