Cruise - New Radio - LED Lights

[firestarterpro]

Hey Guys three things

My cruise control has been acting up after I had a friend help me with changing the rear main seal.
I've changed out the pump under the battery and it still functions the same:

It drops to 65mph after set it at 70mph. And if i set it below 60, it drops more than 10 mph. I'm thinking I'm going to need to replace the hose going to the pedal.

Which leads me to the next thing.

I bought a powered subwoofer, and a capacitor [cheap 1 farat] which I need to power. I'm thinking I can pull the new cruise control hose true with the red 6 gauge power cable after taping them to the old cruise control hose.


If you guys see any holes in my plan, or have any suggesttions, I would greatly appreciate it.

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As far as the LED lights, I may hook them up after the capacitor, so I can run them while the car is off. I have 5 meter and may add up to 10 meters. I'm thinking that will be fine, aside from some possible flickering with the bass... anywho. Thanks in advance guys.

[Ozark Lee]

There is a piece of plastic hard line that goes between the hoses along the frame rail that the cruise uses and it is not uncommon for that hose to crack. It can be tough to see. The best way to find that is to cap off one end and use a vacuum pump to see if it holds a vacuum.

...Lee

[dyn blin]

You could also pull the power wire through the firewall via the accessory port. I haven't looked at it in a while, but last time I did, I recall thinking there was more than enough room for a thick gauge wire or supplemental vacuum line. There's also an unused accessory connector with both switched and constant power you might tap, depending on the amperage you need, & is fused through the main panel.

Edit: it appears one of the terminals will handle 20A

[firestarterpro]

My sub has a 30A fuse rating, and a 300W [600peak] Power Rating.

But still, where is this... I guess it would work for the LED lights.

And Lee, I did the vacuum test with my brake bleeder and it held a vacuum from the battery end but from the pedal end! So yea... it's the rubber elbow by the battery try... it leaked substantially. I'm thinking a junkyard is the best place to perhaps find one? Autozone, Advanced Auto, Napa has proven difficult to match what I have...

[erikv11]

Just get a piece of vacuum hose, silicone would work well in that battery tray location because it bends well. I would not do junkyard for any vacuum hose, most of the rubber parts there are also 20 years old.

You best bet is to just replace all of the rubber vacuum lines, there are probably several leaks. Won't cost much and gives you a good baseline. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=65002

[dyn blin]

My sub has a 30A fuse rating, and a 300W [600peak] Power Rating.

But still, where is this... I guess it would work for the LED lights.

[firestarterpro]

I was trying to pretend I know which wire but im not even 100% sure I have the right wire bundle.

Is it the red wire from the wire bundle behind one of the un-used tabs between the sunroof control and the mirror defogger?

[firestarterpro]

Does anyone know the best way to get that hard vacuum hose? Autozone doesn't have a long enough line and I can't seem to get the right size ordering online.

[erikv11]

You could cut off the hard line near the firewall, and replace it with a piece of rubber or silicone vacuum line, that runs from that cut to the cruise vacuum pump under the battery tray. Or do something similar with a short piece of new hard plastic vacuum tubing.

You best bet is to just replace all of the vacuum lines, there are probably several leaks.

[firestarterpro]

Gotcha.... work smart, not hard.