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2006 XC70 Front Axle repacement questions

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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JimG63
Posts: 17
Joined: 18 August 2010
Year and Model: 740/1991, XC70/2006
Location: New Britain, CT

2006 XC70 Front Axle repacement questions

Post by JimG63 »

Good morning all,

After I clear the 8" of snow that we got dumped with last night, I hope to replace my driver's side axle. I've read the threads that I could find here, and videos on youtube, and it almost appears (except for the fella who broke off the axle in the tranny) that most of the work is in removing enough of the front end parts to make clearance to remove the old axle.

What I can't find anyplace, is what TORQUE ratings are recommended for the various parts, most importantly would be the bolt in the center of the hub.

Thanks in advance.

Jim

quietcoolone
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Year and Model: 04 S60 ,02 S60/V70
Location: Brooklyn, NY
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Post by quietcoolone »

This should help.

Exhaust system to turbocharger bolts: Torque to 24 Nm

Cylinder head: Tighten the screws in sequence from the center and outwards.
Stage 1: Torque to 20 Nm
Stage 2: Torque to 60 Nm
Stage 3: Tighten/rotate 130°

Manifold bolts – cylinder head side: Torque to 25 Nm

Pipe screw – coolant pipe / turbocharger: Torque to 26 Nm
Pipe screw – water heated crankcase ventilation: Torque to 26 Nm
Pipe screw – oil pressure line / turbocharger: Torque to 26 Nm
Pipe screw – oil pressure line / engine block: Torque to 38 Nm

Sub-frame nut – lower torque rod
Stage 1: Torque to 65 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 60°

Subframe screws – start on the left-hand side, then the right-hand side
Stage 1: Torque to 105 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 120°

Subframe bracket: Torque to 50 Nm

Intake manifold: Torque to 19 Nm

Catalytic converter to turbocharger: Torque to 25 Nm
Catalytic converter to exhaust system: Torque to 24 Nm

Knock sensor: Torque to 20 Nm

Piston cooling valve – piston cooling oil duct, in cylinder block: Torque to 36 Nm

Timing gear pulley – camshafts without variable valve timing): Torque to 20 Nm
Timing gear pulley – camshafts with variable valve timing): Torque to 10 Nm

Heated oxygen sensor: Torque to 45 Nm

Carrier plate
Stage 1: Torque to 45 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 50°

Intermediate section – Tighten the screws in sequence from the center and outwards.
Stage 1 M10: Torque to 20 Nm
Stage 2 M10: Torque to 45 Nm
Stage 3 M8: Torque to 24 Nm
Stage 4 M7: Torque to 17 Nm
Stage 5 M10: Tighten/rotate 90°

Torque converter: Torque to 50 Nm

Engine mounting Right side – M10x35 to cylinder block
Stage 1: Torque to 35 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 60°

Engine mounting Right side – M8x23 to cylinder block
Stage 1: Torque to 20 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 60°

Lower torque rod, transmission screw
Stage 1: Torque to 35 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 40°

Lower torque rod, sub-frame nut
Stage 1: Torque to 65 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 60°

Oil filter (environmental filter): Torque to 25 Nm
Oil trap: Torque to 15 Nm
Oil pan plug: Torque to 38 Nm
Oil pump (countersunk Allen, M6x20, holds the pump housing together): Torque to 6 Nm
Oil return line – turbocharger: Torque to 12 Nm

Oil pan (Applies to B5254T4)
Torque the screws (1, 2, 3 and 4) to 3 Nm
Torque the screws (5) 25 Nm
Then torque to 48 Nm

Oil pressure switch: Torque to 27 Nm

All drive shafts

Bolt drive shaft – wheel hub, front
Stage 1: Torque to 35 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 90°

Bolt drive shaft – wheel hub, version with rubber cone: Torque to 50 Nm
Bolt drive shaft – wheel hub, rear: Torque to 50 Nm
All gearboxes, angle gears, chain angle gears and rear axle gears

Sensors: Torque to 6 Nm

Filler plug, Level plug and Drain plug: Torque to 35 Nm

Brakes
Brake caliper in wheel spindle not XC90: Torque to 100 Nm

Brake caliper in steel wheel spindle only XC90 (M14)
1st step: Torque to 105 Nm
2nd stage: Tighten/rotate 60°

Bleed nipple in brake caliper (M10): Torque to 9 Nm

Slide pin in brake caliper, wrench size 7 mm: Torque to 27.5 Nm

Slide pin in brake caliper, wrench size 9 mm, only applies to XC90 USA and CDN: Torque to 60 Nm

