1998 V70 T5 How to tell which subframe to buy?

Post by **WyoVolvo** » 19 Jul 2015, 14:40

My son drives our old Volvo wagon and wrecked it the other day. I took it to the mechanic and they replaced tie rod inner/outer and axle on one side. He had solidly sideswiped a parked car avoiding someone else. The front passenger wheel was pushed back a bit and axle blown apart and I just had it hauled without digging into it myself. Turns out, after repairs, they noticed that the subframe is bent. Took it to the collision shop and the price went through the roof. He said I'd need a new subframe, that straightening it out isn't going to be good enough. He also said that there are 3 versions for that year and it would be hard to find the right one without fitting it? Is that right? Did I misunderstand? Shop told me at least $2600 to repair.

I brought it home to think about what to do next. $205k miles, a bit worn by teenagers, but safe and reliable. We've put a bit into her to maintain her reliability, paying less attention to cosmetics.

So, is it true that there are 3 versions of the subframe for 1998? If so, is there a sure fire way to select the correct one online? AND, if so, is this worth it or is it time to say goodbye to the Volvo? Replacement cost is what I consider and, if it's more than $2500, it's a no go. But I saw a subframe online for $200...

Blockpartie · Post by **Blockpartie** » 19 Jul 2015, 14:50

Repairing the subframe is not a good idea if it has been bent, you will have difficulty getting everything to align properly. So I agree with the mechanics option that you should replace it.
There are indeed different subframe versions for 1998. Here is how to determine which one you need:

Easy way:
Find out what parts number your current subframe has by locating it on the subframe itself. Buy subframe with the same parts number.

Slightly more difficult way:
Find out what style control arms are installed on your Volvo. Going by the model in your infobox it should have the "2 bolt"-style control arm. You will need a subframe suitable for this, not one for "4 bolt control arms".
This means you will be looking for a subframe from either a 1997-2000 V70 or 1997-2000 S70 model, 2 bolt control arms, FWD. Once you have found one, get the number and check if it matches your car using one of the many only parts retailers.

Post by **precopster** » 19 Jul 2015, 15:46

The subframe part number can easily be identified by using Vida. Any dealer should be able to provide a part mumber based on your chassis identifier number also called a VIN.

greenman86 · Post by **greenman86** » 19 Jul 2015, 16:47

A sub-frame is going to run you about $100 at any pick n pull type junkyard and its not all that difficult to remove. I've also seen sub-frames for sale on ebay so you might want to check there as well. Just identify the part # and it should be relatively simple to locate the correct sub-frame.

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Jul 2015, 17:16

I can only see the three choices being AWD, FWD with through bolt bushings needing the brackets on subframe, and FWD with two bolt bushings needing two holes per bushing through subframe.
Take several pictures of the subframe on yours and then go scrapyard scrounging.

Post by **WyoVolvo** » 19 Jul 2015, 21:33

Wow! Thanks. I think the shop didn't want to do the job because they judged it to be a waste since the car has 205K miles on it.
So, I think I can find the right subframe now, with your advice. I'll have to figure out whether or not I'd be up to the job. Anybody here changed out their subframe? How big of a job? I think I could do it but I'd hate to have it in pieces in my shop and end up scratching my head over it.
Any thoughts, suggestions?

superfeed · Post by **superfeed** » 19 Jul 2015, 21:49

I did it last year on my 98 v70 xc. Not too difficult. Lifted it up from above with a support bar with chains available from Harbor Freight. You will need an assortment of wrenches, some of the fasteners are hard to get to. I remember struggling a bit with a couple of the control arm bolts that attach to the subframe. I have the four bolt per side type. I seem to remember having to lift one side of the engine pretty high to get one of the control arm bolts out. There were a couple of couple of splined bolts on the steering rack (I think) and one of them gave me some difficulty getting it out. You want to make sure the bushings are good for the subframe to body or buy new ones first. Best to order new bolts for those bushings too, as the preload is very high - and it is likely the took some of th impact. Mine did. You will want to be adept with tools and be patient to do this yourself to not strip bolts.

Post by **WyoVolvo** » 19 Jul 2015, 21:59

That's encouraging!
When you say "lifted it up from above...", do you mean that you lifted the engine away from the subframe?

Post by **cn90** » 19 Jul 2015, 22:24

At 205K miles and bent subframe, I'd get another T5.
These days, you can get a T5 with 100K+ miles for about $2500.

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Jul 2015, 22:28

You lift the engine/trans just a bit. It has to be lifted since it sits on motor mounts that in turn sit on the subframe. remove the bolts for steering rack and wire it to something so it hangs there so subframe can be lowered down from car.