1998 V70 GLT Front crank seal keeps blowing out

dwhite66 · Post by **dwhite66** » 14 Feb 2015, 14:55

This problem started with a head gasket repair job that I had done at what was supposed to be a Volvo specialist shop. A few months later the front crank seal blew out and I had oil pouring out of the engine, literally. They were supposed to have done the PCV system too as I had requested. I had it towed back to the shop for repair of that issue but it continued to happen again. So I tackled the job myself because I have the skills. Discovered some bolts and parts missing from the other job, and some parts were not replaced that should have been. I have now replaced the crank seal at least 4 times in the past 2 months, tested for crankcase pressure and everything else I know and could find information for. Even modified the PCV system and have zero crankcase pressure now. But the seal is still blowing out after only a few miles. I have not pulled the oil pump yet but am about to do that next. I have closely inspected the crankshaft and seal race and everything else. Even tried an anaerobic sealer, but nothing has worked so far. I know someone out there has the solution for me, so this is a loud plea for HELP. I have owned and serviced all of my Volvo cars for at least 30 years now and this turbo whiteblock has me totally baffled. It runs really great otherwise and I truly love the car. Anyone got an answer for this issue?

Thank you all in advance. I have search all of the forums and everywhere else that comes to mind. This task has become so easy for me now that I have done it half a dozen times, so I may post all that I have learned, real shortcuts and all, when I do this again.

Post by **E Showell** » 14 Feb 2015, 15:45

Is it a Volvo branded seal? I have read on here of slight differences in seal sizes between Volvo oem seals and aftermarket seals.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Feb 2015, 17:04

The oil pump seal almost never goes bad so I am real surprised. Are you sure there isn't a nick or a scratch on the crankshaft? I had to Speedi Sleeve a camshaft on my son's car after the shaft got a gouge in it.

...Lee

dwhite66 · Post by **dwhite66** » 15 Feb 2015, 01:53

Thanks for the replies so far. I have closely inspected the crankshaft and seat on the oil pump with a lighted magnifier even before reinstalling a new seal. Even use a seal tool which keeps the new seal from binding on the shaft when installing. I have read several posts that state that the front seals on the white block engines rarely fail, except in the case of a clogged PCV system, I have had this happen repeatedly since having the head gasket job done just after buying the car about 1.5 years ago. At first there was in issue with the PCV system that was supposed to have been done then also. The real motivation for my doing most of my own repair work for the past 20 years or so is not only just for the savings but because of the shoddy jobs done by some of the supposedly ASE cert (dealer alternative) mechanics that I have allowed to do the work when I have chosen not to because of time or proper facility. I first discovered old hoses that should have been replaced or suggested at the time at least, and the vacuum elbow connection on the intake manifold for the PCV system had come loose which caused the high crank case pressure. I paid to have a new PCV system installed. Bolts and some parts were also missing. Do I have to say that I was truly P.O'd about that? My next step is to pull off the oil pump and service it too when installing the new seal this time so I can inspect it even more closely for any kind of damage. I have been using the Elring seals purchased from IPD and eEuroparts, which are supposedly comparable OE quality, but have seen posts regarding minor differences, I am not opposed to going with a genuine Volvo part as I usually do with most other parts anyway. Someone also posted that the SKF brand available through NAPA are also OEM standard replacement for Volvo cars. I read somewhere that they were one the OE parts manufacturer or supplier of genuine Volvo brand parts. Can anyone confirm that? I am somewhat meticulous and anal when servicing my cars, so I really want to get this done right. Thanks to a great post here, I modified my PCV system with 1/2 copper tubing and it works great for this 202k miles white block. I used clean motor oil instead of moly grease on the seals before learning that the grease is better. I had to replace a new seal that I had damaged during install (Oops!). So I am significantly improving my knowledge and skills each time I do this. I even have a Haynes service manual too for each of my Volvo wagons ('96 965; 98 V70 GLT). Just salvaged and junked my 87 245 with 426k miles, mechanically sound except for some rusting of the body that a friend of my wrecked while driving a few weeks ago. Evidently I have not done this task as well as it is supposed to be done, and I am intent upon doing it right rather than doing it over repeatedly. Even with all the cleaning that I do, I have got the job down to about 3 hours tops now from start to finish.
So, my question now is, could there be an issue with the oil pump that causing this? I am thinking of just doing a gasket and seal job on it anyway as it has likely not been done since original.

pappatho · Post by **pappatho** » 15 Feb 2015, 06:53

I'm guessing this isn't the problem, but just in case, are you putting the seal in the correct way? Flat face pointing out.

I'm assuming this is a standard style lip seal.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 15 Feb 2015, 08:30

Most of the time PCV issues cause the failure of the rear main seal much quicker than the oil pump seal. That said, since the replacements were Elring, then it may simply be that the replacement seals failed.

