2001 S60 2.4t Brake booster removal

[the65dartguy1]

In the midst of removing my leaky brake booster... I have the unit loose but it will not physically slide out of the vehicle. I have removed the strut cross support and it mounts, the air intake tube is loose and the master cylinder is out of the way. Thing is it is either hitting the back of the block or the ABS stuff, or the input rod on the back of the booster gets hung up and prevents me from lifting out.
Anybody know the trick to this? Is this something that requires lowering the engine via the subframe to accomplish? Any and all help appreciated!

[vtl]

As far as I know, it needs rear part of subframe to be lowered.

[the65dartguy1]

I was afraid that would be the case. Any idea where there is a good write-up on how to accomplish that properly?

[GBS]

I did this on our 2002 V70 and I'm thinking its similar on yours though I'm not sure. I seem to remember the hardest part of that job was inside the car getting way up under the dash to unscrew and install, long extensions helped.

As far as removal I had links to this page:
http://www.volvo-forums.com/t11884-brak ... cement.htm

It's been a few years but I definately did not lower the engine, its tight but doable. I remember reading not to move brake cylinder "too much" or you'd have to bleed the brakes. Also pay attention to last line with the brake light switch, my test-drive around the neighborhood let to my neighbor stopping by asking if I worked on the brakes on my car as the lights was on throughout my drive )

[chrism]

I just did this about 6 weeks ago on my 2003 V70. I think it should be the same.

I recall I had to do the following at a minimum:
Disconnect the battery;
Remove the air filter box;
Remove the hot lead from the fuse box;
Unbolt the fuse box and swing it over toward the engine;
Remove the master cylinder;
Remove the ABS unit;
Remove the under-dash panel;
Disconnect the push rod from the brake pedal arm;
Remove the four booster mounting bolts.

You'll have to bleed the brakes when done.

When I was all done the brakes lights were on with pedal up. I had to tweak the brake light switch a tad to get the proper make/break switch action. Apparently the rod length on the replacement booster was just a hair shorter. They appeared the same when comparing the old against the new on the bench.

The under-dash part of the job is a pain.

[HawleyTronics]

I just recently replaced the brake booster on my 2003 S60 T5 and can offer this advice....

First thing is to remember to move the driver's seat all the way back to give yourself some room under the dash!! I didn't do this and it wasn't until after I removed the battery cable to do this job and tried getting to the bolts under the dash that I realized I didn't leave myself a lot of room and it made it very difficult to squeeze my medium-build frame between the driver seat and dash to remove those 4 nuts off of the ridiculously long, fine-threaded studs that are on the brake booster. Inside the engine compartment was fairly straight forward and I did not have to remove any subframe. It was tight getting the brake booster to slide out of the engine compartment, but after carefully bending the master cylinder and ABS unit out of the way a little, being careful not to kink any brake lines, I was able to squeeze the brake booster out. Adjusting the brake switch was as simple as sliding it forward (makes clicking sounds when sliding it) until it just touched the pedal and the brake lights went off.

[the65dartguy1]

Thanks for the info folks, I will loosen up the ABS crap and see if that buys me the space required. Sounds like that should do the trick.

[the65dartguy1]

Success!!! The car is back in action and better than ever. Thanks again for the help.

[chrism]

That was quick. Way to go.