98 V70 GLT Head removal question

Post by **stephansvolvo** » 14 Mar 2015, 16:52

I'm so frustrated with myself right now! I have been tearing down the engine to get too the bottom of why I have 0 compression in number 4. All bets burnt valve. I am down to the nitty gritty and locked the cams, pulled the cover and after sopping up the oil and removing the lifters, I noticed two cracks at the rear of both front and rear journals. DANG IT! I know I must have done the dirty on this. My question is I obviously need to purchase a head.. PNP is 60 with 15 core. Any guidance here as to an already r/r'd head cost to the PNP head would be helpful. Any suggestions on companies that do it cheaper. I have all the valves springs ect...but I can send those back.

Thanks

Frustrated in Aurora!

Stephan

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Mar 2015, 18:13

The pick n pull route is going to be the cheapest. The guys at Clearwater or any of the other rebuilders would ding you the core charge (and you would be out the freight) if you send them back a broken head.

The machine shop work is all the same to get the pick n pull head reworked and tested as it is for your existing head. If you get lucky you will get a head that won't need any valves.

...Lee

Post by **rspi** » 14 Mar 2015, 20:16

Who's instructions are you using? I clearly warn against that.

Post by **rspi** » 14 Mar 2015, 20:17

They charge less than $50 for heads at our pull a part.

Post by **stephansvolvo** » 14 Mar 2015, 21:34

rspi wrote:Who's instructions are you using? I clearly warn against that.

Yes I know, I know! I have watched this video and many others at almost each step two or three times. I felt like I was doing a good job protecting them and then it happened! I sent you the pics.

The PNP here is charging 60 w core.

Feel free to use those pics as a what not to do!

Post by **erikv11** » 15 Mar 2015, 20:06

Do you have pics of the damage?

60 is not bad for peace of mind but you don't automatically need to replace the head, it depends where the cracks are. It happens a lot, despite the warnings, don't feel bad ...

Post by **stephansvolvo** » 18 Mar 2015, 20:58

alright. I got the head off. Pretty cool stuff! Thanks Robert for the step by step instruction. The #4 valve looks nasty. Also as i looked at the pistons I noticed that all of them have indentations on them. These do not look new. I'd like to get your thoughts on the posted pictures. What's my next step? Thanks as always.

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Post by **rspi** » 18 Mar 2015, 21:25

Yep, burnt exhaust valve. I should make "white block" key chains out of them. How long have you had that car? How many miles have you put on it?

The pistons are fine. They are made with those groves in them.

Post by **rspi** » 18 Mar 2015, 21:29

A little trick I use when installing the head... Before lowering the head on the block, install the exhaust manifold studs, hang the gaskets, then tie dental thread on the exhaust manifold studs to keep the gaskets on. One of the best ideas I ever had.

Post by **stephansvolvo** » 18 Mar 2015, 21:43

rspi wrote:Yep, burnt exhaust valve. I should make "white block" key chains out of them. How long have you had that car? How many miles have you put on it?

The pistons are fine. They are made with those groves in them.

If your making key chains i'll send you mine too! I have had the car 1.5 years. I have put around 20k. I was hoping those grooves didn't happen when all this went down. This is good news. I will be taking the head to the shop Friday or Monday to have them r/r it.