1999 V70 XC Crank no start, new ECT! Topic is solved

corvol · Post by **corvol** » 12 Nov 2016, 14:15

Hello,

I'm having issues with my 1999 V70xc turbo starting, it has 180,000 miles. I have been reading through the forum for the last few days and cant seem to figure it out.

What I have tried and know so far:
1. I am getting fuel and pressure at the fuel rail.
2. I have tested all plugs and coils and am getting spark
3. I have cleaned PTC nipple.
4. I have done the PCV test and have determined that system DOES needs to be cleaned. I get smoke at dipstick and I can inflate a rubber clove at oil cap.
5. It cranks strong and if I continue to keep it cranked over it will eventually start catching and I can usually get it to start. But it takes probably a minute or more.
6. I have not done a compression test.
7. I have looked into testing camshaft and crankshaft position sensors but wouldn't I NOT get spark at plugs if those sensors were bad?

So I know I need to do the PCV but would that keep the car from starting? Before I dig into that project I want to make sure there isn't something else I'm missing. Also as stated above I haven't ruled out compression but not sure if that would cause it to behave as it does.
Any help of course would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Sean

Post by **abscate** » 12 Nov 2016, 14:38

Probably a really big vacuum leak somewhere - like a torn house, loose intake manifold or the like

Post by **rspi** » 12 Nov 2016, 18:59

Follow the codes???

corvol · Post by **corvol** » 02 Dec 2016, 23:37

So I finally had more time to work on the Volvo. Some of the work I have done is clean the PCV system, replace intake manifold gasket, clean throttle body and replace gasket.

Fuel Pressure:
I tested the fuel pressure with a gauge this time. I am consistently getting 50 psi when I turn the key to the on position and it goes up quickly. I did get the car to start a few times today and at idle the fuel pressure was about 57 psi. From what I have read that is where it should be on turbos. I noticed that the fuel pressure hardly changed at all when accelerating. I also watched the pressure after the car was off and it held at 50 psi for over 30 minutes and was still at 30 psi over 1 hour later.

Compression:
I tested the compression and got 119 to 120 psi on all cylinders. This was a dry test, I didn't run a wet test. I'm not sure what the psi should be but it was very consistent between all cylinders.

Spark:
As noted in my original post I was getting good spark on all plugs but may re-test those again.

So at this point I feel like I have ruled out all the major components and not sure where to go.

The only coded I have are O2 Sensor (bank 1, sen 2) and P1332. I cleared those codes (which may have been a mistake; my thought in clearing the codes was that if there was an issue it would throw the code again) and now no other codes are showing up after trying to start it today and actually getting it started a few times and driving it around.

After getting it to run a few times it is now consistently cranking but not starting.

Thanks!

Post by **abscate** » 03 Dec 2016, 00:23

Test the coolant sensor (ECT) for the right resistance if that goes bad you won't get good starting.

When you get the no-start a shot of ether ( starting fluid) can help diagnose fuel vs ignition problems

Tough one! Keep at it!

More thoughts ..how old are the plugs? What does the gap look like?

corvol · Post by **corvol** » 08 Dec 2016, 23:46

I tested the ECT and got 10.5 k ohms when the temperature was about 35 degrees F. Tested it two other times and got readings of 7.5 k ohms at about 35 degrees as well. From what I have read on the forum these are too high of readings so I may have a bad sensor. I am going to replace thermostat and ECT tomorrow and see where that gets me. I have noticed since this problem began that the temperature gauge never raises to the half way mark but stays at about 1/4. Not sure if this could be related to ECT and/or thermostat.

I originally tried starting car with starting fluid and it didn't do anything to help, which points to ignition problem.

One of the first things I did was put in brand new Bosch plugs.

Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 09 Dec 2016, 05:37

Make sure you are using the 1999 ECT resistance chart, it's different than the P80. I think it's cross referenced in my 1999 maintenance log in that forum '1999 V70 T5'

The ECT could have flooded the engine to the point of a nostart but that does point to ignition.

Really definitive test. Pull plugs, crank engine for 15 seconds to clear. Add ether direct to cylinders. Replace plugs

Test for fire in the hole!

corvol · Post by **corvol** » 09 Dec 2016, 17:49

Bought a new ECT sensor and tested resistance on the new one and my old one at 40 degrees. New one read 3.5 k ohms, old one reads 9.5 k ohms. Replaced sensor, added coolant and she fired right up!! I have started it several times throughout the day and no problems. Must have been a bad sensor. I went for a 20 minute test drive and no problems except for a new check engine light, P0137 O2 sensor.

Thanks for your help guys and abscat for turning me on to the ECT. Now more forum reading for the O2 sensor issue.

Post by **abscate** » 10 Dec 2016, 14:07

Link to ECT measurements

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... ce#p362943

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 11 Dec 2016, 08:30

Just a footnote. I've consistently had problems similar to what's mentioned here as well as a funky temperature gage on my dash from non- Volvo ECTs. On occasion I thought things were fine but a month or two later things will start acting wonky again. Now I only buy Volvo branded ECT's for all of our Volvos.