Re: 98 S70, N/A, P0116 and P0117... car will not start, again

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 21 Feb 2016, 20:05

Oh, eighteen-year-old S70, why o why...

The "check engine" light turned on today (too abruptly for a P0455, that usually happens after 65 miles or so...). We pulled over and parked in a parking lot. The wife gets out to do shopping and I take out the trusty code reader and go to read and clear the light. P0116! I knew it couldn't have been a P0455... OK, so I reset it and jump on here and see if I can find anything out. Surely the car will start and get me the mile I need to drive to my driveway...

Well, about twenty later, I go to start the car. It won't turn over. It can't be the fuel pump, that junk was swapped with the "hella-loud" Hella! I let the car cool down a little more before cranking it again. Nothing. I found it odd because the car had been at operating temperature just a little while earlier but as I put the key in the ignition, the temp of the car wouldn't go up. I could've sworn the temp sensor goes up if the car is warm/hot.

I crack open the hood to see what I can see. There seems to be coolant coming out of the engine temp sensor.

The coolant ran into and onto the wires. (Does this cause a short of some sort?)

I detached the clips and reattached them. Car still wouldn't turn over.

After about an hour. I tried to crank it again, it turned on for a second before shutting off. Now the cooling fan remained on. I plugged in the code reader and it now read P0117.

Luckily AAA came by quickly and I was able to tow her home...

This is typical thermostat/engine temp sensor failure, right? I just got my long T40 and temp sensor since I wanted to make sure I had that when I went through the whole fuel pump fiasco. Is there anything else I should be doing besides the thermostat and the temp sensor while I'm there? I bought a thermostat when I got the car but never put it in... That radiator hose looks a little spongy... Maybe it's time to face the heater hose/heater core job that I need to do... hmmm...

Post by **abscate** » 21 Feb 2016, 20:19

Your no-start ( not a no-crank) is probably something else

Time to get systematic about troubleshooting. I don't think that leak is the problem

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 21 Feb 2016, 20:28

abscate wrote:Your no-start ( not a no-crank) is probably something else

Time to get systematic about troubleshooting. I don't think that leak is the problem

What's the opposite of "music to my ears"? Man... I was really hoping you'd say, yep, just swap out those pieces and you're good to go.

I need to look for continuity of circuits, grounds, resistances, and stuff like that, right? IS coolant coming out of the sensors indicative of a bigger problem?

I have noticed that the cranking (the actual turning over) as the car turns on is seeming to take a second or two longer than it did before the fuel pump went out... I just figured the Hella just doesn't work as well as the Bosch. Hmmmm... Thanks abscate.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 22 Feb 2016, 15:16

abscate, you were right! So I spent the afternoon today swapping out the original thermostat with a new Wahler from FCP. The OEM thermostat looks like it go another 160k. Thank you all for suggesting a long T40, and for the headsup on using old water pump bolts as replacements. I wish I'd had the foresight to do this sooner...

The engine temp sensor is, of course, a different thing. It was green, leaky, and one connector was green inside. By the way, using the 19mm wrench and connecting a screwdriver to it in order to screw it down was such a cool bit of physics. I read that somewhere here so thanks for that, too. I had ignorantly thought this would magically fix things, it did not. Car is still not starting.

Just to go over a few things:
1. battery was charged and was reading close to 13AMPS when I plugged it back in
2. fuel pump is humming away
3. gas tank is 3/8ths full
4. code reader has no data (getting a better one today and will try to get data from the computer and will post)
5. I put in an 87 degree Wahler thermostat, that's OK, right?
6. FAE Coolant Fan Temperature Switch installed (yes, I know, it's not OEM!)
and 7. this is the sound I'm getting as I crank the engine...

I am posting this because, well, this sound is totally different from the cranks of before. This isn't cranking over. Did I,
- fry the starter?
- fry a crank or cam sensor?

I know I have to check the ohms on those sensors... Any other suggestions? What causes the car to go from that gutteral crank sound (the sound you get right before the car turns over) to this high-pitched whiney crank sound? Thanks!

Post by **phils94850** » 22 Feb 2016, 15:39

I hate to say this but it sounds like it has no compression when your cranking it over. I would make sure the timing belt is moving while cranking the engine, then I would do a compression check.

Post by **misha** » 22 Feb 2016, 15:55

You have codes for ECT sensor.P0116 & P0117 are both for ect.
The car cranks.It will not start without a proper input from ect.
Replace ect,since it's obviously in fault for both... visual and scanned....and we can proceed further.
Oem ect is the only way or at least Vernet.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 22 Feb 2016, 15:55

phils94850 wrote:I hate to say this but it sounds like it has no compression when your cranking it over. I would make sure the timing belt is moving while cranking the engine, then I would do a compression check.

phils94850, really?

What might cause the engine lose compression so quickly? I was so shocked by this "crank" so anemic, lackluster, lifeless... Nothing like before.

You say something about the timing belt... I replaced it about three thousand miles ago. (Went with all Volvo parts.)

Whenever we drive around, about two hours, the car develops this weird little sound, of plastic rattling. I have tried to recreate the sound when the car has only been on for fifteen minutes (by barreling over bumps, putting that all-Gabriel ride to the test) and I cannot do so. But when the car is two hours hot, going over the slightest of bumps will cause the rattle. I noticed that the tensioner was pointing to the hot side the other day when the engine was cold. So I readjusted it. Now, the tensioner goes all the way to the hot side when the car is hot. And today, when the engine was cool, it was pointing to the cool side. I think it's rubbing against a piece of plastic there. (I cracked the lower timing belt cover a little when I did the work.) Part of me thinks I should just replace the tensioner and get it right from the get... But that's me throwing new parts at stuff. NO way I could've messed up the tensioner by adjusting and readjusting it, right?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 22 Feb 2016, 16:02

misha wrote:You have codes for ECT sensor.P0116 & P0117 are both for ect.
The car cranks.It will not start without a proper input from ect.
Replace ect,since it's obviously in fault for both... visual and scanned....and we can proceed further.
Oem ect is the only way or at least Vernet.

Hey misha,
I put this in https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -9186486-1. It's a coolant fan temperature switch, by FAE from FCP. Is that the piece you're referring to? I did change it. (I left it out of my list, sorry!)

Post by **phils94850** » 22 Feb 2016, 16:04

As Misha says the car wont start without input from the ECT. I would fix that issue first.
It sounds like the tensioner is working as it should. Again, i would pull the timing cover and crank the engine over to make sure everything is as it should be. It just sounds like it has no compression to me, i pray im wrong, im just going off what im hearing. If everything is ok timing belt wise, you can squirt a little starting fluid in there and see if it tries to fire, if not, then i would check for spark while cranking over. If you have spark and fuel then id check compression.

Post by **phils94850** » 22 Feb 2016, 16:06

Did you clear the codes after installing the new ECT ? I believe thats the one misha is talking about, it should be the one next to the thermostat housing.