2000 v70 parking brake cable replacement

Post by **famfeld** » 19 Sep 2015, 12:34

I have concluded that the parking brake cables are siezed or binding up and am going to attempt to replace them (already ordered 2 cables). Any advice?

Thanks,

-Feld

Post by **cuhfs** » 19 Sep 2015, 13:11

Change the handbrake cable on a volvo v70 awd
Its a pretty "intuitive" job, meaning that as you take it apart it will make sense... and as you put it back together. My "Volvo Parking Brake Shoe Adjuster Expander link" where it meets the cable was in bad shape. you may want to consider swapping out that part too, unless you find that overkill.

Post by **RussB** » 19 Sep 2015, 16:28

I gotta replace my 2 p-brake cables too. Subscribed.

Post by **scot850** » 19 Sep 2015, 21:14

Just be very happy you don't have to do the cables on an AWD P80/850. The FWD cars are fairly straight forward. I believe Robert (rspi) had a video on it and also there is the write up as previously mentioned. Hardest part is removing the center console and that is not too hard. Just be careful not to break it. When re-fitting don't over-tighten the 2 x 8mm bolts under the arm rest. The plastic becomes fragile over time.

I use a thin piece of wire to feed the wire up the side of the seats to the adjuster to allow you to pull the cable end up from under the carpet.

I don't remove the carpet in the rear passenger area (cable runs under it) but remove the plastic sill plates, and raise the carpet to get access.

Take note on how to adjust the cables. My preference is to adjust the cable at the wheel first until the wheel is locked, and then back off 2-3 clicks (4 max.) until the wheel turns. Then adjust the other end between the seat behind the parking brake lever until the wheels lock at around 4 clicks. You may have to adjust again after a few weeks as the cable takes an initial stretch.

Neil.

Post by **j-dawg** » 19 Sep 2015, 22:33

Be careful pulling apart the interior, and take the opportunity to clean the carpets. If you plan to remove the front seats, make sure to disconnect the battery first, or you will get an SRS light that can only be reset by a dealer. By tilting the seats and creatively applying a utility knife, you can get away with leaving the seats plugged in. Be very careful not to cut any wires doing this.

Don't bother trying this without snap ring pliers. It's possible, but it sucks. Way less frustrating if you have them.

Check to make sure the o-ring on the replacement is the right size. I bought PEX cables from FCP, and while they seem to be of fine quality, the o-ring was fatter than the one on the cable housing I took off. Swapped the seals and everything was peachy. I also applied RTV sealant around the edge of the fitting, just 'cause it made me feel better. Doubt it helps much.

Use assloads of grease on the cable, in the housing, and on the mechanism.

Leave the console loose until you've got cable tension set. It's a lot easier to adjust with the console loose or off.

Post by **famfeld** » 20 Sep 2015, 05:56

Thanks so much. May attempt this next weekend. How can I access the star adjuster? It must be from the back? A smallish flathead screwdriver? I felt around and could not feel an opening to access it?

Post by **j-dawg** » 20 Sep 2015, 10:42

Open the armrest storage compartment, and there's a little panel on the bottom front corner. You can pop that off with a flathead screwdriver, and you'll get access to the adjuster from there. You need a Torx driver, can't recall the size offhand. Access is a little tight but I can get to it with my Torx sockets and a 3/8" drive ratchet.

With the console off, the screw is out in the open air, super easy to access.

dr1vereye · Post by **dr1vereye** » 20 Sep 2015, 11:38

on my 89 you access the adjuster through the lug nut holes in front.
When the console is back on and you need to adjust the torx, my ratchet did not fit in the space so I just used the torx socket and an 8mm wrench on the actual torx head.

DrJammer · Post by **DrJammer** » 23 Sep 2015, 10:51

I did this last summer and I think it took me more time to plan it out than do it, although it was a most of the day affair. Jdawg had a lot of good info, and look around on the forum for tutorials.

I went with the PEX cables from FCP and they were fine. My volvo mechanic told me to use VOLVO shoes only, or you will experience problems with your rotor in the future, or something like that.

I think the adjuster torx is like a T40 or something bigger?

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=54614

Post by **famfeld** » 27 Sep 2015, 15:26

I replaced the cable on the right side so far and left the old shoes in place. I adjusted the pads out a little so they would contact the rotor sooner, but I could still slide the rotor on easily. Put everything back together and adjusted the parking brake with the torx. If I pull it up tight, the shoes are making contact with the rotor, but when I jack the wheel it still spins pretty easily. I plan to do the other side and see what happens. I think I may have to get back in there and change the pads or maybe the rotors too.

Thanks for the advice so far. It wasn't that bad. I removed the rear benches and door seal and peeled the carpet up for access.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Feld