01 V70XC- what AW55 work can be done in a driveway?

akgyger · Post by **akgyger** » 11 Aug 2015, 16:35

Greetings,

I'm going to pick up a near-mint '01 v70xc in a few weeks that is still in driveable condition. Seems to have had the C1 Disengagement on Brake signal removed from the TCM but is still operating like a typical 120,000 mile volvo Aw55. Not sure yet on which specific issue is plaguing the trans. When it gets to my shop back home, I have a complete, proper-for-this-car reman AW55 unit ready for installation. I'll be doing a teardown and If the casing isn't worn on the current trans, I'll be picking up a master rebuild kit and refreshing it next month.

My question to you, the community, is:

Say I get to the seller's driveway with a decently stocked toolchest in the back of my current v70, what transmission components are accessible to us without sincere dismemberment? Airbox and piping removal are not a concern. I'm going to check the condition of the fluid, and do a drain/fill to get some clean ATF in there, and I'd like to check out the cleanliness of the input and output speed sensors. I have VIDA and will be running a full diag. I'm used to my P1 v70, and haven't poked around the engine bay of a P2 extensively.

From what I've researched, I won't get access to the Valve Body cover until I drop the subframe, so checking the condition of the Linears is going to be out of the question, it seems.

Anything else that can be done or that should be looked at before setting off?

I have to cover 500 miles as best as I can, as having the car delivered is not feasible, financially. I do have AAA Platnium, and they will tow my car anywhere in the US without additional fees, so If it does decide to tank, I have my bases covered. It's crazy, and it's going to be akin to a top-gear UK challenge, but I really don't have anything to lose.

Thanks all for any and all advice.

Post by **vtl** » 11 Aug 2015, 19:17

AW55 problems typically shine out when ATF reaches operational temperature. So get it to properly warmed and hit some heavy traffic.

Post by **oragex** » 11 Aug 2015, 20:27

Many 100K miles Volvo look in mint condition but paint quality doesn't mean the same goes for the mechanics. As mentioned above, ask the seller how the transmission behaves once well warmed up and if the ETM has already been replaced. The gearbox had issues with the servo cover and the solenoids.

akgyger · Post by **akgyger** » 12 Aug 2015, 08:19

thanks guys,

Completely agree with you on visual vs mechanical quality. you should NEVER judge a book by it's cover, as Volvo parts are sometimes capable of holding on without complaint, even in severe disrepair.

Anyone with a P2 care to share some photos of what the trans looks like once you have the airbox/tray/etc removed? I'm hoping I can get to those input/output sensors.

As you mentioned, I think the B4 servo has been addressed already; This car's chassis, #035966, is awfully close to the problematic range (#036000-067100). According to the dealer records in Western PA, the trans was serviced 3 or 4 times (cup holders and center console were replaced 5 or 6 times!) along with regular maintenance intervals by affluent original owners all the way up to 115k in 2013, and then was sold to an older couple who have had it for just over a year. They parked it and bought a new car when the trans acted up one day, and of course, the dealer quoted them ~5k or so for full replacement.

It's cheap, and easy to inspect/replace, AND it can be done in the driveway, so I'll add a new B4 to the list of parts/items we take just to be safe.

dux02v70 · Post by **dux02v70** » 12 Aug 2015, 09:30

I agree - get it warmed up and see what happens. My 2002 likes to wait to engage drive and occasionally flares when downshifting in a slow turn but once underway the transmission shifts into 5th, the converter locks and all is good. My understanding of the typical issue with the transmissions is that they have problems with shifting but usually stay engaged once they get to the correct gear so a 500 mile trip shouldn't be a problem. By the way, I have 166k on mine and drive it about 600 miles per week to and from work. I will likely freshen up the valve body at some point but I have no concerns about driving this thing anywhere in the meantime.

Post by **oragex** » 12 Aug 2015, 10:09

That's an interesting story. Center console replaced 5 times means the first owner was picky with the car so that may be a good thing. If the last owners are indeed an old couple then it might be an interesting car. As above, we cannot figure out how bad the transmission behaves, but I would guess just driving it back home as it is won't do harm. Replacing the whole fluid and drive right away a long highway distance is one of those scenarios that a few people mentioned it ruined the transmission - in the debate to flush or not to flush. In any case, the transmission servicing story means most surely the fluid was already replaced.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 13 Aug 2015, 10:33

You don't need to drop the subframe to get to the valvebody - you only have to drop the front portion and loosen the rear. You do need to support the engine. This can be done on a driveway. Do a little research and you will find a write up and many posts on the subject.

My suggestion is remove the fan assembly and use a Nissan gasket for the valve body. It is cleaner and quicker. No need to unhook the coolant hoses. You can work around these especially if you use a gasket rather than RTV. Were it my car I would pull the valve body only unless when I drove it I felt grinding or see any metal when I drained the fluid. I would not do a drain and fill, rather I would change out the solenoids at least first. No reason to waste tranny fluid. Better option is to rebuild the valve body with the Transgo kit. After this I would put new fluid in and do an adaptation.

If after this you have problems then I would do a complete tranny swap. My approach would cost only about $120 more (TransGo kit price), plus time, and most likely would yield a properly working transmission. You can get the car back running the same day. I would check the B4 regardless - fast and easy. FYI I did my old XC70 2001 at 185k or so with the TransGo rebuild - and it drives just fine now 10k later.

akgyger · Post by **akgyger** » 25 Aug 2015, 09:28

Thanks to all for your advice and replies. smart idea on that gasket instead of RTV. Since your last post, I understand better how to get good access to the VB cover but we started running out of daylight to work on the car.

Wound up having to trailer home via dolly (removed driveshaft).

When we fired the car up for the first time, the engine sounded beautiful, PVC system had been serviced by a dealer w/ genuine parts in the last 25k, so no smoking dipstick, knock, or leaks from seals...

however, an interesting buzzing/whining sound was coming from the trans that was dependent on engine speed.
during this time it was cold, all gears would engage (after a short delay, always smooth). As it warmed up this noise went away and never returned, but of course it was 100% neutral in P,R,M1/2/3.

I'm starting on the reman trans swap later this week, and we're interested to see what shape the internals are in. It would be awesome to see a TransGo shift kit/gasketset/proper rostras solve the issue via valve body, of course... but I'm not convinced that it's the only thing that needs looked at- my spidey senses are currently tingling over the idea of the pump's pickup screens becoming clogged after fluid moves around during warmup, and possibly the idea that somehow it might have the wrong spec fluid in the case.

Dead battery on this car as well, so Vida had a lot to say as far as CSC's however everything checks out so far (except this darn SRS code that won't clear!)

until next time.....

jenkinskg · Post by **jenkinskg** » 01 Apr 2017, 16:12

my 2 cents
After research and doing my own valve body, if the valve body was just cleaned, it may have issues again.
The materials on OEM was not good.
Mine was rebuild using better than OEM solenoids.
I have put 20K on mine since and still does 110mph very smooth and quick.

Post by **precopster** » 02 Apr 2017, 05:43

THE most important maintenance item on these is transmission fluid replacement followed by engine oil. All the rest apart from duco are driveway serviceable items if you have a decent tool set and patience.

If the trans fluid keeps coming out black after 2 drops in succession you can kiss the friction surfaces good bye. I know because I tried to rebuild a 2001 XC70 transmission with very poor fluid color and only less than 100K miles and struck out. Ended up buying a used transmission with no warranty and it worked fine. Sure was a lucky one!!