2001 v70 t5 cam pulley position

belskee · Post by **belskee** » 12 Mar 2015, 15:08

I've been attempting to get a t5 I bought a few months back in good running order, I had to deal with the mot to start off with and first time round emissions were all over the show, replaced the after cat o2 sensor and managed to pass the mot (just).

Soon after the mot the emission service message which in the few days of the new o2 popped back on with the engine managment light, from the day i got the car this message and light have been on, the car would drive ok until you put your foot down then go into limp mode and on occasion the engine system service urgent will pop up as well.

Funds have been an issue so I haven't got around to getting it plugged in but I wanted to check what I could in the mean time as the car was now starting to lose power so I checked the timing belt and cam/pulley postions.

The intake cam at top dead center lines up ok at the pulley mark and too with the cam position at the end cap, the exhaust however is a tooth behind/retarded at the pulley with the cvvt but was about 45% advanced at the cam position on the position sensor side.

Whats gives these positions? If I lock the cams at the end cap the exhaust pulley marks are going to be even further behind, what worries me is the guy I bought it off said the belt was changed (no proof) 30k miles ago, the belt was worn looking and the print was barely readable so I will be replacing the whole lot as soon as possible, for now I've put a new belt on and gently tapped the cam back into position on the sensor side, I got 2 new end caps in prep for further work but could do with some incline as to whats going on and what the correct coarse of action is going to be needed to put this right, thanks jim

draser · Post by **draser** » 13 Mar 2015, 08:29

Sounds like exhaust seal was replaced at some point. Since engine runs the assumption is valves are okay. Strategy would be to confirm intake is timed correctly then pull exhaust in line. Before anything, can you post pics of cam sprokets with intake lined up to cover, confirm crank marks location and pics of back slots? Very important to confirm crank and intake lined up mark locations and see coresponding exhaust location.

belskee · Post by **belskee** » 14 Mar 2015, 05:49

: Cranshaft marks

belskee · Post by **belskee** » 14 Mar 2015, 05:52

: Intake

belskee · Post by **belskee** » 14 Mar 2015, 05:58

: Exhaust

belskee · Post by **belskee** » 14 Mar 2015, 06:08

: Intake pulley

belskee · Post by **belskee** » 14 Mar 2015, 06:10

: Exhaust pulley

belskee · Post by **belskee** » 14 Mar 2015, 06:33

Also am I correct in thinking that the cvvt outer bolts should be in the middle of the bracket holes? I should also mention that when I got to the timing belt it was starting to slip off the tensioner almost a cm of belt was over the edge of it so I'm counting myself very lucky to have checked when I did.

I could only replace the belt last week but am getting the tensioner today so will take a look at the timing marks again, I did gently tap the exhaust cam back when I changed the belt but admitedly could have done it better as still not perfect, was planning of getting back in there again this time locking top dead center before I align the cams and locking in place so I can attempt to remove the exhaust pulley, waiting on tools really but am considering making cam lock tool and buying the crank lock bolt to ensure crank position.

draser · Post by **draser** » 14 Mar 2015, 08:54

Perfect, you are indeed pretty close. Good move to get the crank tool and cam lock as well. It seems that you need to lock the crank, take belt off - with intake lined up just as you have it, move exhaust slot horizontal and lock both with tool, then proceed with vvt adjustment since you're correct that you should be closer to center with 8 mm bolts. Can you see any marks on the back of exhaust sproket and shaft, hopefully when po removed sproket they marked it?

draser · Post by **draser** » 14 Mar 2015, 09:05

Forgot to mention that if you remove all plugs when adjusting you won't have compression kicks, also you may not need the crank tool if you're crank marks are well defined and you drop a wood dowel in cyl 1 to confirm your TDC. At TDC your good mark - the intake will be a touch past cover mark, since ignition is several degrees before TDC. You could also use a screw of same diameter as crank locking tool to feel indentation in crank.