Brake shield front in wheel spindle steel up to and including w918 and XC90 (M8): Torque to 20 Nm
Brake shield front in wheel spindle, aluminum not XC90 (M8): Torque to 15 Nm

Brake caliper Rear in wheel bearing housing not XC90 (M10): Torque to 60 Nm

Brake caliper rear in wheel bearing housing XC90 (M10)
1st step: Torque to 35 Nm
2nd stage: Tighten/rotate 60°

Brake shield rear in wheel bearing housing (M6): Torque to 12 Nm

Brake pipe in ABS modulator (M12): Torque to 14 Nm
Brake pipe in master cylinder (M12): Torque to 14 Nm
Brake pipe in brake hose (M10): Torque to 14 Nm
Brake hose in brake caliper (M10): Torque to 18 Nm
Brake pipe in joint fitting (M10): Torque to 14 Nm

Brake fluid reservoir in master cylinder (M5): Torque to 3.5 Nm

Bracket, ABS in hydraulic unit (M6): Torque to 8 Nm
Bracket ABS cable in shock absorber front (M5): Torque to 6 Nm
Bracket brake cable in sub-frame rear (M8): Torque to 20 Nm

Screw control module: Torque to 1.8 Nm

Mounting Brake pedal LHD automatic (M10): Torque to 30 Nm
Mounting Brake pedal RHD manual (M10): Torque to 35 Nm
Mounting Brake pedal LHD manual (M10): Torque to 40 Nm

Heat deflector plate in activation unit, RHD only (M8): Torque to 10 Nm

Suspension and Steering torque specs

Rear sub-frame in body (M12): Torque to 100 Nm

Rear cross member: Torque to 25 Nm

Spring strut/Wheel spindle
1st step: Torque to 105 Nm
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 60°

Ball joint in wheel spindle, aluminum from and incl. w919 not XC90 (M10): Torque to 40 Nm
Ball joint in link arm XC90 (M14): Torque to 100 Nm

Ball joint in control arm aluminum(M12)
1st step: Torque to 50 Nm.
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 40°

Ball joint in control arm steel M14): Torque to 100 Nm

Drive shaft ball joint
1st step: Torque to 35 Nm.
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 90°

Anti-roll bar to link: Torque to 50 Nm

Link arm front in sub-frame, front mounting (M12)
1st step: Torque to 65 Nm.
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 105°

Link arm front in sub-frame, rear mounting (M14)
1st step: Torque to 105 Nm.
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 180°

Lock nut outer steering joint against inner steering joint (M14): Torque to 70 Nm

Return hose in steering gear (M18): Torque to 25 Nm

Screw for steering wheel – steering column (M14)
1st step: Torque to Nm
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 30°

Steering wheel lock in steering column (M8): Torque to 18 Nm

Dirt deflector in longitudinal stay (M8): Torque to 10 Nm

Lower steering column/steering shaft wing screw – lock nut (M8) : Torque to 30 Nm
Lower steering shaft joint to steering gear locking screw (M8) : Torque to 25 Nm


Tie rod, inner nut: Torque to 80 Nm
Tie rod’s ball joint to steering gear: Torque to 100 Nm

Steering arm/tie rod end in wheel spindle steel: Torque to 70 Nm

Steering joint in wheel spindle aluminum
1st step: Torque to 50 Nm
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 40°

Steering gear: Torque to 50 Nm

Support plate: Torque to 50 Nm

Pressure line to steering gear (M16): Torque to 25 Nm

Pressure hose in pump (M16): Torque to 32 Nm

Cross member: Torque to 25 Nm

Heat shield plate in steering gear (M5): Torque to 6 Nm
Rear wheel hub in wheel bearing housing (M12)
Step 1: Torque to 20 Nm
Step 2: Torque to 45 Nm
Step 3: Angle-tighten 60°

Drive shaft in front wheel hub (M10)
Step 1: Torque to 35 Nm
Step 2: Angle-tighten 90°

Tire pressure sensor in rim: Torque to 8 Nm
Tire pressure sensor in valve: Torque to 1,4 Nm

Front wheel hub in steering arm (M12)
Step 1: Torque to 20 Nm
Step 2: Torque to 45 Nm
Step 3: Angle-tighten 60°

Wheel in hub (M14)
Step 1: Torque to 20 Nm
Step 2: Torque to 140 Nm

Anti-roll bar link in shock absorber front (M12): Torque to 90 Nm
Anti-roll bar link in anti-roll bar front (M10): Torque to 60 Nm
Anti-roll bar link to spring strut: Torque to 50 Nm

Shock absorber bearing rear upper in shock absorber (M12): Torque to 60 Nm
Shock absorber bearing front upper in shock absorber (M14): Torque to 70 Nm

