P0017 Code on '99 C70

Cammyron · Post by **Cammyron** » 23 Aug 2016, 22:13

Hi Guys,

I had some recent problems with a noisy pulley (see https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=76776) but that is all fixed now after replacing the tensioner pulley.

It has been running fine, but this morning it threw up a CEL. I hooked up my OBD II dongle and read out the codes and got a P0017 saying the exhust cam was out of position. I reset the code, restarted the car and it went away. Drove around for an hour with no problems but it has now come back. It runs fine, not rough, easy to start, fuel economy doesn't seem to be effected.

I have checked the alignment of the timing marks and they seem fine. I have tested the continuity of the VVT solenoid and it reads out at 4 ohm (which i understand is fine).

Short of pulling everythign off and resetting the timing (which doesn't seem to be out) is there anything else i can do?

Looking at the data coming from the OBD II the timing advance is reading out between 20 degrees and 0. What range should it be in?

Cheers

Cam

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 24 Aug 2016, 09:00

Do you know if the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor are working?
I just had a huge issue with the VVT on my cousin's 1999 S70, and I ended up replacing the CVVT hub/exhaust cam gear assembly. I don't think that's your issue, though, because your car still runs.
Trust me, if your timing was out, you would know. The crank should line up with the two marked teeth on each side of the alignment mark on the oil pump, and it seems you have found the camshaft alignment marks. You didn't remove the timing belt, did you?

Cammyron · Post by **Cammyron** » 24 Aug 2016, 15:40

How do I check the sensors?

I changed over the tensioner in the end but just pulled the old one off, kept the belt tight, and slipped the new one in. So it can't of gone out of timing.

Given the issues with the previous tensioner (it had spun around a bit) is it possible for too much or too little tension to cause the vvt Cam to move out of its natural position given it is sprung? Or does that require the solenoid doing stuff as well to allow it to move?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 24 Aug 2016, 16:10

The easiest way to check the sensors is to swap them out for a spare if you have one, but I think it's possible with a multimeter.
I'm not positive that that the tension being off could cause the VVT cam to slip, but anything's possible. Do you notice any clicking noise from the VVT cam?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 Aug 2016, 17:13

The CVVT preload must be set when you change the tensioner. It is a simple process.

Rotate the engine clockwise by hand to the timing marks and then continue an additional 90 degrees clockwise.
Rotate the engine back to the marks counterclockwise.
Loosen then tensioner and remove the timing belt from the exhaust cam.
As you put the timing belt back on the exhaust cam sprocket rotate the sprocket (not the center hub) back to the timing marks.

From there reset the tension and rotate a couple of revolutions clockwise by hand to double check the marks and to touch up the tensioner (make sure it is in the window).

Just because the timing marks are correct doesn't mean the preload on the CVVT is correct.

...Lee

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 24 Aug 2016, 17:37

I was going to add that as well. The VVT cam will look slightly retarded when you remove the belt, and you will need to rotate that sprocket clockwise to the mark BEFORE you route the belt. If that step is not done, you will definitely get a code, if you can even get it to start.
Though it's not necessary, this process is much easier with the cams locked from the rear. That way you don't accidentally advance the whole exhaust camshaft. Ask me how I know...

Cammyron · Post by **Cammyron** » 24 Aug 2016, 19:56

Thanks Lee. So even though I didn't take the belt off I still need to do the pretension bit?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 Aug 2016, 21:11

I go through the preload procedure any time that the belt is loose. It is a very quick and easy procedure to do and then you know it is correct. In theory it shouldn't need to be done if the belt never left any sprocket but the cams want to rock back when the tension is released. When you are done the bolts between the hub and the sprocket should not be at either limit. The bolts typically won't be exactly centered in the slots and that is OK so long as they aren't at either stop.

...Lee

Cammyron · Post by **Cammyron** » 24 Aug 2016, 21:16

Ah ok. Not with the car now but pretty sure the bolts on the exhaust Cam are at the end of the slot.

Is there any way of doing this without having to Jack the car up, remove the wheel and turn the crank? If I can manage to get on to the crank from the top is that good enough?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 25 Aug 2016, 07:18

I doubt you'll be able to access the crank without jacking up the car. I guess you could try from the top, but I don't think it would work.

Those bolts are probably almost at the end, but not on the very limit. Even so, I don't know that it really makes a difference.