2000 S70 Brakes and General Questions

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 11 Jul 2015, 22:16

Obviously my parking brake doesn't work but what kind of fix am I looking at if the parking brake does not engage properly? On a hill today, I put it in neutral and put on the parking brake. Lo and behold, the car started moving backwards while making a loud screeching sound. I knew the parking brakes were not working properly for months because sometimes when I pull it, it would be tighter than others while other times it would be loose as hell and feel like it didn't engage at all. My mechanic friend in the past also told me that it's possible the parking brake is seized, having the consequences as mentioned in this thread. But right now, well I gotta find out how much all these repairs will cost and what else might go bad.

For the disc brakes, I understand the rotors are supposed to be smooth. When I got the oil change done recently, I asked the shop to take a quick look at the brakes and suspension for me. They showed and told me that the front pads and rotors will need to be changed together next time because the rotors have grooves in them. I felt it and it was grooved and bumpy compared to the rear, which was smooth. However surprisingly, the front brake pads have 50% life left while the rears are expected to last a couple more months. In the past according to our service history, we usually have to change the front pads first, where every 2nd time the front pads are changed, we change the rear. Combined with the fact that the rear calipers couldn't be inspected properly unless the mechanic took it off, I'm guessing the worst case is that the rotors are seized as well? If they are, that would mean I have to replace all the brake pads, rotors, and probably find myself some rebuilt OEM calipers correct? Or can I use the Cardone calipers that FCP sells?

I'm currently using the ATE brake pad and rotor kit that FCP used to sell a couple years ago but they don't seem to carry it anymore. What should I replace them with if I need to get new brakes? I want good performance but I have only 15" rims. Would the 11" brakes clear them?

Lastly, what else am I looking at for such an old car and high mileage? Currently I have the following on the list, including the above mentioned:

[*]Parking brakes and brakes [/*]
[*]Summer and winter tires[/*]
[*]Transmission fluid (maybe solenoids?), and hopefully the rough shifting doesn't get worse (AW55-50 5 speed automatic[/*]
[*]Radiator. Using some random aftermarket one because the old one cracked so needed an urgent repair[*]
[*]Spark plugs[/*]
[*]AC compressor clutch gap and evaporator core leak (can be sealed with German sealant at a local shop. They've done it for many vehicles.)[/*]

I apologize in advance for always coming, asking for help and making little to no contributions to the site.. But you guys have helped me lots and even though we are strangers, I would like to thank you. With so much that is happening to the car,

Post by **abscate** » 12 Jul 2015, 03:51

Can you get the wheels off and show some pictures of your rotors and calipers?

If you still have pad thickness and scored rotors it sounds like the rotors got hurt last time. They should be mirror smooth and shiny where the pads touch. Check both sides of the rotor...it's possible for a caliper to hang up in one side.

Do you have an automatic? Just use the Park on the transmission and stop using the parking brake if it's acting funky. You will eventually cause big problems if the handle travel is " changing"

To fix the parking brake, you remove the rear rotors, which have a brake drum built inside. The parking brake has drum brake shoes inside this. There are a couple of good threads with pictures.

I believe your 2000 has adjustable parking brakes at the wheel like my 1999 but P2 cars changed to adjust at handbrake. When you have that rear wheel off, if there is an extra hole in the brake rotor outside the circumference of the lug nut circle, that's the brake adjuster hole.

Aftermarket radiators fine..I've got a Nissens in mine

Sealing evap core...ugh. I'm not a fan of this stuff.its a cheap part and 10 hours of labor to replace but if you want AC, suck it up and do it right.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Jul 2015, 03:54

Pictures in this thread

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... ke#p301094

Post by **chrafael** » 12 Jul 2015, 09:32

I used Cardone remans all around on my V70 with Akebono pads and they worked fine. Just make sure you can get brake hoses because sometimes they can be pretty difficult to remove.

Post by **chrafael** » 12 Jul 2015, 09:38

My mistake, not hoses but hard lines. Same problem, hard to remove without rounding the flare nuts.

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 14 Jul 2015, 12:06

abscate wrote:Can you get the wheels off and show some pictures of your rotors and calipers?

If you still have pad thickness and scored rotors it sounds like the rotors got hurt last time. They should be mirror smooth and shiny where the pads touch. Check both sides of the rotor...it's possible for a caliper to hang up in one side.

Do you have an automatic? Just use the Park on the transmission and stop using the parking brake if it's acting funky. You will eventually cause big problems if the handle travel is " changing"

Anything specific you want to see from the rotors and calipers? Or what do you mean by hung? Because upon inspection, mechanics says it is fine right now. It is when I replace them, I'll get hurt the most. There's no way around it aside from getting new pads and rotors when they need to be replaced at the future. Only thing is calipers probably have to be replaced too.

Yep it's an automatic but I park on a hill when I visit my girlfriend and slightly sloped driveway overnight. I know without using the handbrake, the parking pins in the transmission can be damaged so not using the parking brake right now this is just a temporary measure.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Jul 2015, 12:18

You won't hurt the tranmission just using the pawl to park. 95% of America doesn't use the parking brake anyway. Im not sure about Canada, though.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 14 Jul 2015, 15:39

geokilla wrote:Anything specific you want to see from the rotors and calipers?

We need to see the rotor surface.

geokilla wrote:Or what do you mean by hung?

The caliper can bind up or get stuck and constantly be grabbing the rotor.

geokilla wrote:I know without using the handbrake, the parking pins in the transmission can be damaged...

No they can't. Like abscate mentioned, state side almost no one uses the parking brake and from my interactions with people at work most don't even know what a parking brake is.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Jul 2015, 04:33

If a caliper is k hung or tight, you usually feel the drag on the car, and you will smell hot brakes. If you dash a cup of water on the rotor it will sizzle and steam.

If you touch the rotor with your fingers they take three weeks to heal.

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 15 Jul 2015, 22:17

abscate wrote:If a caliper is k hung or tight, you usually feel the drag on the car, and you will smell hot brakes. If you dash a cup of water on the rotor it will sizzle and steam.

If you touch the rotor with your fingers they take three weeks to heal.

At least I know my calipers are "fine" then since they don't smell or drag the car. At least not that I can smell or feel during and after a long, 2 hour highway drive