Shock absorber in steering arm (M14)
Step 1: Torque to 105 Nm
Step 2: Angle-tighten 60°

Spring front, retaining nut: Torque to 70 Nm
Spring strut in body: Torque to 25 Nm

Stud at exhaust port, manifold, turbocharger: Torque to 20 Nm

Plug – check hole for gauging valve clearance: Torque to 20 Nm
Plug – gauge hole / crankshaft seal: Torque to 38 Nm

Belt tensioner (mechanical): Torque to 20 Nm

Flywheel
Stage 1: Torque to 45 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 65°

Vibration damper – until 2002 – (flanged screws x4)
Stage 1: Torque to 25 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 30°

Vibration damper – from 2002 on – (flanged screws x4)
Stage 1: Torque to 25 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 60°
Center nut: Torque to 180 Nm

Temperature sensor coolant: Torque to 22 Nm

Timing cover – front/rear: Torque to 12 Nm
Timing cover – upper: Torque to 8 Nm

Turbocharger to manifold without gasket: Torque to 25 Nm
Turbocharger to manifold with gasket: Torque to 37 Nm
Spark plugs: Torque to 30 Nm

Connecting rod cap – connecting rod with treated toothed surface between the connecting rod and cap, screw with waist
Stage 1: Torque to 20 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 90°

Connecting rod cap – connecting rod with fracture surface between the connecting rod and cap, fully threaded screw
Stage 1: Torque to 30 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 90°

Transmission screw – lower torque rod
Stage 1: Torque to 35 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 40°

Variable valve timing center screw: Torque to 120 Nm
Variable valve timing center plug: Torque to 35 Nm

JimG63
Posts: 17
Joined: 18 August 2010
Year and Model: 740/1991, XC70/2006
Location: New Britain, CT

Post by JimG63 »

Parts delays and the weather have gotten in the way of me attempting this project, but I think it was in vain (will discuss at the end of the post)

Since is seemed the more complicated of the two sides, I did the passenger side axle first. I removed the strut and disconnected the tie rod and after unbolting the bearing support, the axle pretty much just fell out. Had to monkey with things a bit to get it back together, but not too bad. Started at around 9:30 am and finished at around 11. I THOUGHT I was thru with undercarriage access, so after a quick oil change while I had the splash pan off, I put it back on and took a test ride. I STILL had my front end noise.

Get back to the house, and my fiance had shown up.... I start prepping the car to do the driver's side, which I thought would be more simple because there was no carrier bearing, then got called in for a well needed healthy lunch and a break.

So I get back out there (no garage and 4 inches of snow last night, so everything was just wet and miserable, but the sun was out). I found that instead of trying to undo ball joints and such, that removing the strut and tie rod, that I obtained proper access. Axle is disconnected from the hub but won't come out of the transmission. Some GENTLE prying (after having to remove the splash pan again), popped the axle loose. I remove it and there is a spring clip around 1/4 inch from the end of the shaft that locked it in place.

Here is one of my issues: HOW DO I GET THE NEW AXLE INSERTED FAR ENOUGH SO THAT THE SPRING CLIP ENGAGES WHERE IT IS SUPPOSED TO ENGAGE? I have it in the spline, just can't get that last 1/4 inch (yeah I hear it from my fiance too). I put it together hoping that getting the car off the jack stands would pop it into place....nope.

In any event, I went for a test drive and I still have the front end noise..... It gets loud at highway speed but if I am say on an exit ramp or a long right hand turn and have to slightly turn right, the noise goes away. I know I have to do a transmission flush, but there is no slipping in any of the gears, so I'm thinking it's not a tranny issue. To ME, when driving, the noise seems to be on the driver's side. Is it/could it be, a bad hub?

Car has around 153,000 miles on it, I bought it last spring with 142k miles and have NO maintenance history. The old axle's had Volvo stickers on them so I'm thinking they are originals, so it turned into a preventive maintenance project apparently.

Opinions?

Jim

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Sounds like you have a wheel bearing going out on you. If the noise tends to go away when you turn one way or the other it is usually a good indication. Unfortunately they should have been checked while the axles were out for rough turning, noises or movement.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

If it is a growl it is a wheel bearing. They change on loading (turns) as Neil notes above.

I drove my growler for over a year so it can wait for warmer weather. The front wheel bearings on these cars are very heavy, over engineered parts so don't worry about them failing. Wait till you see how much they cost (100 bucks)

When I did my bearing I gorilla-ed my drive shaft and had to buy a used one from Erie VoVo. Don't be that guy.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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