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1993 Volvo 240 wagon Front Brakes - Questions

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

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AlaskanPrincess
Posts: 5
Joined: 10 December 2013
Year and Model: 245 1993
Location: Arizona

1993 Volvo 240 wagon Front Brakes - Questions

Post by AlaskanPrincess »

:?: Happy New Year to fellow Brick lovers! Re: 1993 240 SW, about 225K miles.
Chain shop recommends work on Front and rear brakes and front suspension. THIS thread will be confined, for most part, to front brakes.
Front brake parts on their way to me: Brembro vented rotors; rotor guide pin x2; Volvo brake pads (for Girling calipers) WITH Shims. Also - brake booster check valve, brake booster check valve hose.
I did NOT order (yet!) brake light switch, brake hoses (x2), bleeder cap, brake lube or brake cleaner. Obviously I will get lube and cleaner. Should I order switch and hoses now?
Neighbor will 'do' front brakes for me, but his experience is primarily domestic vehicles - and he's never done Volvo brakes. Given that only front brakes are being done now (with rear brakes and suspension work to follow) - can front pads and rotors be replaced without bleeding brakes? (Or 'flushing'?)
Can rotors and pads be replaced without 'disturbing' the calipers???
We no longer have brick and mortar import parts retailer so I make every effort to have parts on hand before starting any R/M.
Should front hoses be replaced as well as rotors and pads? [Replacing hoses would require bleeding?]
I saw MOTIVE bleeder on IPD (with both good and bad reviews) - is it worth the investment? [Just came across 'Black label' MOTIVE bleeder - has more positive feedback than basic 'red' bleeder.]
How much FLUID should I have on hand (if brakes aren't bled, versus if they ARE bled??)
Check valve and hose - should I replace now as prevention?
Are there any tools that are needed - or that would just make the job easier? I don't want to risk 'contaminating' system, get air in lines, or end up with damage because proper tools aren't available to do the job. [And, since rear brakes aren't being done at same time, don't want to bleed system now, then have to bleed again say, next month!]
Looking forward to, and very much appreciate, any help! Probably best thing I did after buying Volvo was register for forum.

rgk
Posts: 257
Joined: 16 March 2009
Year and Model: Gray 88 245
Location: Yellowstone
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Post by rgk »

Yes, you can replace pads and rotors without bleeding. You will still have to remove the calipers. Don't forget new hardware.

The hoses are your choice. Yes, replacement will require bleeding. Have one large and one small bottle of DOT 4 fluid on hand.

Not sure which check valve you are referring to. If I were you, I would save any bleeding for when you absolutely have to. Then replace hoses. But be careful not to strip nuts or kink brass lines.

The upside to bleeding is getting the gunk and moisture out of your lines. I have always used a hand pump, it has worked well for me.

Don't forget Teflon on your bleeder nipples. Once in a while you may have to replace an entire nipple if it is letting in air (also a reason for the Teflon).

Good luck.
rgk -- was dickdeadly

radchadtke
Posts: 4
Joined: 12 April 2014
Year and Model: 1985 DL Wagon
Location: Wisconsin

Post by radchadtke »

I never did brakes on anything and found doing brakes on the Volvo very straight forward. I've also had good luck with the Motive bleeder.

As for the brake light switch... I wouldn't change it unless your brake lights don't work.

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