No Start 1989 240 LH jetronic 2.4 - B230F.

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 27 Dec 2015, 00:38

Hello guys, I just got this car after crashing my previous dd. need this to be my DD too, so I am in a pinch here. 1989 240 sedan, B230F n/a, Bosch LH 2.4 engine managment. 303500 km in the ODO but it is stopped so not 100% sure how many more km on it...

Bought this car very cheap off CraigsList, suspicious I know, but dang there wasn't much to it apparently, there was an almost inmaculate interior worth what I paid for the whole car. I brought my charged battery started at the touch of a key from been there not used for a few months, so I grew optimistic. No smoke coming from any where, no leaks, oil was clean and full (previous owner says she changed it before her accident, she also claim new brake pads and the car to be running just fine since always... I am not sure how true she was though). I did ran the car home with the small front collission (hood and front lights mount bent, radiator untouched, even the lights were good). Fix the damage with my 4 square small headlights 1983 front end. Exhaust was broken and missing behind the first muffler. I installed mine from behind the cat to the tail pipe. Sounds fine now. I also refurbished both front seats with my cushions. I say it is looking good and feeling great except for this bug.

After been starting perfectly every single time for a couple days after the purchase in the sudden it decided to start hessitating and after much struggling it would start, i blamed the tank been almost empty, so refuel and it started after a couple coughs... a few days more and some times it would not start at all, drainging my battery in the try. It sputters and coughs and almost goes but then nothing; But once it goes, it idles beautifully and goes really well. Happy as a wissle. Everything works fine... Nothing to complain about then.

Today finally the battery gave in and went flat. My battery is one year old and still very healthy, started my carbureted car every time, no a single hesitation. I also tried with a jump starter and it started once tonight, then once again with no jump starter, then dead and not even with the jumper.

Besides changing half the exhaust, I changed the ignition coil tonight just in case the old was bad, I have a decent not so old Bosch Blue Coil that has been doing its job no problem in my previous vehicle. For once it started just with the first turn of the key even with a drained battery (lucky shot I guess). But then I tried again like after installing my drivers seat just to go for a ride and try the refurbished seat. It wouldn't start even with the jump starter and they both went flat.

I took a look at the code generator to see what could be wrong. The codes in number 6 and number 2 positions were clear 1-1-1 both times. Which at some point makes me happy, but then I am a little bit lost here. I am thinking maybe the in tank pump? If it was some of the sensors or the mass air sensor there would be a code at some point right?

Any way I come from my previous Volvo 1983 B21A, been carbureted and brand new to this FI systems, so need to start the curve to knowledge.

Any ideas and recomendations would be appreciated. Keep in mind I do have a parts car, just not a fuel injected one. But still a lot of things I could swap and try.

Thanks.

Sergitin.

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 27 Dec 2015, 08:27

sergitin32 wrote:...not so old Bosch Blue Coil...

In JY, find another Bosch LH 2.4 coil.... Coils are designed for specific applications.

Better yet, do an ohm test on both coils...

Does it have fuel in cylinders, and does it have ignition at spark plugs?

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 27 Dec 2015, 14:46

What does JY means in this case?
I am looking for a new multimeter, I need still to find time to check some stuff. So far reading the interweb.
So far these came to be the usual suspects to my discretion:

-25amps blade fuse by the coil under the hood.

-in tank fuel pump and main fuel pump relay (by jumping fuse 4 to 6 you can check if the pumps work fine... still trying to sort this out, pasing a jumping cable from the left contact of fuse 4 to the left contact of fuse 6?)

-the fuse that powers the O2 sensor heater I read but then I also read the O2 signal is pretty much disregarded for starting since the sensor is not hot yet and the mix needs to be rich anyways...

- compression... I do believe my compression is OK since once it start the engine pulls very nicely and even in parking the idle is non hesitant at all and when reving the car body twistes nicely with the torque.

- Holes in the intake hose (I will check this today)

- Air Mass meter. But again, it idles nicely. and runs OK.

I will also try starting the classic argorithm, checking for fuel spark and compression and report back.

Thanks 93Regina for always be there for the people in need in this forum, your help is appreciated. I am just reading about coils compatibility, will both of ine for their parts number and check mack online. Then also will need to measure them both for resistance.

Ironically now I will not nag any more about my carburetor system but miss it! Or not?

Happy new year guys.

