98 V70 non-turbo PCV system replacement

Post by **98v70dad** » 13 Jan 2015, 07:16

I am doing a PCV system replacemnet this weekend. I have read everything I can find on this website including the step by step instructions (turbo and non-turbo) and feel well prepared for the job. I purchased the parts a week ago at the volvo dealer and found that the parts were very reasonable which is usually not the case. There are a few questions I still have.

1) I've read that most people remove the flame trap and toss it. Comments...is this a good idea? Where is the flame trap?

2) I'm considering using 5/8 fuel hose instead of heater hose. The fuel hose is less likely to kink, but it is also probably harder to bend into the curves needed. I am in the deep south and it gets really hot under the hood in the Summer so I have my reservations about using heater hose even though its been used successfully by many others and is well documented as the way to go on this forum. Really hot equals easily kinked if there's not pressure in the hose. Anyhow, has anyone used fuel line and did you have any problems bending it to the needed path and fitting it over the attach points at the ends?

3) My car has 130K miles on it. Is there anything else that I can do more easily while I have the manifold off? I'm planning on cleaning the throttle body (slightly easier).. .anything else?

4) I've read that you need to clean the PTC (not sure I'm remembering the name right) valve on rthe turbo model. Does my non-turbo have something similar and if so where is it?

Thanks folks.

mika · Post by **mika** » 13 Jan 2015, 07:42

1) the flame trap is over by the throttle/vacuum tree area, under your throttle cover. its a twist and pull cap that has a strainer in it. your old one may not even be there. more of a "look for it and you'll figure it out" thing. on your 98 na, it is directly connected to a vacuum from the pcv system, and it often cracks and looses its connection.

2) I never have used fuel line, but I did use heater hose for my heater core replacement. The kins/bends for that job are pretty sharp, and have not ran into problems even when running the car in 110+f temps

3) Just my opinion, but snabb has a phenolinic (spl?) spacer for the intake manifold, for about half the price as IPD, to theoretically keep temps down. easy mod that appeals to me, they have a na and turbo specific one for sale. its only about 25 or 30 dollars.

4) I dont think so. I am getting ready for PVC on my 98 v70 NA and from my research from robert's videos and all the writeups, we dont have a PTC on the 98 NA

Post by **cn90** » 13 Jan 2015, 08:37

1. Yes, most people throw flame trap away.

2. Re 5/8-inch hose, fuel hose or heater hose, they are both OK.
I use heater hose for years and years in different cars, zero problems.

3. Nothing else needed when manifold off.
The throttle body can be cleaned even now, with manifold in place.

4. PTC is for turbo model.

You are good to go, considering you have read every thread on PCV thingy lol...

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 13 Jan 2015, 08:56

98v70dad wrote:
1) I've read that most people remove the flame trap and toss it. Comments...is this a good idea? Where is the flame trap?

On all of mine the flame trap is below the bayonet style clip where the PCV hoses go back into the intake snorkel. Between the MAF and the throttle body. I just get rid of them since all they seem to do is clog up with goop and cause trouble.

...Lee

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Jan 2015, 09:15

To avoid the potential problem of kinks in generic heater hose, you can use a rad hose with a pre-formed 90 degree elbow:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... p?p=352607

Pictures of the flame trap (yes just throw it away):
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=65002

Post by **98v70dad** » 13 Jan 2015, 09:22

I forgot one other thing ...... I am a little concerned about one of those many bolts holding on the intake manifold breaking off when trying to loosen them. How often does this happen or am I being concerned about nothing? Best way to ruin a otherwise perfectly good day working on a car is a broken bolt in the engine block. Since its pretty tight in there it looks like putting some penetrant on the bolts the day before will be a little difficult ..... thoughts?

Post by **98v70dad** » 13 Jan 2015, 09:29

erikv11 wrote:To avoid the potential problem of kinks in generic heater hose, you can use a rad hose with a pre-formed 90 degree elbow:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... p?p=352607

Pictures of the flame trap (yes just throw it away):
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=65002

I actually thought of the formed hose but couldn't find anything that looked long enough at advance auto. Its a creative solution. Having the part number helps a lot.

I was most worried about the driver side end. From your pictures it looks like possible kinking at the drivers side end is a non-issue. The pictures of the volvo part look like the original hose has a 45 or 90 degree bend at that end .... don't know since I don't have one to look at.

Post by **98v70dad** » 13 Jan 2015, 09:37

erikv11 that topic with the vacuum lines is awesome. I've been replacing them one at a time. replacing the vacuum lines may be a good job to take on while I'm at it. I have suspected vacuum leaks for a long time since the car doesn't get very good mileage and runs kind of rough at idle. My plan was just to replace them all at once someday. I've replaced a few that fell apart in my hand when fixing something else. I wish I had used the colored line becuase it would be easier to tell what has already been replaced. Anyhow that's a great post. I had searched for something like it about 6 months ago and didn't find it.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 13 Jan 2015, 09:38

The intake bolts are not that tight, they come off easily. Well, all except for the bottom one behind the power steering pump, it isn't tight, it is just tough to get to.

As I'm sure you have read, the bottom bolts do not need to be removed to get the manifold off, just loosened a couple of turns.

...Lee

Post by **dosbricks** » 13 Jan 2015, 10:05

98v70dad wrote:I forgot one other thing ...... I am a little concerned about one of those many bolts holding on the intake manifold breaking off when trying to loosen them. How often does this happen or am I being concerned about nothing? Best way to ruin a otherwise perfectly good day working on a car is a broken bolt in the engine block. Since its pretty tight in there it looks like putting some penetrant on the bolts the day before will be a little difficult ..... thoughts?

As Lee says, the bolts are not very tight. My Chilton's manual lists torque as 15 ft lb or 20 Nm. I used a 1/4" drive socket with a wobble extension because of not being able to get a direct angle. Highly recommend the wobble extension especially for that lower left bolt. As I recall the one on the lower far right requires a box-end wrench because of obstructed access.

If you want to use penetrant, the PB Blaster spray straw will reach in there.

Also good to hold the top bolts on a magnet reach tool so as not to drop them into the void when you insert them.