'98 S70 Axle stuck in hub <Update>

[dosbricks]

OK, Axle R&R got off to flying start but came to a quick halt. I have the caliper off and hung from the spring with an S-hook. Removed the ABS sensor. The wheels are facing straight forward. Axle nut is screwed out to be flush with spindle end. BTW, this is driver's side axle.

First I gave it a few taps with a hardwood dowel and 3lb mash hammer--nothing. So I lined up a 6x6, which on end, happened to be just the right height so as to be just below the axle. with a hardwood 2x2 lying across that so I have both hands free, I smack this sucker good with a 5lb sledge--nothing.

History: The CV boots were changed at 111k by an indy--car is now at 223K. I don't know if said indy put adhesive on the axle splines.

So I need some advice about whether I'm about to tear something up because I've neglected a step. The control arm is still fully attached which I thought would stabilize the steering knuckle. Should it be loose? Outer tie rod is still attached but I figure that is wrong and I need to remove it. Am I trying to drive the axle into the transmission? or does the axle move internally enough to let the spindle slide back just a bit? Should the axle be straight (at ride height) or cocked to the side? Am I about to damage the wheel bearing? Can I apply heat to the hub without cooking the bearing? If I have to buy a puller ($$ ) what is the correct size?

Lastly, am I in over my head here??? and just need to button it up and take it to an indy to get the CV boots changed? and hope they don't honky up my OE axles? Which have never been driven with a split boot or abused by my loving wife. Thanks.

dos

[mikealder]

The wishbone (lower strut) needs to have the pinch bolt removed and split the wishbone from the bottom of the suspension strut. I assume you have released the two bolts that secure the hub to the lower portion of the suspension strut. Once the above is done a tap is all that is needed to release the wire clip that secures the drive shaft in to the bearing housing, once released you can manoeuvre the bearing housing off the splined shaft to release the shaft from the CV joint - Mike

[dosbricks]

Mike, are you saying that there is a wire clip holding the axle spindle in the wheel bearing hub and all I have to do is free the steering knuckle up to maneuver it outward for a tap to remove the splined spindle from the bearing hub?

[mikealder]

About 5MM from the end of the drive shaft spline is a small slot in to which a circlip/ wire clip is located that retains the shaft in the bearing housing, you need to be able to move the bearing housing independent of the steering to get it away from the shaft - Mike

[dosbricks]

Are we talking about the same end of the axle? I thought just the 36mm axle nut held the drive spindle in the bearing hub. I'll screw the nut fully off and take a look in there. Hope I haven't messed something up!

[erikv11]

Perhaps Mike is talking about the 99-00 axle, the 98 does not have a clip like that.

I wouldn't touch the strut mounting bolts. Yes, you are currently trying to drive the axle into the trans.

All you need to do is release the control arm at the subframe, both bolts. Then swing the whole strut/hub assembly outward a bit, and tap (or pound) the axle out of the hub. Protect the threads on the end, did you receive a spare axle nut? I have one axle nut that I have destroyed the outside end, I always use it for removals. I don't thread it flush, but rather not quite flush to the end of the axle.

[northernlights]

Circlip is on the gearbox side of the shaft.

Disconnect the control arm and the tie rod end as the extra motion is needed. Put a jack or jackstand under the strut/spindle to support it before you completely remove the control arm so that you don't overextend the CV joints. Put nut near end to protect shaft and wack with giant hammer and block of wood. They may have put spline glue on it, but a few solid blows will go a long way.

You can either remove the pinch bolt at the spindle or the two bolts at the frame to disconnect the control arm. If you disconnect the frame side bolts then you need to preload them before you retorque, e.g. final torque with wheel on the ground, not hanging in the air. The pinch bolt doesn't require preload.

[mecheng]

Or release control arm at the knuckle. One bolt then hammer down on arm and it will come out and you don't have to use the preload tightening procedure. For max pleasure, use lots of lube of course!

[cn90]

- Don't mess with the pinch bolt near the ball joint, it is a pain. Very easy to destroy the rubber boot there if you pry to undo the ball joint.

- Undo the bolts on the bushing side of the control arms as "erikv11" said.

- Sorry I don't have Volvo photo showing the 3-jaw gear puller, but below is the photo from my 1998 BMW 528i Rear bearing DIY to show you the 3-jaw gear puller ued to push the axle inward.



PS: You may want to use some heat (propane torch), but heat only the splines for a good 1 minute to melt any metal adhesive used. Don't heat too long because the wheel bearing is right next door.

[dosbricks]

Alright guys, got it. I'll try again in the morning. All connections are soaking in PB Blaster for tonight. I'm replacing the control arms anyway, so I'll just totally remove it.

erik, yes the new GKN boots came with a new axle nut.

cn90, I'm using your updated MVS DIY printed out as a guide for changing these boots, but I must have missed a few important details getting started here. In fact, I'll print out these replies so I don't forget any of the above tips. I'll post tomorrow about how it goes...

Thanks all.