ETM Question

sebu06 · Post by **sebu06** » 21 Apr 2016, 01:59

Hi,
I already posted a question about my ETM in the forum 'Dons ETM room' - but since that forum doesn't seem to be too active, I would like to post it here again, since I was thinking about sending my ETM in and I would like to know if it's worth a shot. So here are my posts in that thread (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 12&t=75368)

after my throttle had idling issues in the past months (uneven idle, rps fluctuating with high frequency, but only 50-100 rps), it suddenly became worse (rps fluctuating with low frequency but 400-500 rps). At this point my ETS light came on. I tried cleaning the ETS with LiquiMoly throttle body cleaner, even though it already looked relativly clear. After resetting the error, the ETS light was gone and I was able to drive the car normally. A few days later, the light came back and nothing happens when I press the accelerator pedal. (Is this the limp home mode or my ETS totally failing?)

I read out the error codes and got the following:
ECM-532D MIL requested by throttle unit - Faulty signal
ECM-9190 Throttle Position (TP) - Faulty current

The position of the potentiometers are in indle 12.53 and 14.28 degrees. Since I don't have the software update, I cannot do the test of the throttle body. Can I simply move it by hand and check the live values?

Some time ago I thought that the rough idle got better after charging the battery. I changed the govenor of the alternator and the battery. I get 12.5 volts with the engine turned off and 14.0 volts in indle. The vida freeze frame information shows a voltage of 11.7 volts. Maybe it saved the error code during engine startup? The live value for the voltage are the same as measured at the battery terminals.

I measured the voltages and I got the following:
Battery: 12.27 V
Plug of ETS: 11.97 V
Pin5 / positive lead of battery: 12.07 V
Fuse / negative lead of battery: 12.13 V

Is that OK? I realised that the engine does not react to the accelerator pedal, because the throttle is somehow stuck in the fully closed position. If I 'break it loose' by hand, the engine will start, rev up, even though idling very uneven. I was not able to read out other error codes. After turning off the engine and turning it back on, the throttle is stuck again...

Thanks in advance,
Sebastian

Post by **doublebug** » 21 Apr 2016, 04:52

you need new ETM.

sebu06 · Post by **sebu06** » 21 Apr 2016, 06:20

OK, but I would rather like to know what's the issue with my old one - are the potentiometers failing? Why don't I get an error code for that? Do I need a new ETM or can I send it in to ECU or XeMODeX?

Best,
Sebastian

Post by **doublebug** » 21 Apr 2016, 07:06

sebu06 wrote:Do I need a new ETM or can I send it in to ECU or XeMODeX?

Let's wait for XeMODeX guys to answer that.

TonyatXeMODeX · Post by **TonyatXeMODeX** » 21 Apr 2016, 08:23

Hello Sebastian,
There is a junction point, located in the wiring harness below the main fuse box, that distributes the same power supply to the ETM to 3 other areas ( accelerator pedal, AC relay, and the Trans Module). It is expected to have a slight difference in voltage readings between the fuse and the ETM connector but anything below 12v will cause a problem in performance of the ETM. Assuming there is no contact resistance in the wiring or connector, I recommend that you follow our ETM flow chart and pay special attention to the fuse test portion. Let me how the throttle reacts when fuse#2 is reinserted, does it click twice? does it chatter? or is there no response at all? Let me know your results. http://xemodex.com/us/knowledgebase/etm ... 1999-2004/

Thanks,
Tony

sebu06 · Post by **sebu06** » 21 Apr 2016, 09:37

Hi,
I followed that flow chart - the results were in the post above:

Battery: 12.27 V
Plug of ETS: 11.97 V
Pin5 / positive lead of battery: 12.07 V
Fuse / negative lead of battery: 12.13 V

When I insert the fuse I can hear a click, but no whine. I will try it again in the afternoon and see if I can hear a second click.

And thanks for your help.

Best,
Sebastian

sebu06 · Post by **sebu06** » 21 Apr 2016, 10:23

Hi,
I've just checked, there is a clicking noise, but I doubt that it is coming from the throttle. There is definitely no whine. The flap is not moving after I plug in the fuse - should it move during initialisation?

Best,
Sebastian

TonyatXeMODeX · Post by **TonyatXeMODeX** » 21 Apr 2016, 13:27

Yes the throttle plate should move from a slightly opened position to a closed position as soon as power is applied. Then whine for approx. 6-12 seconds and then click back to the slightly opened position. If the throttle plate is not moving and you verified proper voltage and ground then the ETM is faulty.

Regards,
Tony

sebu06 · Post by **sebu06** » 21 Apr 2016, 15:53

But if I hit the accelerator with running engine, it will operate the throttle. Might it be a reason, that the battery voltage is too low, so the initialisation fails, but it will operate as soon as the engine is started? If so, I would connect jump wires to get 14V before starting the engine and repeat the check...

TonyatXeMODeX · Post by **TonyatXeMODeX** » 22 Apr 2016, 06:41

Make sure that there is no debris that is causing the throttle plate to bind in the closed position, clean if required. Then run a secondary power supply that bypasses the ETM relay, to the ETM connector pin#6 and repeat the ETM initialization test.

Regards,
Tony