I can't say for sure that all Elring brand seals are "bad". My experience with Elring camshaft seals has be a 100% failure rate but that includes a grand total of six seals, all of which were camshaft seals, and one of those failures was due to the big nick that I managed to get on the exhaust cam on my son's car when I was prying the old seal out the first time. In the case of my camshaft seals they failed again fairly quickly, within six months and a few thousand miles.

When I replaced the rear main on my '94 I used an OEM part and it actually wasn't leaking but at 230,000 miles I had to change the clutch and it seemed like a no-brainer to change it while I was there. The replacement SKF or OEM seals have not again failed on me either.

If you suspect a problem with the oil pump itself I think I have a spare somewhere in the garage that was from a '99. My guess is that the part number is the same as your '98 and I would be happy to stick it in the mail and send it to you. I am at my cabin this weekend but I will try to find it when I get home so that I can get a part number off of it.

...Lee

draser · Post by **draser** » 15 Feb 2015, 12:57

On the ones you removed, was the spring on the journal? Is there any rust on the journal in front of contact area? Was the lip blown out or just leaking? Did you smear oil on journal as well? I replaced crank, cam, tranny seals on various cars using motor oil on seal and journal, never had an issue.

Post by **cn90** » 15 Feb 2015, 14:07

Whatever you do, make sure the PCV system is OK before doing the oil pump seal.
Otherwise it will be a futile exercise.

Many Volvo shops do the PCV the "standard" way, not knowing the intricacies behind it.
Examples:
- Did the shop blow through the return port on the engine block to be sure it is not clogged?
- Did they clean the oil trap?
- Some of us here use the 5/8-inch heater hose mod. I did this a few years ago, and I don't have smoking dipstick any longer.

Re Oil Pump Seal, use Volvo brand only. Volvo PN 271439 is $21. It is not expensive.
Note that:
- The Green gasket is for the 2 halves.
- Large Black O-ring is to seal the assembly against the engine block.
- The Orange seal is the typical seal for the crank shaft.

Volvo 5-cylinder: How to Replace the Head Gasket

dwhite66 · Post by **dwhite66** » 17 Feb 2015, 21:40

Many thanks to all, especially Ozarklee and Tracystruesoaps. I think I have solved the mystery now with the removal of the oil pump. I took photos that I'll post later. I am a stickler for using genuine Volvo branded parts whenever possible and available on all of cars simply because I prefer doing some tasks more correctly than doing them over. Having gotten the seals from reliable sources that I did, with the original being a genuine Volvo brand done by the shop. The oil pump gasket and seal were in bad condition, probably original, and if not, evidently has a lots of miles on it. It even looked like it had been leaking internally between the body halves because one of the main bolts was wickedly burned oil stained. So, with the help of Tracystruesoap tutorial and my trusty Haynes service manual, I easily extracted the pump, pulled it apart and cleaned it thoroughly, reassembled while waiting for the gasket set to come. I am going to replace it at a later date as it's showing signs of minor wear but all is within specs internally so I will put it back in service for now. I had completely replaced the PCV system and was within specs on crankcase pressure, so this was the only remaining logical explanation for the crank seal to keep popping out completely intact. I even reviewed all of the instructions from everywhere I could find it to make sure I hadn't missed something. How hard can it be, right? All being told, I will keep you informed on how it all goes back together and the results of my mechanic's skills.

dwhite66 · Post by **dwhite66** » 20 Feb 2015, 12:57

cn90 wrote:Whatever you do, make sure the PCV system is OK before doing the oil pump seal.
Otherwise it will be a futile exercise.

Many Volvo shops do the PCV the "standard" way, not knowing the intricacies behind it.
Examples:
- Did the shop blow through the return port on the engine block to be sure it is not clogged?
- Did they clean the oil trap?
- Some of us here use the 5/8-inch heater hose mod. I did this a few years ago, and I don't have smoking dipstick any longer.

Re Oil Pump Seal, use Volvo brand only. Volvo PN 271439 is $21. It is not expensive.
Note that:
- The Green gasket is for the 2 halves.
- Large Black O-ring is to seal the assembly against the engine block.
- The Orange seal is the typical seal for the crank shaft.

Volvo 5-cylinder: How to Replace the Head Gasket

I truly understand what you mean with the PCV system. It seems like the shop only changed the main tubing and not the oil trap. I renewed all of it with new genuine Volvo brand parts but modified the system with 1/2" copper tubing instead of the heater hose modification that I had read about. The results were excellent, which is why I was mystified by the repeated popping out of the crank seal fully intact, spring and all. The oil pump looked awful though with evidence of leaking and the green seal looked literally baked. I did notice some nicks around the lip of seal seat and have considered that the seal just is not holding in there as it is supposed to. The pump is otherwise within spec for 202,000 miles. Any other ideas?