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 27 Dec 2015, 19:01

OK just went down stairs and gave a look to the coils. Just in regards to 93Regina feedback on different kind of coils for different engine applications.
I will write down the numbers stamped at the bottom of both coils trying to match the way they appear there.

Old Bosh (black) coil previously in the car

Part number: 0221122334
Also stamped in the botton: 270 long space in between(965)
S3

Bosch Blue coil from donor car:

Part number: 9220081083
Also stamped at the bottom: K12V
204 long space in between 08
(0221119027)

sorry the preview doesnt show the right spacing for the stamped number, lets say the different lines of numbers are written with central alignment.

Managed to find the 25 amps blade fuse and it looks OK. I asume this cable goes to the starter solenoide? It looked fine, except for the fact that was dangling around and not screwed to the wall in its plastic sheath.
Well the starter is runing and turning the engine so that shouldn't be the culprit.

I have been thinking and there is a sorta random pattern, some times starts with a touch and some times it takes a longer try, some times it doesn't at all... I have also read the fuel pumps relay dies due to some cold broken solders, and this would make sence for that kind of fail... if it is sorta happening but not completly splited. Cold or broken solder points create this kinda contact or not pattern, they heat and change a little, and things go from there, so I believe maybe that relay should be the next thing I focuss on. As mentioned jumping fuses 4 to 6 should have both fuel pumps running (listen to them going) then try start, if it does with this then the relay is bad, take it out and try to resolder the bad spots and make them heavier so they don't brake again or source a new relay. By the way could some one tell me where that relay is located? Thanks in advance.

I will come back to you guys later.
Have a good one.

Sergitin.

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 27 Dec 2015, 19:51

sergitin32 wrote: Old Bosh (black) coil previously in the car

Part number: 0221122334

From the Bentley Manual

LH2.4 EFI/EZ-116K IGN - coil specs ('89+ 240):
- primary (terminals 1 and 15) 0.6-1.0 ohms
- secondary (terminal 1 and centre tower) 6.5 - 9.0 K ohms

Trick Mick said 10/26/1946 to 1/8/2014,

...coils are SYSTEM SPECIFIC due to inclusion of RESISTORS and the current
levels the *ELECTRONICS* are meant to "See".....
you can run a 3 Ohm coil in a system meant for a 1 Ohm coil, but if you stuff a 0.5 Ohm
coil in a system designed for a 3 Ohm rig you're courting a meltdown (and it won't be
pretty OR cheap when it goes down!)

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 27 Dec 2015, 19:55

sergitin32 wrote:What does JY mean

Junk Yard...Salvage Yard..."Parts Recycler"

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 27 Dec 2015, 22:24

OK so i will measure the coils I have and see if they both match these measurements...
Then from both I believe I should use the one with the lowest resistance measurement within these parameters?
I can see IPD carries both of these... or at least the equivalent... but when I filter by vehicle none of my cars would be using the Bosch Blue Coil.
I sent them some questions and will wait for their answer. See what it comes to be, I do know this (bosch blue) coil was used in my 1983 with carbs with no issues.
Seams it has higher voltage output... not sure if thats good or not for the distributor, will see.

JYard, kool thanks. Hey for some reason I am not receiving any notifications by email when you post in my post, I checked my preferences in the forum but didn't notice wanything off. Any idea what this might be? Should I write the admin people to solve this? I just enter here randomly and read your answers when they are there, it would be nice to hav the email notice so I can be sure.

Trying to source some on the cheap side multimeter good for automotive. Then will measure the resistance in the coils.
Thanks a lot again 93Regina.

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 27 Dec 2015, 23:43

sergitin32 wrote:Hey for some reason I am not receiving any notifications by email when you post in my post,

Checking Forum Email Alert

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 27 Dec 2015, 23:46

sergitin32 wrote:I believe I should use the one with the lowest resistance measurement within these parameters?

Its better to know....stock replacement is best.

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 28 Dec 2015, 01:50

Thanks for the thread about the emails notifications. I already sent an email to those two addresses addressing the issue and save them in my gmail contacts to see if the problem is resolved.
I will wait for an answer from IPD in regards to the two coils then meassure the resistance and make my mind, probably put the stock back there... if it is within the right parameters.
I just ordered a multimeter should arrive tomorrow.
Will keep you posted of any developments.

Nice to see IPD carries quite a bit of the common suspects, so it wont be much of a hassle just forking the money.
Althou I will always try the soldering gun approach first see if I can save the part before I spent the coins.

Thanks

Sergitin.